10/22 barrel band;

I've just got one heck of a deal on another 10/22, it has the dip treatment camp,barrel and stock both different patterns and topped with a Bushnell trophy realtree scope in the 1.75-4x. The whole package is very pleasing to my eye and I feel I got one heck of a deal . It's an older one from serial number made in 1984, it shoots well as I've found with most of the breed,I forget how many of these I've owned but about 50%of the time I find they shoot better with out the barrel band, this one was one of those times. It was minute of squirrel already but today in my after work unwinding range time I took the barrel band off and as always happens point of impact went higher but groups were tighter at 10;25 and 50 yards. My next job will be new pins springs and sear I've always liked the wolf 10/22 package, really slicks things up.
What has been your finding on the barrel band phenomenon? The one I built for my daughter: we did it together and painted it tiger strip pink and black camouflage and topped it with a truglo dot sight and she loves it; it shoots much better with barrel band on and tightened down with gorilla strength. Now obviously non of my heavy barrel 10/22s have a band and they all shoot wonderfully and I've often wondered if the band isn't cosmetic more than functional? So I figured I'd appeal to the wise ladies and gents here.

I've never tried mine with the band off, will have to do that soon. It already shoots better than I can hold.

Some do, some seem to do better without it or at least filed down so it doesn't actually contact the barrel .

Barrel bands often adversely affect accuracy especially with higher powered rifles.

If you wish to retain the band for looks or for a sling mount point I've found its best to arrange it so the band has a visible air gap between it and the barrel, but remain solidly affixed to the stock so it doesn't shift.

Exactly my findings;ya don't want the barrel band sliding off but not touching the launch pad.

The rifle stock does not use a barrel band and when I can find one the carbine stock is abandoned.

I have no experience with the 10-22, but have experience with a #3 in 45-70.

As produced by Ruger ('76 production) it is a tack driver (with barrel band).

The slick metal butt plate + heavy loads + straight grip stock caused pain, so I re-stocked it in a beautiful Bastogne walnut blank from E.C. Bishop (with a pistol grip & recoil pad). I did away with the barrel band & shaped the fore end in a very slim profile & neutral pressure. I looks great, but does not shoot as well as it did with the barrel band.

For display, it wears the slim fore end, but for serious work it wears the OEM fore end with barrel band (full barrel contact). It is possible that the much larger bore diameter of the .45-70 produced a very different harmonic.

I think the effect of the barrel band on accuracy varies from rifle to rifle.........which may have something to do with everything that I don't know about stocking.

Henry

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Originally Posted by oldhenry

I have no experience with the 10-22, but have experience with a #3 in 45-70.

As produced by Ruger ('76 production) it is a tack driver (with barrel band).

The slick metal butt plate + heavy loads + straight grip stock caused pain, so I re-stocked it in a beautiful Bastogne walnut blank from E.C. Bishop (with a pistol grip & recoil pad). I did away with the barrel band & shaped the fore end in a very slim profile & neutral pressure. I looks great, but does not shoot as well as it did with the barrel band.

For display, it wears the slim fore end, but for serious work it wears the OEM fore end with barrel band (full barrel contact). It is possible that the much larger bore diameter of the .45-70 produced a very different harmonic.

I think the effect of the barrel band on accuracy varies from rifle to rifle.........which may have something to do with everything that I don't know about stocking.

Henry

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My lever actions all shoot acceptably and well with bands in place , and as I said my daughters 10/22 that is identical down to the Wolff spring kit only difference being the camo job shoots markedly better with barrel band cranked down tight making hard contact with the barrel ,each specimen seems to be a unique individual as to taste in ammo and other preferences

I agree. My 10/22 is a stock mannlicer style with nose cap, and it is just as accurate as free float tuned version.

Mine shoots better without band and a pad at the forend tip pushing on the barrel .great fun guns.Lego for grown ups.

I had an old (74 model)) and I found it shot better . . . more precisely with the barrel band removed.

I gave it to a friend and he finds that it holds minute of squirrel with the band.

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Originally Posted by TCLouis

I had an old (74 model)) and I found it shot better . . . more precisely with the barrel band removed.

I gave it to a friend and he finds that it holds minute of squirrel with the band.

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Yes that is what I mean more precisely; tighter groups yes but no vertical stringing and no flyers with the band removed, filing it down so it did not contact the barrel didn't even help it had to be disgaurded to reach full accuracy potential

I used to remove the band and reshape the forend on every 10/22 I got. I didn't do a before /after accuracy test but they still shot great and looked much better in my eyes.

Playing with the action screw torque can have a impact on your accuracy also.
I just did a new barrel and fitted and glassbed the factory stock. Eliminated the band and nose altogether. Hope to give it a good run this Sunday.

The barrel band serves a purpose.
Right out of the box, the 10/22 is very accurate.
Taking the barrel band off is a step for those seeking more from the rifle.
Followed up with a few more tricks allows for the next level of rimfire zen.