First H&G 2 Cavity Mold, Need Some Help

I have a new to me H&G 2 cav mold, bought unseen, that will need some attention before I can cast with it.

Hoping for some help. My search efforts have yielded some data, but want to see if this all makes sense to you.

1. Handles! Yep, now I know! Didn't think about handle compatibility when I made the purchase. Lesson learned!

I've read that Ballisti-cast made them, but they don't seem to be in business. I didn't realize that handles would be a challenge. I have a few RCBS and NOE handles onhand. It seems like if I remove about 5/100ths from the thickness of RCBS handles, they would work. The holes are the correct size. See any issues with my logic?

2. Rust! Block exteriors are not too bad. Rust is mostly concentrated in the cavities and sprue plate. I'm thinking about using Evaporust. This would be the first for me on a mold, but it seems very gentle on other things I've used. What do you think? Soft brush and dawn soap have been recommended too, but hoping to not make a big project out of it.

https://s20.postimg.cc/p697ol3el/20180315_192852.jpg

3. One of the set screws doesn't quite reach the sprue pivot screw or the sprue plate stop screw (tried both sides). So it is ineffective. It looks like a prior owner had similar issues since heavy wrenching with a screw driver is evident. Maybe I could drop a piece of lead shot in front of it? Any other ideas?

https://s20.postimg.cc/ye1g5ai6l/20180315_193921.jpg

I'm really not looking for a project, so I'm leaning toward just letting this this go for sale. Your input will help me to decide! Thanks!

That's a lot rust in the cavities. Evaparust will clean it up, but you might need to polish them after you cast some bullets. Use some fine polishing compound.
You also have lead on the faces that should be removed.
Just replace the screws with longer ones. All my H&G's came with long screws.

You could keep it for a conversation piece too.

Cast some bullets and lap the cavities with some valve grinding compound, and it should be good to go. You can clean the mold faces off with a popsicle stick that has been sharpened
with a knife or a toothbrush and some solvent. it might seem line a bunch of work but it shouldn't take that long.

You could file down a set of handles to make it work.


I have that mold in 4 cavity and shoots good in light .38 loads.

Thank you guys for the feedback. I'm going to pass this old mold to someone who would treat her properly and get her up and running. Not up for a project.

I would first give it a soak in Kroil Oil as it will get under the rust, so you can see what the damage is. A #2 pencil eraser can also work fairly well to polish and rubbing the cavities with the pencil lead may be enough to even out the cavities somewhat so it can be used.

The #50 and especially a two cavity is probably the least sought after H&G mold since 38 wad-cutters are just not that popular anymore, so unless this mold is really something you want I wouldn't put a lot of time and money into.

I really hate these sellers, especially on Evil Bay that separate the mold handles on the H&G molds so they can make a couple of extra bucks. The mold handles were included with the H&G molds because they were made to fit the mold they were attached to. Just buying H&G handles doesen't mean they will operate the mold properly without some tweaking.

The screws for these molds are also a problem and the lengths tend to vary somewhat. I assume because there changes and custom work preformed over the years. I have several H&G molds and ended up making my own screws by altering available stainless screws. But I think H&G molds are terrific and well worth my effort.

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Originally Posted by Dragonheart

I would first give it a soak in Kroil Oil as it will get under the rust, so you can see what the damage is. A #2 pencil eraser can also work fairly well to polish and rubbing the cavities with the pencil lead may be enough to even out the cavities somewhat so it can be used.

The #50 and especially a two cavity is probably the least sought after H&G mold since 38 wad-cutters are just not that popular anymore, so unless this mold is really something you want I wouldn't put a lot of time and money into.

I really hate these sellers, especially on Evil Bay that separate the mold handles on the H&G molds so they can make a couple of extra bucks. The mold handles were included with the H&G molds because they were made to fit the mold they were attached to. Just buying H&G handles doesen't mean they will operate the mold properly without some tweaking.

The screws for these molds are also a problem and the lengths tend to vary somewhat. I assume because there changes and custom work preformed over the years. I have several H&G molds and ended up making my own screws by altering available stainless screws. But I think H&G molds are terrific and well worth my effort.

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The seller, in this instance has been very stand up. I want to make that clear. The tip about Kroil and a pencil eraser are new to me. Thanks for that.

I'm the one that sold him the mold. It is how I received it, No Handles. I did not pull them aside to try and make more money on him. I'm trying to clear out stuff I don't need and not mess people around. I offered pics to anyone who wanted them, I offered to take it back as soon as Taterhead messaged me. He declined and I also offered to send H&G screws. When I looked at this mold I'm certain that the sprue plate was tight because I checked it. I believe the screw is getting hung up some how because it is recessed enough the screw head can sit almost flush to the body. The cavities did not appear pitted and still don't. It honestly looked more like build up to me. Again I will take it back shipping both ways on me, send screws, or send pics of some other molds I have that I can swap you out of. Thanks and have a great day. Taterhead has been great to deal with as well.

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Originally Posted by WJP

I'm the one that sold him the mold. It is how I received it, No Handles. I did not pull them aside to try and make more money on him. I'm trying to clear out stuff I don't need and not mess people around. I offered pics to anyone who wanted them, I offered to take it back as soon as Taterhead messaged me. He declined and I also offered to send H&G screws. When I looked at this mold I'm certain that the sprue plate was tight because I checked it. I believe the screw is getting hung up some how because it is recessed enough the screw head can sit almost flush to the body. The cavities did not appear pitted and still don't. It honestly looked more like build up to me. Again I will take it back shipping both ways on me, send screws, or send pics of some other molds I have that I can swap you out of. Thanks and have a great day. Taterhead has been great to deal with as well.

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Well shoot, WJP, I was hoping to keep the focus on the mold itself, instead of getting into the details of our transaction. But seller intent was called into question so I understand your need to set the record straight since you have other transactions under way.

For anyone tuning in, the seller has been absolutely 100% awesome to deal with, and is evidenced by the positive feedback that I placed in the Straight Shooters thread. I don't feel slighted in the least bit, so please let's not make this about what the seller did or did not do. WJP is good-to-go!

This is about naivete on my part, not understanding the handle situation primarily. To get this thing up and running, I have a bit of work to do and I'm not in the mood. Look for this mold to be available FTAGH in the next day or two over on S&S. Thanks to WJP, I learned how to properly package a mold for shipping. Learning about H&G molds (and what to think about when buying used) has been worth every penny of the purchase price, so I'm fine. No regrets.

Thank you all for your input, and sorry WJP that you were pulled in like this. Absolutely not the intent.

WJP, sorry if you got tarred with the same brush and I understand now that you were just passing on what you received.

But I have a lot of respect for the men who made these molds and it really galls me when I see their work being disrespected. Just a couple of weeks ago it was obvious a seller on Evil Bay was separating the handles, which is more than a disservice to those that unknowingly buy the H&G Molds.

OK, Lee small block handles will work.
You will need to add small spacers
Mike

I was microscopically close to offering it "free to a good home", but suddenly the old mold is starting to grow on me.

Well, I looked at this a little closer. The retention screws have just enough galling around the head so that they don't want to counter sink into the mold. One is much worse than the other. One will counter sink with a little fiddling. The other won't go at all. Too fat for the recess in the mold block.

A little honing should remove just enough material so that the screws can go deep enough to reach the sprue pivot and stop screws.

And the parts are now bathing in Evaporust.

Ok. I guess the project that I didn't want to undertake is suddenly underway. If I get happy with the mold, then I have a set of RCBS handles that will have a date with a grinder.


Anyone know about how old this one is based on the way it was stamped?

"Anyone know about how old this one is based on the way it was stamped?"

They were made in San Diego from 1941 thru 1964

More info at:
http://www.hensleygibbs.com/


regarding handles:
NV Ballistics makes them for $37.50
http://www.nvballistics.com/index.php/31-2/

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Originally Posted by JonB_in_Glencoe

"Anyone know about how old this one is based on the way it was stamped?"

They were made in San Diego from 1941 thru 1964

More info at:
http://www.hensleygibbs.com/


regarding handles:
NV Ballistics makes them for $37.50
http://www.nvballistics.com/index.php/31-2/

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That's awesome! Thank you very much.

Glad you decided to keep it for now. I honestly think it will clean up to be very nice. Desirable is is up to the end user. I prefer the WC and SWC design. I kept a #50 in much worse shape for myself but a 6 cavity. I'll post some pics before after and cast when I finish cleaning it up. Sometimes things look or appear worse then they actually are with out all the info. No disrespect taken from anyone. I'm here because I enjoy casting even though I once said I would never cast a thing.

ETA: A few somewhat before pics. These were after soaking for about 30 mins.

Attachment 216622
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Attachment 216625

I’m also glad you decided to keep it. I’m betting that it cleans up good enough to use. A sliver of wood will get the lead off of the faces and careful use of a scribe will easily clean up the vent lines. Evaporust is good stuff! A good scrubbing with a tooth brush and some Kroil should clean the cavities up. You’ll enjoy casting with it!

A guy at a gun show practically paid me to take this lump of rust .
He even threw in the half lb of lead stuck to it for nothing .

Attachment 216637
Attachment 216638

A 3 hour bath in Evaporust and little steel wool and some fussing with the cavities getting them pretty again . Added some cold blue for aesthetics .
Attachment 216639
Attachment 216641
Attachment 216642
It cleaned up nice .
I still need to get some grips squared away properly .
It casts like a champ but cutting 8 sprues at a time is a bear .

I make a copper disc out of romex wire for the set screws. The ground from a piece of #12 about .1" long and flattened with a punch is about right. You may need to trim the corners to get it to fit. Tightening the setscrew will give you a custom fit.

After it's cleaned and derusted I cast some boolits and drill a small hole (1/8" bit will work) in the sprue cut while it's in the mold. In a Dremel set is a mandrel for a felt buffer that attaches with a screw end. It will chuck in your variable speed drill or tapping handle. The threads on the mandrel will tap into the base of the boolit pilot hole. A little Maas or any other metal polishing crème applied to the boolit/cavity and spun SLOWLY will clean it up the last little bit. Toothpaste will also work but is a pain to get out of the cavities. Hah! Toothpaste-cavities. Go slow, clean and check often.

This is the Dremel mandrel;

https://www.dremel.com/en_US/product...es/401-mandrel

Haret66
Look here
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z1bp8Cl3L8A

Don't hit the sprue plate to remove the sprue!!!!!!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by jsizemore

Don't hit the sprue plate to remove the sprue!!!!!!

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I like to turn them by hand.

Progress!

Evaporust. Man, that stuff is handy. After a 1/2 day soak and some work with Dawn soap and a toothbrush, the cavities are looking pretty good. The metal was looking parched after the de-rust operation, so everything got a coat of Ballistol for storage while I figure out the handle situation. In my experience, Ballistol cleans out of the cavities pretty easily.

I fixed the retention screw heads by taping the threads with painters tape and lightly chucking in a drill. I spun the perimeter of the screw heads on sandpaper to remove a teansie bit of radius. They are now able to turn deep enough into the block to reach the sprue pivot and stop screws.

Next up:

remove lead from the cavity faces, and
contact NV Ballistics that JonB referenced for handles (thanks JonB!).

https://s20.postimg.cc/a3q554d59/20180318_153538.jpg

It good to see that you are getting that nice old mold back into useable condition. The H&G molds that I have are a pleasure to cast with.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Taterhead

I like to turn them by hand.

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If you watch the video posted by skeettx the guy hits the sprue plate after it's open. Don't do that!!!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by skeettx

Haret66
Look here
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z1bp8Cl3L8A

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That is an awesome solution for the sprue plate !
I have been white noise thinking about how to go about getting a 3rd handle on the plate .

Quote:

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Originally Posted by jsizemore

If you watch the video posted by skeettx the guy hits the sprue plate after it's open. Don't do that!!!

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Oh yes, I see what you're talking about, and I agree.

Taterhead, if you want to send me the mold I will see if I can cut some screws for it. I have replaced the screws on my H&G molds with stainless. I do keep all the original H&G screws, but I am not a collector. I use my molds so the stainless works better for me, especially changing out the proud screws on the bottom of some of the 4 cavity molds with screws that are flush.

Or if you can give me precise measurements I may be able to make it work.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Dragonheart

Taterhead, if you want to send me the mold I will see if I can cut some screws for it. I have replaced the screws on my H&G molds with stainless. I do keep all the original H&G screws, but I am not a collector. I use my molds so the stainless works better for me, especially changing out the proud screws on the bottom of some of the 4 cavity molds with screws that are flush.

Or if you can give me precise measurements I may be able to make it work.

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Oh, man! That's a great offer. Since I have all the screws working, I'll go ahead and run with it for now. VERY much appreciated.

To remove the lead from the mold face mix 50/50 ratio of standard 3% hydrogen peroxide and white vinegar. Apply the solution with a Q-tip and rub with a pencil eraser dipped in the solution. It may take you a few minutes, but the lead will dissolve. Then lube the mold surface as this solution is a super oxidizer and will cause rust. BTW: This is a very old solution for removing lead from a gun barrel. It will also add a patina to brass molds almost instantly.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by jsizemore

Don't hit the sprue plate to remove the sprue!!!!!!

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The instruction that came with Hensley & Gibbs molds states that the use of a lead hammer is the preferred method of opening a sprue plate.
On 6 and 8 cavity molds this is a must. There are instructions on this site on how to make them. Classic sticky section.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by LenH

The instruction that came with Hensley & Gibbs molds states that the use of a lead hammer is the preferred method of opening a sprue plate.
On 6 and 8 cavity molds this is a must. There are instructions on this site on how to make them. Classic sticky section.

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I didn't say don't use a hammer, mallet, stick, thumb, whatever to open the sprue plate, I'm saying, DON"T HIT THE SPRUE PLATE AFTER IT'S OPEN. Got it?

I had a mold that resembled the one in the picture purchased at a garage sale. I soaked it in WD-40 then got a bore bruch wrapped in fine steel wool and
ran it in each cavity until clean. I then polished the cavities with rubbing compound on a clean mop. The mold casted perfect bullets after that. I heavily smoked
all cavities before casting.

Yep only the handle bolt.

A little more progress. Modified a set of Lee 6 cavity handles by grinding them thinner. Pretty crude workmanship on my part, but seems serviceable. The location of the holes and diameter are good without modification.

The wood handles are already trying to slip off so I'll need to secure them with pins.

Now just need to figure out how to get lead off the mold faces, then should be ready to go. This old thing is growing on me. Such much for the project I didn't want!

Tomorrow looks good to warm up the furnace. I'll report back with some boolits pics.

https://s20.postimg.cc/w3ll3u1kt/20180414_195159.jpg

Read my previous post as to removing lead from the mold. Rubbing with the pencil lead in addition to the pencil eraser kept wet with the solution will help exposing new surface area for the solution to dissolve. As I said it is not super fast but it will remove all the lead, especially in the vent grooves and at the edge of the cavities where the lead tends to form. Do not be tempted to put the mold faces to a wire wheel, a wire wheel works fine for the exterior sides and bottom of a mold, but not on the cavities as it will round the surface edges.

I have a four cavity H&G #50 mold that I dearly love! That is an EXCELLENT w/c bullet for .38’s. Right now, that is one of my most used bullets.

FWIW
Dale53

The great thing for those that still load & shoot 38 is the #50 H&G had to be the mold they sold the most of because now you can find a really nice #50 dirt cheap, considering the quality of these molds.

I realized that I never got back to this thread. I did cast up about a 100 keepers from this mold. It casts nicely, but the sprue plate has a bit of a sloppy feel. It might be ever so slightly warped (or the top of the blocks are). As the sprue plate swings, it definitely has some tight and loose spots. Works as needed, though.

I need to spend more time removing lead the lead from the faces, especially the part near the leading driving band. Worked on it for about 20 minutes then lost patience. The lead is "beagling" it a bit. The leading driving band measures .361ish and the boolits taper to .359 to .360. 149 gr from 96-3-1 alloy.

Here is a pic after coated and sized. The #50 are the eggplant colored ones (Smoke's Traffic Purples laced with a touch of Jet Black. Color turned out kinda cool, by the way). The blue ones are the NOE 360-160-WC 360432 coated in Smoke's Signal Blue.

I have loaded the #50s over 2.8 gr 700-X. Hopefully will test them tomorrow.

https://s20.postimg.cc/6e4w5kutp/20180616_164045.jpg

They look good enough to me.