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All of this talk about cutting cores got me wondering how you all have your lead cutters setup? I have been getting really itchy to make some projectiles but trying to get into a house and having an emergency appendectomy is really getting me behind in doing this. Perhaps a couple of photos of how yours are setup? I sure could use some ideas.
I use Dave Corbin's PCS-2. Go to Dave's home page and type in "core cutter". He gives a good description of how his cutter works. All other core cutters I have seen work the same way. Dave sells cutter bushings for about $20 ea but I make my own. I cut approximately 1in lengths of 7/8 drill rod and bore a hole a little bigger than the wire I want to cut and chamfer both sides. Then I cut the piece in half and clean up the cut ends. I now have two bushings that when sliding past each other cut the wire as cleanly as you need. I hang my reels or wire from a 5/8 rod in the floor joists of my basement right above my cutter so I can just pull wire down and cut the cores I need.
Bob
Joe:
I have an extra Corbins core cutter.
I will put what ever size of bushings in it that you want.
Want to buy it?
Call me.
Lafaun
RCE's cutter is set up to do most standard size wire with one blade and multiple offices.
I built my own from some steel and angle iron it is simple and works well .
^^^ you have a pic? a core cutter is on my to do list
While I do appreciate the offer Lafaun I already have a core cutter. I am asking for some pictures or words (thank you Midnight) of how yours are setup? Was not trying to start a thread debating what one everyone has. Just ideas to help newbies how to set theirs up and what some find that saves them time?
Joe: I'll try to take a few pics of my core cutting area and how it is set up. Maybe you can look at it and modify it to suit your physical layout and personal tastes. I'll post them here. I'm feeling really lazy right now. Got to watch the Nascar race now & then go fishing tomorrow morning. Bluegills should begin spawning soon. Got to be there when they do.
Bob
here is one i found in the archives... this is a clever and simple design setup for sizing lead wire:
http://i913.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps2f5690a3.jpg
question: how can this be adapted for trimming a cast boolit (cutting off the ogive of a semi wad cutter, for example)? i got some ideas, but nothing jumps out at me so far and gets me to the ah ha moment...
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Here are a few pics of the Corbin PSC-2 core cutter and the dies. Also a pic of wire reels hanging from the floor joists. I staple a card identifying the size and composition of the wire to the floor/ceiling above the reel. Operation is quite simple. Wire is inserted through both dies letting the end rest on the adjustable stop below the dies (it's just a bolt). Move the handle 90° to the left and the wire shears at the junction of the two die halves and falls into the bin below. The closer the fit of the wire in the die (within reason) the more reproduceable your results.
Bob
I have room for more wire sizes i plan on a 42 caliber wire cutter later for 44 & 45 bullets.
ff that looks awesome... do you do anything special to the holes are just drill them out and start cutting?
THis lead is quite soft.
When I made a similar one, I drilled the holes, and than removed the burrs, and just started chopping wire.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cane_man
I was informed that the core cutter I use was tack welded together during the hole drilling process to ensure alignment and fit. It's based on a Corbin PSC type cutter but is much heavier than the PSC-1 that I received later. It also cuts a lot more accurately.
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^^^ if it is not too much bother what is the thickness, width, and length of the two bars? i really like that design and i would like to redneck one together...
I made one like the Ammosmith, search or google "ammosmith core cutter" . Wire cutters with a post and flat washer. cheap, fast and accurate enough for me as the difference on weight is bled off in the core swage die.
thanks Duke!Quote:
Originally Posted by DukeInMaine
Cane man just as Duke said simple drill though then the other side was drilled for bolt with nut on each side of other metal.
The material measured at 1.24"x0.300", so I'm guessing its 11/4"x 5/16" flat if there is such a beast? The handle was 350mm/13.75" long and the fixed arm was 190mm/7.5" long.Quote:
Originally Posted by Cane_man
^^^ thank you sir, that helps a bunch... :cast_boolits:
i saw that, what a great simple design! i think if you are just cutting smaller diameters you really wouldn't want anything more than this...Quote:
Originally Posted by FWest
had a fun day in the shop, weather cooled down some so i could rough out a "core cutter"... not really a core cutter as most of you guys are using lead wire or something similar, where all i need to do is trim off the ogive of a cast boolit to get the desired core weight i need... here is the business side where you can see the boolit ogive sticking out ready to trim to length:
http://i913.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps4b1c3851.jpg
i set it up so i can use different inserts for different size of boolits, and adjust how much of the ogive will stick out with an adjustment screw... here is the back side where i just clamped it to the top of my press, there is the insert with a tiny ejection punch... trimming this way initially had my boolits within 1 grain of each other, before i was using tin snips and getting 5+ grain variations so i am very pleased with this setup:
http://i913.photobucket.com/albums/a...psa1af5a93.jpg
i will explain the details this week in my swaging thread, i have a few more details to finish up on, but thanks everyone for your help on this, could not have done it without you!
Looks professional, good job.
CC
Looks Fantastic Cane_Man!
hey CC you are just the man to know this... i want to heat treat the blade part of "chopper", all i have is a small map gas torch, can i heat up just the blade area to red/orange and then quench it oil? do i need to temper after hardening? any suggestions as i dont have a fire or heat treating oven...
edit: the steel is 1018 cold rolled
Cane,
1018 is a low carbon steel, and can not be heat treated. If you need a harder edge, you could try case hardening. If you are just cutting soft lead, I doubt that it would need to be hardened. I'm assuming you are using this for cutting cores? If the cutter gets dull try sharpening it at a blunter angle. Like a metal chisel vs a wood chisel. I've never cut any lead yet, but don't know how quickly it would dull the cutting edge. I'm in the lawn care business so I've got a ton of old lawn mower blades available that I'll make mine from. You could also try attaching an edger blade to your cutter, they are hardened.
hope this helps,
CC
well i ended up case hardening using Cherry Red... i tellya what, that Forrestr aint no gump :) and his tip to use ceramic insulation when torching up the part worked like a charm... i just wrapped the blade/handle part in the insulation like a taco, hit it with the torch and in about 5' the cutting edge was orange... then did the case hardening and it turned out awesome
i took a course and then fine file to it, probably spent more time that i should but i was having fun, it cuts like a knife cutting cheese:
http://i913.photobucket.com/albums/a...psf74f6702.jpg
What kind of cheese? I tell ya that Munster stuff sure is delightful just not easy to cut! :)
That really is a nice looking cutter.
hahaha, thanks Joe... i really like sharp cheddar with gobs of sea salt sprinkled on it... and an icy cold bud light :)