Lyman 311466 problem and question...

I have had this mould for 20+ years, I really love it and it shoot great in spite of the issue it has. It is not concentric! When I lube and size, 2 opposing sides look great and the other 2 are almost squished to the point of not taking lube. They do take enough that it still works well in the old 03A3's and the Win 30-30. I have been thinking about finding someone to bore it out to a straight wall mould and using it for PC only... What do you all think about that? Is there anyone here that does that kind of work?

I too love the little 466it shoots great in my Rem 700 VS 308 BUT so does both of Lees 150gr bullets the 150 and the150 TL, for the $18-20.00they can be had for I can't see any advantage in playing with that mold, seriously both are tack drivers, IF you must have a 466Noe Makes an excellent copy,this is no slacker either http://noebulletmolds.com/NV/product...oducts_id=1249

What alloy?

What alloy temp?

Ladle or bottom pour?

I know there are many out there. I shoot a bunch of the FN 165's and have the NOE and Lyman moulds for them. I may end up replacing it, it has been the best shooter set out to the lands on the 03A3 with 2400. I do have the heavier Loverin and really like it in the 03A3 as well. It casts perfect every time.

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Originally Posted by mattw

SNIP...

I have been thinking about finding someone to bore it out to a straight wall mould and using it for PC only... What do you all think about that? Is there anyone here that does that kind of work?

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I've found that having a mold "Professionally" fixed or modified is cost prohibitive.
I'd suggest keep using it like it is (since you mentioned having success with it) or replace it with the NOE (as suggested by guicksylver).

ALSO, maybe there is a simple issue with the mold that could be corrected by you ...maybe give us more details like Larry is asking.

what does the mold look like?
What does the boolit look like BEFORE you lube it?

Pictures would help check the below thread and scroll down to Posting pictures using IMGUR

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...g-screen-shots


You could try casting some boolits out of linotype then try polishing the cavities gently squeezing the mole together. You'd get a little bigger cavities BUT I would hope the lube groves would even out more.

This is odd, I did reply to Larry... it did not show up.

So, again.
casting at 700ish, using a pid on an RCBS bottom pour. Alloy is 92-4-4 water dropped for rifles with gas check and white label lube, as best as I can weight and depending upon the alloy spreadsheet. I cast with numerous .30 moulds and do not have this problem. I can get pics this weekend, the mould is in good shape, the size die is fine. I have mic'ed it before sizing and it is a definite issue with the mould. More than anything, it just bugs the **** out of me! And... I am looking for a straight side mould for PC. Just kinda thought that chucking it square in a mill and opening up the cavity would not be a huge deal.

Let's see, the mold is out of round, but shoots great in your gun?
Is there a problem?

If you want a mold to PC, buy a Lee and have at it

Mike

Your casting looks good so eliminating that let's look at the mould.

Are the handles allowing the blocks to completely close?

Holding them closed with spruce plate open up to light you see no space between the blocks?

I can only assume Eric's Hollow point mold service could make your mold a "straight side mould for PC".
http://www.hollowpointmold.com/
He lists some fees for similar modifications

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Gas check or bevel base removal and/or rear drive band enlargement $35.00 setup per mold + $5.00 per cavity.

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Drive band enlargement of multiple bands $45.00 setup fee per mold + $5.00 per drive band enlarged.

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When you consider the cost of shipping, plus the return shipping, you'll likely have to spend $60 to $70 to get the work done.
Hence my comment about it being cost prohibitive.

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Originally Posted by JonB_in_Glencoe

I can only assume Eric's Hollow point mold service could make your mold a "straight side mould for PC".
http://www.hollowpointmold.com/
He lists some fees for similar modifications




When you consider the cost of shipping, plus the return shipping, you'll likely have to spend $60 to $70 to get the work done.
Hence my comment about it being cost prohibitive.

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SOMEIMES..just... sometimes the Lyman blocks can be out of alignment because the pins are not registering properly.. I've had several come through that way,by tapping the pins out one side or the other I have been able to b ring the mold back into alignment

I will try that as well, had not thought of that. I would think that would make the bullet bigger over all...

And another thought. You don't need a slick-sided boolit to use pc. I pc several of my boolits and I only have ones with standard lube grooves. I like them because they are so versatile, I can use waxy lube, tumble lube, or pc. Whatever strikes my fancy. Now, of course, if pc'ing a no lube groove bullet gives you the warm fuzzies, then follow your bliss. Happy casting.