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Hey fellas good morning
I am wanting to know if there is any other way to use seals other than Crisco or Bore Butter I will need a plain wool wad for the over the powder charge so the lube wont ruin the powder charge but what about the seal what else could I use in place of the messy Crisco or the Bore Butter . I will be using the Triple 7 3F powder in all of my shooting
They are called Wonder Wads. They are made caliber specific, fit over the powder, ball/conical sits on top. Easy to use.
What la5676 said, but if you'd like to make your own, google Duro Felt as they have just what you need at a most reasonable price.
I use the lubed felt wads under my bullets in mine with no problems with the powder . With the wad and good fitting bullet i don't put anything in the end of the cylinder after it loaded .
Amen to this, mike!
Yes-- I use Ox Yoke Wonder Wads.
The thickness of the wad will be a percentage of the remaining volume beneath a boolit of any length and can take the place of some filler as you search for the best load.Quote:
Originally Posted by trapper44shooter
If you're brewing your own lube to dip wads in a hard recipe with a high beeswax content can make it not spoil powder very much but still let the lubricative qualities go into the fouling when the powder vaporizes it.
Any how, there's lots of tricks to try and what works for your piece rules.
What they all said.
If you go the Duro Felt route as I have, as the nice lady who runs the company to send you a yard of it. Buy the set of drill bit wad punches at Harbor Freight and use the 7/16 one to cut a bunch of them out on a plastic cutting board from Walmart. I put the wads in a sandwich bag and dribble some of my oldest olive oil in the bag. I mush (technical word) them around and then lay them on a few paper towels to absorb any excess oil. Put them in a dry bag with a piece of paper towel to pick up any excess, then carry them to the range and have fun making smoke! This process also works with pre-cut muzzle loader patches. Gray Fox
All charges of Triple Seven or Pyrodex should be measured by VOLUME not weight. A simple, adjustable blackpowder measure is the correct tool for this job. All loads listed in this brochure are measured by VOLUME.
Triple Seven is a high energy product designed to provide the muzzleloading hunter with higher velocities when used in the same VOLUME as blackpowder. To duplicate a blackpowder load velocity using Triple Seven, you must decrease the powder charge by 15%.
Triple Seven In Cartridges: Use data specifically developed for Triple Seven FFG only. Cartridge loads should be used exactly as listed in this pamphlet. You may safely use a card or polyethylene wad up to .030" in thickness to protect the base of the bullet. Loading density should be 100% with light compression not to exceed .100". Testing has shown that Triple Seven will perform best when the bullet just touches the powder. Allow no airspace between the base of the bullet and the powder. Do not reduce loads by means of filler wads or inert filler material such as Grits, Dacron or Grex. Do not heavily compress powder charges. The use of filler wads, inert fillers or heavy compression may cause a dangerous situation, which could cause injury and/or death to the shooter, bystanders or damage property. Do not create loads for cartridges not listed. Contact Hodgdon Powder Company for recommendations concerning other load
PS: Lubed wads are not mandatory. It is a smokeless substitute powder not black powder
I went to a hat factory and got their felt cutoffs for free punches em out and olive oiled same as gray fox cheapest wads ever
There are discoverable advantages to a felt wad. Be sure to use actual felt, not synthetic felt. Most "felt" hats use synthetic felt.
Attachment 258224
I use a wad punch from Upper Missouri Trading and cut my own from old hats and then lube with bear oil and bees wax stiff enough to not meal in the summer. This is good for 20 shots or so before you have to swab.
Instead of using wads, I'd recommend using Semolina flour over your powder charge. It keeps fouling soft and you can tweak the amount so that your ball is just barely inside the cylinder mouth. It's also cheap!
Anyhow, this is what MLAIC competitors use (that, or Cream of Wheat).
Jim
The recipe I have for making lubricated patches for my cap and ball pistols, calls for 50/50 beeswax and olive oil. It is supposed to be the basic recipe Ox Yoke uses. You can vary the percentages a bit to compensate for climate. Heat the lube, soak the felt in it, and then cut your wads.
Wool felt wads, punched from hats found in thrift stores work like a charm. I punch wads, put them in a plastic container and pour Gato Feo’s lube over the wads, all the while stirring. Once mixed thoroughly and cooled, they are quite stiff and when placed under a ball, don’t leach lube into the powder. Longest I’ve left a charged cylinder was a week in Lower Alabama during the summer. When fired, there were no problems noticed. The wads provide enough lube so that I’ve fired 60 shots without any cylinder drag and have a clear barrel, although after removing the barrel to recharge the cylinder, I give a few breaths down the barrel to moisten the fouling.