After removing the two pins that fasten the trigger guard to the receiver, do the pins fit tight enough on reassembly so they won't work loose? I haven't decided to open this thing up yet and am real apprehensive about doing an action job to it.
MJ
Printable View
After removing the two pins that fasten the trigger guard to the receiver, do the pins fit tight enough on reassembly so they won't work loose? I haven't decided to open this thing up yet and am real apprehensive about doing an action job to it.
MJ
Sure they do...my handi rifle has been apart many times for cleaning and one time for the trigger job. Make sure you go the right way when driving the pins out, there are flutes on one end of the pin, those need to leave first and come in last.
Never had a problem with anything shooting loose.
They drive out to the left side. You can probably see the splines if you look close. Drive it out from the opposite side. For the trigger, and locking bar assemblies you'll find it much easier to reassemble the action if you make a slave pin the same diameter as the large trigger pin, and just a hair shorter than thetrigger guard part that goes up inside the frame. All of the large pins are the same diameter. P.M. me if you want, I'll see if I can help.
Here ya go: http://www.perkloafm.com/downloads2.html You want "Handi-Rifle Trigger Work, Part 1." Pg 3 has slave pin info. I made mine out of a big nail--can't remember what size. You DO NOT want to pull the trigger assembly without a slave pin inside it!!!!!
Thanks... so you all think an action job to the H-R is worth the effort? I don't even blink when considering a 336 action job but 336 disassembly is almost a no-brainer. I looked at all those darn pins in the H-R's receiver last night and decided to shoot some jojoba oil in the hammer sear area with a hypo while the hammer was cocked in hopes that'll noticeably smooth things up. After dry firing about 25 times with a couple mls of jojoba floatin' around in there, it seems to have helped minimally. I'm pretty sure the pull weight didn't change but it seems a little smoother now.
MJ
MJ, as far as being worth the effort, it just all depends on how your action is now. The last two H&R's I have picked up have had excellent triggers, in fact, one was almost too light. Be very, very careful, work very slowly, I understand it is easy to take off too much material. As Jr1942 pointed out, be sure and make a slave pin, it will make the job a lot easier. Also, that AFM link that he provides above should give you all the info you need to do a first-class trigger job. Good Luck!
Lathesmith
Unless I see thinks wrongly, It isn't necessary to remove hardly any (pardon my grammar) metal before you can get problems. You can actually make the trigger too "hair" just by polishing too much. The geometry of the trigger will however- flat unload if you do increase the angle of the bearing surface at all. IMHO the angle is too big in stock condition. But I love em anyway!
P.S. You probably will never get it back together without the slave pin! One of mine you needed a tractor to fire. The other two weren't as bad, but trigger jobs were necessary still.
You CAN get it together without a slave pin. Be prepared for elevated blood pressure, a few #%#^ words and maybe a bit of blood and a strange desire to throw the whole thing out the window!!
Throw it my way. I got the slaves and love the Handi-Rifle.
Gotta buddy with a Handi and sent it to NEF they dropped the trigger pull to 10 oz. No joke! It is obscenely light. I have a Handi in 45/70, and the trigger is a bit too heavy for me. Would like to get it lower. I hear NEF won't do triggers anymore.
I did a Rossi .357 single shot a few years ago. They are almost identical to the Handi's and used the link above. I got a real nice 2 lb trigger on mine pretty easily. The Rossi was on a .410 frame and not as bulky as the Handi.
Yes, you don't want to get the trigger too light or it won't pull through enough to move the transfer bar out of the way.
I have found that with no other changes, swapping the original monster truck trigger return spring for one in a ballpoint pen made for a very nice trigger. This was years ago, all my newer Handis have nice triggers from the factory.
-Nobade
greetings,
I purchased a frame from another site the trigger is so light a GNAT fart cant set it off, Anyway to reverse the process with the parts that are in it now ?
casca
If the trigger return spring is too light you can replace it with a heavier one. If the sear engagement surfaces have been cut you can buy new parts from Brownells to make it back where it is supposed to be.Quote:
Originally Posted by casca
-Nobade
ALSO---you can go to www.go2gbo.com as they have a very thourogh "handi-rifle" section and all of the nesessary "stickies" for performing just about any maintenance on these firearms. Good luck. God Bless to all and yours.
Goofyoldfart <aka Goofy, Godfrey and GOF>
I bought my 18yr old daughter (5'0" and 97lbs) a 7mm-08 handi rifle that has a trigger that needs a deadblow hammer to set it off. From what I've read (aka small parts) and the current state of my arthritis I was considering the toothpaste method. I might go so far as to use some rouge/alcohol injected into the trigger group and simply dryfire it a few times with a snapcap in. Of course it would get an oil bath afterwards. It has worked before :)
YES!Quote:
Originally Posted by Marlin Junky
there are only 5 or so parts in there. It's really easy to get in and out. Especially with the guide from above. Go for it, don't look back.