Whats wrong with set triggers

Hello everyone,

I think that I have a problem with the set triggers in my CVA Mountain Rifle.
I can cock the hammer and pull the front trigger and it will fire. (hard, but still fire)
I can not set the rear trigger without first cocking the hammer to full cock position. Then I still have to apply pressure to the front trigger (forward) before I can set the trigger. I do hear the audible click when it sets. Then the front trigger is easy to fire with.
Doesn't the front trigger supposed to move forward by itself when the rear trigger is set?
Was wondering if I need to adjust something to correct this.

Take the trigger mechanism out of the rifle and you should be able to see what is happening with it. Then you'll know how to proceed. Probably just an adjustment, but you need to find out. If the trigger works outside of the stock then examine the inletting to see if it's binding on the wood.

Make sure there is a little free play with the trigger on Both Full and Half cock.Sometimes when a rifle is Re assembled the trigger plate is tightened too much making the trigger and sear touch each other.If this occurs it will be necessary to shim out the trigger plate in order to create that important free play of the trigger.

I had a CVA Hawkins that had the set trigger jammed because of poor inletting, just shaved the offending wood out of the way with a pocket knife and it worked great. The set trigger was way out of adjustment also probably because the PO didn't realize the root of the problem. Adjusting the set trigger wasn't hard to do but I'm dammed if I can remember how I did it. Fun getting old ain't it.

Adjust the set screws,
https://www.frontiermuzzleloading.co...+owners+manual

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Col4570

Make sure there is a little free play with the trigger on Both Full and Half cock.Sometimes when a rifle is Re assembled the trigger plate is tightened too much making the trigger and sear touch each other.If this occurs it will be necessary to shim out the trigger plate in order to create that important free play of the trigger.

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If it was mine this (above from Col4570) is what the problem would be - first off shim the triggerplate that should do it - if that dont get it you may need to bend the sear bar a little.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Eddie2002

I had a CVA Hawkins that had the set trigger jammed because of poor inletting, just shaved the offending wood out of the way with a pocket knife and it worked great. The set trigger was way out of adjustment also probably because the PO didn't realize the root of the problem. Adjusting the set trigger wasn't hard to do but I'm dammed if I can remember how I did it. Fun getting old ain't it.

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Theres two screws bottom side of the trigger plate 1) the bigger one with a slotted head adds spring tension to the rear trigger when it releases 2) little one with no head controls depth of engagement of the front trigger in the rear one - you will see the front trigger move to the rear as you lessen engagement (lighten trigger) and move forward as you deepen it (heavier trigger) - for this all to work you must have a smidge of clearance from both trigger plates to the lock sear and you need to establish that clearance with the front trigger set as light as possible - thats where that front trigger plate is at is most height. ......ahhh didnt see the link from Frontier till I typed this ......so

The note about removing the trigger is okay as it allows you to see what does what. You should be able to set the trigger w/o it being in the rifle and then test the front trigger to see how it releases. Be careful sometimes the front trigger will snap back at your finger depending on who makes it? It could be a crud build up causing the change as I pull mine yearly although some shooters pull the trigger and also hammer after every match. I blast mine with carb spray cleaner to clean out the hidden build up then soaking it with Rem Oil and let drip off excess. I would not recommend taking it apart.
John