Marlin 336 35 Rem. Ballard - Which bullet?

So I got a 1951 waffle top Marlin 336 SC in 35 Remington. Looks like I can’t use Lyman’s 358430 200 grain as when I seat it out far enough so I don’t get the marlin double feed jam, the front bearing surface tries to engrave into the rifling. I will single fire the rest I loaded with the bullet pushed into a 2.2 OAL. I just loaded lyman’s 358311 160 round nose 38 special and at 2.3 plus oal, it feeds. Hard cast with 10 grains unique, I’ll see how these shoot.

So what I am wanting is a fun shooting economical plinking load that shoots flat enough out to 100 yards. Unique and a plain base bullet is my goal. But if needed a proper lead bullet for 35 Remington ( rcbs, Lyman or Lee) even if gas checked will be fine. Thanks ahead of time.

It's hard to beat the RCBS 200, it was made for your combo.

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Originally Posted by Nobade

It's hard to beat the RCBS 200, it was made for your combo.

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Are you shooting it and if so, what’s your load? Thanks

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Originally Posted by smkummer

Are you shooting it and if so, what’s your load? Thanks

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My 336 has been rechambered to 358 win to clean up a damaged chamber, but yes I use that boolit or the ranch dog 190 over 1.9cc VV 10B101. (Similar to blue dot) for more power 3031 or 748 work well, but there are a ton of powders that do well in the 35 rem.

I am very fond of Lee's copy of the RCBS 200 grainer (which they also make in the 6 cavity). But man, if you are having to load to an exact length because of "Marlin jam #1" you need to fix the jam thing. I fixed mine by JB-welding a bit of metal to the bottom of the lifter so it comes up earlier and blocks the "following cartridge". Others have fixed it by slightly bending the lifter up so it rises earlier.

The Lyman boolit will work for you once you fix your Marlin jam thing. I still have that Lyman mould but don't use it anymore since getting that wonderful Lee 6-cavity.

In case you're interested, Marlin rifles had that jam fault at least from the beginning of the 336 line because they were still using old machining stuff dating to the early 1900's (or so I was told by a knowledgeable fellow). It is so common it is named "Marlin jam #1" (yeah, there is a #2 which I haven't experienced yet). I've had to do the "fix" to both a 1950 waffle-top and to a mid-80's carbine.

I have had good luck with the RCBS 38-162 swc and Lyman 356402 over SR4759.

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OK, I've been shooting MARLIN LEVERS since I was a kid. I currently have 5;
336-.35REM Late 1950's,
39D-1972,
1894C-.357 1982,
1894CB-.45COLT 1996,
1895CB-.45-70-1998
And I've had both pre-safety & post-safety 1894's in .44MAG, & a 336T-1984, but no safety.
I don't experience jams. Only the 1894CB has been worked on. And that was a cosmetic alteration to disguise the safety.
I have a buddy that has MANY MARLINS. He has 2 of the short run of 336CB in .30-30 & .33-55.
I have developed cast bullet loads that function perfectly(except for the .22) in all Calibers/Guns.

I have never heard of a "MARLIN Jam#1 or #2.
So what are they ?

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Originally Posted by Walks

I have never heard of a "MARLIN Jam#1 or #2.
So what are they ?

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Marlin jams happen when the carrier doesn't rise quick enough and you get a little bit of the following shell on the carrier along with the round that is supposed to be there. This prevents the carrier from lifting up the shell toward the chamber. The #1 jam happens to the 336 action because of a poor machining job, too much cut away and the carrier doesn't lift quite quick enough to block the following shell. People have been dealing with this by making the shells exactly the perfect length so the second shell can't get on the carrier but it is much nicer to deal with the lifter and then not have to worry about exactly perfect lengths.

Jam #2 is a similar jam but happens to the 1894 action because of wear. I've never had this one because I (as yet) don't have any of those rifles. When I googled "Marlin jam" all I got were the #2 jams, but I didn't pursue it very long.

There have to be some #1 fix directions out there, 'cause I once did one over on "Leverguns" (www.leverguns.com) and another fellow also showed his "bending fix" method also. But a little study of the action will show where the metal could be added to lift things quicker, which is what I did back in the ancient days before computers became useful.

A bent loading gate with also cause lock up and failure to feed.

http://kwk.us/pressures.htm
might want to reconsider shooting a 336 in a .358win

Leaning towards a lee 358-200RF now.

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Originally Posted by Pioneer2

http://kwk.us/pressures.htm
might want to reconsider shooting a 336 in a .358win

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I'll bet it's never had a factory shell in it.

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What if someone gets it when he's gone and doesn't know any better..........BOOM

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Originally Posted by Pioneer2

What if someone gets it when he's gone and doesn't know any better..........BOOM

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I cut the chamber .030" short so you can't do that. Trimmed the dies down to match, and load it to .35 rem ballistics. I wouldn't have done it but the chamber had a huge gouge in it from the factory, and couldn't be fired with standard pressure ammo. Well, it could once then you had to beat the case out with a rod. Must be why I got it so cheap... Works great now, and is a lot more accurate to boot.

Good thinking ........kinda like the .450 Marlin using a different belt location so regular magnum brass could not be used.It really just copied the .458x2" American and they were done up custom in converted Win 94 big bores.

I was able to bend my lifter just a wee bit and the jam is gone. It even feeds the Lyman 195 grain bullet seated to 2.2. I just loaded some new Lee 358-200 gas check bullets as well and off to the range tomorrow to see how they shoot.

I guess I must be lucky in my MARLINS.
My two 1894's have each had at least 15,000 rds apiece thru them without a hitch. I think the wear that supposed to cause jams wouldn't have shown up by now. I think perhaps this "jam 2" may be caused by poor ammo. I have always been very careful in my HANDLOADING Practices. Watching O.A.L, my 1894's will feed .38SPL & .45S&W, respectively.

Success. Early results with Lee’s copy of RCBS’s 358-200 GC bullet is a success. Got it sighted in at 50 yards so it was time for a 12” metal plate at 100 which was easy. Lyman’s 195 grain 358430 wasn’t as accurate with the same charge of 12 grains unique. I should be getting about 1500 FPS and ran out of ammo before I tried 200 yards. My goal will be to have it sighted in at 100 use a little hold over for a 200 yard 24” plate. I know I can use a slower powder to go faster for flatter shooting and I may. But right now the recoil is just right with out being excessive. There is just something about a smooth lever gun and “tinging” steel.

I've had great success with 358429 & am trying 358432 and rcbs 35-200, no GC. For short range plinking.