Oven issues

I know for a fact that about every occupation knmown to man has someone who is proficient at it on this site.

My oven is no0t working correctly. It is not igniting.

The igniter is glowing brightly.
Only a small amount of gas seems to be reaching the burner. If I light the burner manually, the gas jets are tiny, and do not heat the oven very much.

The oven is a twenty year old Kenmore. From replacing an upper burner, I know it uses at least some Frigidaire parts.

As at least some gas is getting to the oven burner, I am figuring the igniter must be intact, as well as from the brightness of the glow. I had a cracked igniter on it once, and the symptoms were different.

I am thinking that the gas safety valve, apparently called the oven valve, could be bad? There is plenty of flame height on the burners, so I do not suspect the regulator as being bad.

Any suggestions as to where I should look, or which component may be the culprit? From the illustrations and the schematic, it is relatively simple.

Possibly a bad thermo couple, not showing the burner is lit and allowing gas to flow to burner

He has hot surface, no thermocouple. I would bet on the valve although if the ignitor has thinned enough it wouldn't draw enough amps to trigger the valve. Both parts are less than the cost of a service call.

Does the schematic show the thermostat, ignitor and gas valve all in series? Each wired to the next?

http://www.appliance411.com/faq/gas_...ems.shtml#glow

I have found with that glow bar system the glow bar deteriorates and gets red but not yellow to white like it should, as a precaution I always replace both the glow bar and the solenoid at the same time it saves getting called back in a few months.

Just look up your oven brand/type on youtube

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-RZtxSvOe-U

There are service techs and parts peddlers that show you how to isolate the faults and troubleshoot the malfunctions down to the individual components. I have used them to find a defective gas solenoid coil on a gas dryer in about 15 minutes. I replaced both coils on the solenoid for $14.

Yup, solenoid replacement fixed my gas dryer. Igniter comes on and then off as no gas.

Thank you all.

As at least some gas is getting to the burner, I figured the hotsurface should be passing current. But it is more of a yellow than a white, so it could be thinning.

Thank you for the advice on replacing both, it makes good sense to me. I do the same with some automotive systems, so I am familiar with the way that works. I will call the parts store today, see if they have them in stock.

Again, thank you!

I am making a different type of marking knife for woodworking, and need the oven to temper the blade after I harden it.

The hot surface igniter, HSI, doesn't conduct electricity well when cold but acts as a resistor. When it warms it has much less resistance. Your HSI is not getting hot enough to overcome the resistance so the valve isn't getting full voltage resulting in a partial open valve. Replace the HSI and it should work well.

I will replace the igniter first. It is in stock, and only a bit over $30. The gas valve is special order only, and over $180. I will only replace it if needed. :)

I will pay over the phone, and they will set it outside the door, when I tell them I am there to pick it up.

I replaced the igniter, and it is back in operation again. Thank you everyone for your help.

Thanks for letting us know!