New caster

After a couple of years of buying bullets, I decided to make my own. I have a mold for the 9MM and also one for my 380 ACP. I researched the Internet and even After the influence of Elvis Ammo, I decided I want to use 45–45-10. I also decided instead of mixing it myself to purchase it from White.
Here is my question: I am kind of anal when it comes to making sure everything is in proper specifications. I would like to know if this is the proper procedure: applylube, resize the bullet, and then lube again for any spots that had the lube removed by resizing.
I just want to do this procedure properly. I don’t want unlubbed areas of the bullet nor do I want sticky mess to clog up the magazines, etc.
Powder coating does look interesting, but I assumed I would still have to resize after powder coating.
I do appreciate any help. At 69 years old I need all the help I can get. Thank you

Howdy and welcome to the forum. You can size the bullets bare, and then tumble lube them 1 time. Lee sizing die instructions say to lube then size then lube again. But you dont have to lube first.

To make sure my die was up to par inside, I cleaned and lightly polished the inside of my die by taking a piece of scotchbrite cloth and turning it in a drill on the end of a short piece of cleaning rod.

Remember, less is more with tumble lube. If you think you have enough, you have way too much. I always just tumbled, then sized and loaded. If it is dry and thin enough it will stay put. Don't discount powder coating, I haven't lubed for years. It is easier than it looks, even on YouTube. Most of those guys are worried about max speed and production. Those of us that shoot maybe a couple hunder a week can easily keep up with our demand with basic drytumble and hand picking.

I do PC and Lube depends on the bullet. Long skinny bullets are a PITA to stand up and fall like dominoes so that makes pan lubing them and PC them nerve wracking. Lubersizer will make quick short work of them. On the other hand for 9mm, 380 ACP and 357 mag i can PC and size those as fast as lubing so it just adds a bit of color to my life and easier in the handling. Grand scheme of things PC really doesn't add or take away anything in terms of time vs effort. Tumble lubing has its place as well been meaning to mix up some 45-45-10 to give it a go. Would rather make BLL but i don't have access to the floor wax in these parts and the stuff i got didn't work as planned. Either way you look at it, you gonna run it through a sizer so your not really saving any time.

Welcome to CB rvenneman
here's a list of information that will help get you started

-------- welcome to CB. If you decided to start casting to save money, forget it. You won't, you'll just shoot more.
Casting boolits (lead bullets) properly is a science, once you know the basics, not a hard science.
There is a lot of good information on CB. The Google search (top right of every forum page) is a gateway to all the knowledge on this forum. IF you can’t find your answer there ask the question (Please be as detailed as possible, pictures help http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...g-screen-shots I would be very surprised if there wasn’t someone on this forum that could answer ANY question you might have)
http://www.lasc.us/Fryxell_Book_Contents.htm
1. Boolits need to be cast .0005 to .003 over the slugged diameter of your barrel for accuracy and to avoid leading. If the fit is wrong nothing else will work right.
a. slugging a barrel (it is safer to use a brass rod or a steel rod with a couple of coats of tape to avoid damaging your barrel http://7.62x54r.net/MosinID/MosinSlug.htm
b. chamber casting https://www.brownells.com/guntech/ce....htm?lid=10614
or pound casting http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...rifle-chamber)
2. the right alloy needs to be used for the velocity and purpose of the boolit (don’t fall into the trap of going with to hard an alloy
Economical way to easily test lead hardness
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...rdness-testing
https://i.imgur.com/TGUQsIe.jpg
Some alloys harden over time
http://www.lasc.us/Fryxell_Book_Chap...Metallurgy.htm
different alloy’s different end sizes
https://i.imgur.com/emuBC2T.png?1
Lead alloy calculator
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/atta...4&d=1341560870
3. velocity the bullet needs to be pushed hard/fast enough to get the proper spin, have the proper velocity to accurately reach the target but not so hard as to be dangerous or strip the lead off in the grooves instead of spinning the boolit..
Powders range from fast to slow, you need to choose the right powder for your application.
Loading manuals list the best powders for certain calibers and boolit weights.
NEVER use any posted noncommercial load data without first checking to see if falls in the safe parameter for your firearm!! There are several firearms out there that can handle much higher pressures than others!!
Link to free online load data
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...online-sources

Load and "plunk" test some of your bullets without sizing - sizing is not always necessary. A chamber cast will tell a bit more,yet, but "plunking" some sized and not sized is likely enough to learn if you should size.

I'm still pretty new, myself, and these tidbits of when one can or, even, should deviate from the fullest process are the harder bits of info to find.

welcome to the silver stream Sir:

welcome to the forum. you might try the chat room there are a bunch of people in there that can help you out D Crockett

I dry size and then tumble lube. Tumble lube is much faster and easier than any other method.

So size, tumble lube using very little lube in a zip lock bag and then dump onto a sheet of wax paper or butcher paper. Separate them if you need to and let dry. Drying time should be just a few hours with 45-45-10. the amount of lube will dictate the drying time. You should learn to use it sparingly.

There are many different techniques to TL.

I make my own, and I make it to the consistency of peanut butter.

I put 50 or so boolits in a bowl, and a dab (the size of a boolit) of 45-45-10.
I heat the bowl/boolits/lube with a heatgun.
>swirl the boolits in the bowl.
>dump on wax paper to cool/dry (happens in about 15 minutes)
>Size
>repeat the bowl/boolits/lube heat and swirl.
>Dump and let cool/dry

Again, as others have said, Less is more. I apply as thin of a layer as possible...in fact it's tough to see it, so I will 'feel' them with my fingers as I dump them onto wax paper to be sure they are fully coated. The second layer will take a little longer to fully dry (an hour or so), I usually let them sit overnight to fully 'outgas' the solvents of the lube, so the coating is hard and stable for loading ammo.


here is an example:

Quote:

---

The boolits on the yellow lid have been TL'd
the other boolits have no lube on them.

---

Attachment 211711

You don’t have to apply lube to size boolits. I have run many thru lee push through dies and the die burnishes the portion of the slug being sized. It might help reduce the effort required in pushing the boolit thru the die. If you are fortunate; you may be able to lube and shoot the boolit as cast. Worth a try.

Thank you for all who took the time to respond. I have some great info to get me going. One issue I am working on is my belief that is if 2 asprin are good for a headache, then three are better....so I need to reduce the amount of White’s 45-45-10 Tumble Lube I use. And then use less.