Kroil in a boolit mold

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Originally Posted by Merlin43

I use it mostly on my trailer hitches, but I tried it on bullets, too. The spray sure made it go on easily.
I'm not sure what advantage moly' gives bullets and am less interested in some of the effects I have read about since I Ultra-Coated my rifles. I also wonder if spraying on a coating is as effective as the tumble-on process; it seems to me that the latter would actually embed the moly' in the lead.
That said, I did notice less leading at high velocities with the Kano-sprayed bullets.

I know that's not much help, but maybe you will get more answers. At least I can assure you that I did *not* notice any ill effects of the Kano spray.

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would it help to put the moly in the melt?

"feed the mayonnaise to the tuna fish before we put them in the can..."

well as the original poster many years back as shotman then
kano has a product called Pyrolube it does have a very small amount of moly in the lube. it works better in molds than the Kroil,BUT
it is only sold in a GAL . THAT gal is about $200

Try $70.35

What about using graphite?

I just received another 8 oz can in the mail today. I got my first can from a friend who also sold saws and did maintenance on my saw grinders, as well as providing Ni Babbitt and an occasional 60 lb ingot of lead that ended up in the back of my truck...It took MANY years to use that can up, and I still have a bit left. I quit using WD-40 since it dried and left a yellow and very hard residue.

Kroil does really good in my molds most of the time. There are sometimes when I just have to blast the cavities with RemOil, and then cast. A few casts and the wrinkles are gone. Sometimes I gotta smoke the cavities, and use the large kitchen matches for that.

Kroil works wonders for cleaning rifle bores, too. I use Outers Foam, let it sit for a spell, then swab it out. A patch or three soaked with Kroil has the bore literally squeaky clean, whether I've fired jacketed, cast or a combination of both...

Kroll is a truly amazing product. My brother in law got me hooked on it 20+ years ago. He was working in a chemical plant & they used it on corroded valves. At the time I was a mechanic & it's the best thing I've ever used for stubborn nuts/bolts, broke off bolts ect. I use it to clean suppressors. I reckon I'll be trying in on molds now

My dad told me to clean the molds with brake cleaner, pre-heat and cast. I get very good results that way, my 'sooted' molds don't drop them like the 'clean' molds do.

Open-drop, EZPZ.

Many molds don't need any help IF they are perfectly clean

I've got a Lyman mold that's been a first-class PITA due to bullets often sticking, always in the left block. Happened across this thread, and gave the Kroil a try.

First 3-5 bullets had some wrinkles, after that came out beautifully and- at most- would take a couple of taps on the hinge pin to make them drop out. BIG difference.

Conditor22 sez - "Many molds don't need any help IF they are perfectly clean".
GONRA agrees but remember be sure to "REMOVE ANY MACHINING SCARF" (burrs). (By HAND , NOT with an electric hand grinder!)

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Originally Posted by Tenbender

Here is a link on a Kroil deal. I have some on order going to try and clean up some old molds.
http://www.kanolabs.com/google/

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That google deal is still good! You can get the spray Kroil and the liquid in the cans for less than Midway USA or Amazon

If you happen to be here at the end of the thread, I can confirm that the Google deal list above is still good. My cans of Kroil arrived today, 7 days after I ordered them. I never got a receipt or shipping notice and they didn't post the charge to PayPal until 5 days after I ordered. I was curious if I was going to get anything but yep, they did deliver and at a very good price compared to MidwayUSA or Amazon

My dad gave me a can of kroil about 30 years ago. It was the only penetrant that got into the corroded turbo bolts. I started to use it to clean guns around the same time. Soak a nasty revolver cyilinder over night, the carbon that is left wipes right off with a rag. I think I have a gallon jug, a few of the little pint cans and some spray cans. I have yet to find a better penetrating oil. If you have ever heard of Eds red, modify the recipe by adding kroil. It cleans the moly from coated bullets in a few passes of a cleaning rod.

I use Lyman moly spray, Year 6, still 1/2 a can left. Doesn't take much.

I thought there was an issue with moly breaking down at bore temperatures and causing barrel erosion?

As to the OP, in a hot sticky mold, I use some Kroil on a Q-tip to make it drop easier. Works for me.

what is the best way to clean up a rusty lyman mold

todd2
I guess that depends on how rusty. I'd heat it up just slightly and bronze brush it with a penetrating oil like Blaster. Is it in the cavity?

i only seen pictures looked kind of rusty all over think i got a good price

Surface rust can be cleaned from a mould by soaking the mould in a solution of water and citric acid. It will remove any residual bluing also.