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Is there any references, tables or else where Lyman seating screw codes could be checked? I have one marked 658S but I don't have slightest idea what caliber it's for... nose shape is about pointed though. How universal these might be from caliber to another?
Go to www.castpics.net and click on research. you will see a link to Lyman cast bullet designs and each of them indicate which nose punch to use. You can check out your punch and see what bullets it will work with.
Finn: I recently worked through my various Lyman Handbooks and Catalogs and made up a list of sizer top-punch numbers vs. bullet mould numbers. Also the seating screw numbers (which in most cases are the same) for those that were listed. In short, TP #658 (I don't know what the "S" stands for; I've never seen one so-marked) is listed for bullets #410660 and #457658, and the seating screw should work at least for these. BUT, exact seating screw (or TP) profile is not all that important, especially as Lyman noses vary in shape from cherry to cherry. Most standard 7/8" x 14 dies, by most makers, just use a few generic seating screw shapes - pointed, RN, SWC and dead flat - that fit just about any bullet that comes along, at least fairly well. I have made these by using a 15* taper end mill (30* included angle) for conicals, a variety of ball end mills from 1/4" on up for RN's, and/or just machining them flat across the end for SWC's. A "ring" mark on a bullet tip won't hurt much - at worst, a few points off on the ballstic coefficient - so long as it is symmetrical.Quote:
Originally Posted by Finn45
Chargar: The list on Castpics covers most Lyman bullets up to 1973, but doesn't include those in the higher #xxx600's". If asked, I will send my list to Sundog for posting, using a "reverse-lookup" sort, so that you can tell which bullets fit a given TP or SS, and well as a sort giving the TP/SS for a given mould number.
Sundog: My list is from MS Works database, so may take some manipulation to post. Lemme know if you'd like it.
floodgate
Yes sir re, a circular top punch ring on a flat nose boolit won't see air until below the speed of sound, so the boolit can be marked up pretty deep before anything shows up at the target because of the ring. ... felix
Thanks for the replies Gentlemen. Lack of sharp mind was causing me to ask this, there must be some kind of shady spot right in the part of my brains where term seating screw is located; I now remember seeing it on Castpics data tables (which are truly great btw) and I found tables also from Lyman's third edition CBB. 658S, which obviously is newer designs was found from Lyman's web pages from available rifle molds section, with boolit pics and top punch numbers (hidden behind the drop menu boxes...); seating screws aren't specified but numbering pretty clearly seems follow top punch numbering.
What comes to nose shapes and seating screw fit; I wasn't after that with this. I have only Lee set for my .45-70, which is crappy imo but I use it for every nose shape I have. I'm looking for better one now, actually only better seating die, because Lee's separate nose thingie under the aluminum adjusting screw is... well it's not good; nose thingie moves to all direction including big sideways clearance and even the nose thingy shape is not very universal for my use. Main concern for me is not the nose deformation or ring around the ogive, but boolit starting crooked to the case is, although when ready it looks like perfect especially when not so tight neck tension (partial resizing and M-die) is used. And I'm very tired of rolling the case at about 45-70 rpm in the holder with my fingers and pumping the handle like maniac when seating the boolit hehe.
This screw itself is from Lyman die set I bought from Ebay, it was described as excellent Lyman set with some extras and this extra seating screw, but included actually Lee seating die and that makes my purchase nearly worthless cuz I already have that Lee, and M-die, and, and, and... More questions will follow...
.............How would a seater insert for the Lee die work if it was larger in diameter and had a very shallow broad taper? Would that cure your ills?
.............Buckshot
Buckshot,
I'm not sure or maybe I'm not very confident on that one. I remember thinking of different nose inserts when I started using it few years ago, but maybe there was something that stopped me buying the lathe work for it. As You know, the insert is guided by aluminum screw, it's like top punch shank going inside the screw but fitting is very sloppy. Also the screw itself is pretty sloppy and moves funnily like a joystick when assembling compressed charges. Surprisingly (for me) it keeps seating depth pretty well in control though. But Your question gave me an idea if I can find a bolt with the same thread, maybe I can make solid seating screws for this... need to check how long the thread is in the die and so on. It might work even with normal reliable locking nut like all other less ingenious types are working. Now I'm only waiting for the weekend to begin. Thanks.
I have been pondering on using Lee dies for target practice, might be fun with the 22-250AI at 200 yards.......putting them end on and getting a bullet right up the bunghole might have some satisfaction to it as well
Bill
Quote:
Originally Posted by Finn45
Old thread, but still relevant today...
Found this PDF with the bullet mold and corresponding Top Punch (AKA seating screw) number.
https://www.lymanproducts.com/media/...let_moulds.pdf