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I have a BPI roll crimping tool and I recently bought one from the Reloaders Network with 4 rollers. That one is far better. Puts a taper on the crimp whereas the BPI crimped don’t. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...55f8c806c7.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...6f962c41b2.jpg
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My BPI tool puts a taper on the outside of the hull but the end is square. I got the one off Reloaders Network and it is best of both worlds.
Left one is factory Right is BPI tool.
Randy
Read this whole thread. Good stuff and info here.
What I see is people using roll crimps and no wad under on their Lyman 525 sabot slugs.
I have the mold and the book says "Use fold crimp only"
Is either OK and do both perform the same?
Keith
I was pretty sure the Lyman shotgun manual has both fold crimp and roll crimp data. It wont cause any danger to roll crimp, roll crimps generally produced slightly lower pressures, but it's not a huge difference.Quote:
Originally Posted by Keith
I used to roll crimp the 525’s. Never got any accuracy worth a damn.
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I wonder if it doesn't pinch up on the wad. Maybe an overshot card would help. I prefer a fold crimp on flat slugs like that, they crimp nice.Quote:
Originally Posted by Blood Trail
Thanks. I am a bit leery of putting an overshot wad over a slug in case it got stuck or something.
I will stick to the fold crimp.
I have a RB mold coming .678 to go in the Federal 12S3 wads I have. I think I remember Longbow puts a roll crimp over them with no overshot wad. My manual does not cover that. Roll crimps for round ball not folds. Correct or not?
So far, I haven’t had any problems with overshot cards over slugs, although I haven’t done it in a while. I’ve tried traditions cardboard OS cards as well as the frangible plastic ones.Quote:
Originally Posted by Keith
As far as crimping RB’s, you should be able to do both.
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Great. Thanks.
On my Round Ball loads I just fold them as they are loaded just like my Standard Trap Loads on the same machine.
Randy
You have to use an extremely light touch with skiving a shell.
Like knocking the sharp edge off a brass shell.
You can squeeze a shell mouth in your fingers and tell if its heavy ,light or average.
Most are average.
Range pickups vary.
Toss to the side, the ones that aren't right.
That's among the benefits of reloading your own.
Don't use a shell that is questionable.
In cold weather, keep a hot plate with a coffee pot nearby.
Also, use the hot plate to warm your roll crimper, just a little.
It works, but not if you have a plastic crimper of course.
.........
I thought I would add some more thoughts and techniques I have found success with.
First Previously Roll Crimped Hulls re-crimp better than fold crimped hills. New hulls work the best. You can recondition Previously Roll Crimped hulls by using a heat gun and one of the tapered spuds. You push the hull onto the hull and let the drill rotate the whole mass while aiming the heat gun at it. The results are a perfectly round hull. See before and after pic below.
Second Pre-Heating the tool with a heat gun makes the first hull come out nice instead of using the tool to heat itself.
Next some Vaseline in the tool helps produce a nice smooth Crimp.
150-200 rpms on the tool seems to work best.
Overall stack height doesn't matter. The Crimp will go down until it stops, if you force it to go farther is will leave a little crease just below the top of the crimp. You have to push much harder on the quill to do that. You go down until you think you are there, then check the hull to see if the payload moves if so give it a little more until the payload stays put.
I can start with fresh hulls or my Reconditioned Federal Blue Hulls (pick up everyone you see as they are excellent!) and do 25 perfect crimps in a row no sweat. All the hulls are loaded at once, and then crimped all at once. You need to keep the tool hot and running thruout the whole sequence.
This is what I've been doing on my Slugs and Buckshot Loads and the results have been as close to factory as I think is possible.
Randy
OK; another tidbit that works better than I thought.
Today I was at Home Depot in the Electrical Section where the Big Fuses are, and I saw this neato Fuse Puller. Someone had mentioned Fuse Pullers as excellent Hull Vises on another thread recently, and this one stuck in my head. $10.52 out the door. It said it was good on fuses from 13/32" to 13/16". 12 ga shotshells are really close to 13/16 on the OD and this thing fits them perfectly !
I had mentioned making my own hull holder out of plywood earlier but hulls will rotate in my tool if you don't bare down on it pretty hard.
I have to tell you this tool is far superior and grips the hulls tight without deforming them in any way. For $10 you can't go wrong.
It is a "Bussman Fuse Puller" made by the Eaton Company.
Randy
I have started to load new .410 hulls with "00" buck. Made an over shot card from sheet plastic, think thin cutting sheets. Picked up the roll crimper from reloaders network . I use was to lube with, works well for me.Attachment 274183Attachment 274184Attachment 274185
Here’s my second hull I tried with a quad pin 10 gauge roller from the reloaders network...
https://i.imgur.com/61DBxvj.jpg
I had to get the roller heated up enough from the first one to get my mojo on. I’m going to have to make a shell holder because holding onto it while running a cordless drill with no RPM limiter is a challenge to get an even crimp along with my hands getting sore pretty quick. But it sure looks nice!
Ok I am having trouble will my roll crimps not being tapered on the outside of my hulls. They actually have a ridge on the outside. It doesn't have any feeding issues but doesn't look right. Am I leaving to much material to roll on top of the OS wad? I have been using new Fiocchi hulls with a 2 pin roller.
The outside taper should be built into the tool. Try going a little deeper.
If this is a BPI two pin tool the crimp should look like this. The first two pics were with a BPI tool and you can see the outside taper and then the flat crimp on the top edge.
The third pic shows two shells I took apart to see what was inside, and then put into new hulls with the BPI Crimp Tool. The untouched factory rounds were done with a RN tools or so they said. Both Brenneke and Lightfield load their ammo into new Rio Hulls and the ones I used were exact duplicates of the factory ones.
The last pic is of a Federal Blue Hull that I loaded with a Lee Slug and crimped with the RN tool. You can see the radius on the front.
Randy
I went out today and tried 40 yards and 50 yards with my same RST hulls using 692 grains of BPI #6’s and 100 grains of Fg. The only difference was I roll crimped them this time VS just gluing in an over shot card.
I had 12 hits in my turkey head target at 40 yards and only 5 hits at 50 yards. I then tried the same load but in a federal hull. I had 13 hits at 40 yards. I put a pop can behind my 50 yard target. The #6 BPI nickel plated pellets passed through the cardboard box my target was stapled to and then completely through the pop can I placed in the box to test for penetration. I don’t plan on taking a 50 a yard shot but if for some reason my bird hangs up at 40 yards I won’t hesitate to shoot it. I can tell you if that was a real bird at 50 yards today it would have been dead as a door nail IMO. One pellet to the brain and one in the neck vertebrae. Same with the RST hull 40 yard shot. I guess I just get lucky a lot with a pellet to the brain.
My first target i shot with a roll crimp RST hull at 40 yards...
https://i.imgur.com/mErXePO.jpg
My second shot with the same load at 50 yards...
https://i.imgur.com/mLoJ4lv.jpg
And here was my last test at 40 yards with the same load but with a federal hull...
https://i.imgur.com/If2YL78.jpg
I must have had a “hot” pellet or piece of powder melt part of one of my RST cases. Here is picture of the fired hulls after I slid them onto my dowel and heated the crimps with a heat gun to straighten them out...
https://i.imgur.com/ZlZBRns.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/s6LoIP5.jpg
When I inspected it the hole did not burn all the way through but I took the shell out of service just to be safe. The other two cases look great yet. I might order some brass case in the near future.
So in the future if I didn’t burn a hole completely through a case I would assume I can still load it again?
3B: now Recon those Hulls with a Tapered Spud and Heat Gun. They will roll crimp again just like the first time.
Randy