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I have 9mm mold (158g) for powder coated boolits.
Bought it on one of the group buys here. At the time, I was optimistic enough that I thought I have skills and time to powder coat.
I am admitting that my aspirations went too far.
:-)
so wanted to know if I can, some how, use my mold, that casts without grooves -- and then add groves with another tool.
Is that possible, what tool could do that?
thx
Not really, at least not in volume. But with some help I am sure we can get you powder coating acceptably. I found one of the most critical parts was the oven. The small ones list as convection but they really mean "heat rises". Getting one of the slightly larger ones with a true fan active convection makes a world of difference. Grab a roll of non stick aluminum foil while you are there. Next add some quality powder from smoke. While you are talking to him get him to toss in a bag of bb's just to make sure you get the right kind. Now add the right container with the 5 in a triangle. Cool whip is a good one to use. Using the right stuff is half the battle. Defiate from this list and it usually ends in frustration if you don't know what you are doing. Once you get a handle on it you can experiment to your hearts content.
a lathe lol seriously, perhaps a can-luring tool might work ... maybe
thx @BoolitHead, when you said "... while you are there... ", what did you mean? I am thinking I might not have good lists/ instructions on how/what tools I need and step by step process (I am one of those people with way below-average DIY skills, so need complete, 'cannot-be-misinterpreted' instructions)
I would suggest you post a good description of your current mold in the classified forum and try to find someone looking to trade a similar lube grooved mold for your grooveless mold.
While you are getting the oven..Quote:
Originally Posted by worker
Once you confirm you have these exact things and not others we can work on how to get it done.
Go to Corbin Bullet swaging. He makes cannelure and groove making tools.
Be well advised that tooling is not cheap.
CH4D also makes a cannelure tool.
Have you tried the bullets with alox ?
If there's someone local to you, they might be able to shorten your learning curve substantially.
PC is easy or post the mold in S&S and get what you need.
Thx for all the suggestion, looked it swaging
I am going to get another mold instead.
Cannelure tool seems like a useful tool to have in general.
Will look into it as well at some point.
Quote:
Originally Posted by jaguarxk120
I believe the main problem with adding a groove/cannalure to an already cast bullet is holding the bullet while a groove is installed (I thought of a dull tubing cutter). A proper size collet in a lathe may work, but do you have all the stuff for that? I would try two things. Alox a few and see if that works, and if that doesn't work, sell/trade the mold. In other words, if PCing and/or alox doesn't work, get another mold...
The OP's idea is almost the same and simpler than the conventional practice of rolling threads onto round stock to produce bolts, screws and all-thread. I've had the thought of building a crank-driven three-roller tool with very fine thread adjustment (for repeatable results) to roll boolits to a precise diameter and/or do modifications to the existing grooves. Some good and accurate designs have grooves too shallow for sufficient lube in a long barrel, or in your case, no grooves at all. Rollers with grooves of the desired dimensions and profile would be needed, but it should be a fairly simple operation. One detail that comes to immediately to mind, though, is that massaging that volume of lead around will have the effect of lengthening the boolit, causing cupping of the heel to some degree as well as closing of the crimp groove, possibly a shoulder forming at the base of the ogive from metal being displaced forward. It's certainly doable, it's just a matter of working out the details.
This could be a tricky operation to get right. Tolomg or pressing into the bullet will displace material that has to go some where else. This could lengthen bend and change dia of the bullet and affect balance. Machining them in removes metal and may also create an out of balance condition along with consistency issues with weight. A light knurl and liquid alox lube may be best.
Country Gent, you're quite right, I think for all practical purposes, a knurl and tumble lube is the simpler, quicker and much more convenient low tech option. A simple roll with a file on a firm flat surface will improve surface texture for adherence and retention of lube volume. For longer barrels, the lube could be modified with the addition of carnauba wax (reduces tackiness of dry LLA) and possibly powdered Teflon or graphite, or moly disulfide for added lubricity.
Roll-forming threads or lube grooves, material will be displaced and its movement must be directed. The final form (major and minor diameters) would both be controlled by the roller profile and can produce high quality results, but roll-"swaging" with a hand-crank roll former is not a high-volume production process. If the OP is looking to knock out a thou or two of shootable boolits with a minimum investment of effort and time, roll-knurling with a fine or medium cut file will do the job with a similar time cost as conventional sizing-and-lubing of a grooved boolit once one's technique is established.
PC'ing is easy with the right powder coat paint. Some of them do not work as well as others with the shake and bake method. I have found that if a powder does not cover well, tumble them again and it seems to work better the second time. Smoke's signal blue works better than any other color that I have tried.
Have you tried contacting one of our long time members here by the board name of waksupi?
While I've never had a need for his product, he is the "Trusted loob groove dealer" of Castboolits! Look him up and send him a PM. I'm sure he'll be of the utmost help.
Murphy
Get a decent power and a convection oven and you'll be surprised how easy PC is.
PM me if you have any questions.
I sent worker a pc application instruction sheet.. Hopefully he will get it another try .. many many people are having great success with pc bullets now ..
Don't laugh too loud, can do things with cast bullets in a small lathe. My mould for 404 cast bullets is plain based but I can turn a gas check shoulder on the base of them at the rate of over 100 in 20-30minutes.Quote:
Originally Posted by ascast
The RCBS bullet puller is the perfect collet tool for holding bullets in the three jaw chuck on a lathe. Just replace the handle of the puller with a common 9/16" bolt the head of which can be reached through the lathe head centre using a socket on an extension or as I have made, a piece of rod squared at the end to hold a 9/16" socket and a T handle other end. The puller die body runs perfectly true in the lathe chuck and real quick to insert and tighten a cast bullet nose first in the puller collet. Once the tool is setup in the tool post to cut the correct sized shoulder for a gas check its simple and quick to change bullets and run the lathe tool in a couple of mm for the depth of the check. Because the cutting tool is only moved parallel to the bullet the gas check shoulders are cut consistently to dimension.
I have a rotary head knurling tool for a lathe tool post which would impart a choice of fine, medium or coarse knurling in a similar one pass operation on a plain cast bullet held in the bullet puller collet. I have often thought of using my setup to hollow point my cast bullets and insert a coloured plastic air soft BB pellet. Would look cool if nothing else. Off course it would depend on how much of the bullet shank is protruding from the collet as to how much knurling could be applied. Could also cut lube grooves with same setup if wished, shape a tool to cut 2 or 3 at once even.
This is the bullet puller setup, first image showing gas check shoulder just turned on a bullet base and second image of bullet inserted for hollow pointing and head of bolt just visible that replaces the puller handle.
https://i.imgur.com/aRbIdgu.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/AQGwvS1.jpg
Go for it with powder coating! It’s great. A lot easier and less time except for getting another mold. Then you will have to think about boolit lubing. That takes time and money to get set up.
I use a regular oven, not convection. I don’t use BBs. I don’t need them. I use a silicone pad, but non stick aluminum foil might be better, because it lays flatter. Keep your powder extremely dry. I add silica gel packs from China that are really cheap to all my powders and more in a second bag I put the first into.
Try it you’ll like it.