Marlin 336 30-30 Short Throat ?

So I just started shooting my 1984 336, this was unfired until the other day.
Did some reading and it seems some Marlin 30-30's have short throats, this one is much shorter than my 1976 336.
So loading regular jacketed rounds are fine, not so great for loading cast bullets.
I have to load the rounds to deep into the case to chamber.
What is the consensus on getting the throat lengthened ?
It needs to be probably .050 longer
I would like to use a Nose rider, but there in lies the problem, they will not chamber, not even close.
I have tried about 6 different bullets and so far the only cast that will chamber is the 311041 and a lee 150 FN,
but the 311041 has to be set past the crimp groove.
Can I rent a hand reamer for this ? OR ?

I have 2 Marlin 336 in 30-30.One made in 1999 and the other made in 1975 both have short throats. I have one 311041 that has a nose that measures .299. It feeds perfect seated at the crimp groove.I have several other molds of the 311041 style made by different manufactures that have nose diameters that measure .301 or larger and they will not chamber with out sizing the nose to .300 or less.You might try nose sizing your boolits and see if that works for you.

This isn't a new thing with the Marlin 336 30-30's I have the first year of production 336 (1948) and several of my bore riding bullets of 30 caliber are just too long when seated to the crimp groove. They are just too long to make the transition from the carrier to the bore. Thankfully the rifle likes the Lee 150gr. flat point. I've got to get busy looking at the specs. from NOE's site for other bullet moulds that may work. TCFAN's idea of nose sizing should also be explored. I have six different NOE nose sizing bushings for 30 cal. for bullets that are just too fat in the nose area and not too long altogether. Gp

I have and have had several 336's chambered in 30-30. I have yet to find one which didn't have a short throat. Yes, they do vary a bit but even the longest one is short. Nose diameter hasn't been the problem with mine. The throats are very abrupt going from chamber neck diameter to bore diameter within less than .100" in most cases. I have had Tom at Accuratemolds make a few molds for me and also have others that will work quite well.
Good luck with yours and enjoy it!
Rick

PS.The Ranchdog style nose of many bullets won't even come close to chambering properly with the mouth of the case anywhere near the crimp groove in any 336, or 36 I"ve owned.

Tom at Accurate Moulds is the best solution to your problem. He will make a mold which will fit your gun.

My brother got sick of messing with his and bought a reamer from Brownells, I believe it was $60. A few minutes later, it has a longer, much better looking leade in to the bore, and all the boolits that were trouble before, now chamber easily. His was also the second 336 I have seen with a tight spot in front of the chamber, I believe it is from Marlin using dull chamber reamers that push a ridge up in front of the reamer. The tool he bought removed this on his, the other I firelapped out. Good luck.

The tight spots in mine were under the rear sight dovetail cut.

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Originally Posted by dubber123

My brother got sick of messing with his and bought a reamer from Brownells, I believe it was $60. A few minutes later, it has a longer, much better looking leade in to the bore, and all the boolits that were trouble before, now chamber easily. His was also the second 336 I have seen with a tight spot in front of the chamber, I believe it is from Marlin using dull chamber reamers that push a ridge up in front of the reamer. The tool he bought removed this on his, the other I firelapped out. Good luck.

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Do you happen to have any info on the tool part number?

I ran into the same problem with a 1949 336A, it would not chamber anything I had when seated at the proper length. I had the throat reamed slightly with good results.

Dave

My Marlin 336 was just as bad at chambering anything in lead. It was hard to close the action with any lead boolit. It shot very good but I did not like to have to squeeze the lever to close the action for it to fire.

I sent it off to J.E.S. reboring to 38-55, now it cycles as smooth as silk and is very accurate. There's nothing wrong with the 30-30 except it's not legal for deer in Ohio.

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Originally Posted by Dan Cash

Tom at Accurate Moulds is the best solution to your problem. He will make a mold which will fit your gun.

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^^^^^^^^ THIS

Art

I seat my Lee 150's to 2.420 and they work great in all my .30 WCF rifles: Marlin, Mossberg, and Winchester. Problem solved!

I recall a similar problem with my late 70's vintage 30-30. Sadly I sold it to fund other projects before I worked it out. If I still had it I would do like Dubber and Beemer and get the throat reamed. Have done the same to two other firearms that wouldn't chamber my ammo

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Originally Posted by Hickory

My Marlin 336 was just as bad at chambering anything in lead. It was hard to close the action with any lead boolit. It shot very good but I did not like to have to squeeze the lever to close the action for it to fire.

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I've had some guns that would do this. It's not good for brass life and raises pressure. I would also think that over the course of many rounds fired the action would get loose from the extra effort required to cycle rounds.

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Originally Posted by hylander

Do you happen to have any info on the tool part number?

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Sent my brother a note, I'll let you know. They require a T handle to turn them, which costs extra, we just whipped up a socket and extension combo and use a 1/4" drive ratchet.

Brownells part # 513-053-300