Corrosive primers vs black powder
I know the mantra for cleaning my flintlock after shooting black powder.What is the correct technique for cleaning ,lets say, a 303 SMLE after shooting corrosive primed mil-surp ammo? Do you just concentrate yer effort in the bore itself,or do you have to "wash" everything that accumulates any soot like the bolt face,mag feed rails,etc?
de-ionized water vs distilled water
Would de-ionized water dissolve salts better than distilled water? If so,would those alone,without soaps and detergents be all you need?
Best cleaner for corr primers and BP
For the last 5 years I have been using Murphy's oil Soap for cleaning BP and corrosive primers. 1/4 cup Murphy's Oil Soap Concentrate to 1 gallon water.
This cuts BP fouling better than anything I have ever used. I have been shooting BP firearms since 1957. When I clean the Sharps, two saturated patches and follow with clean patches until they come out clean.
I shoot Bulgarian 7.62x54r ammo in my Finn M39. Swab the bore with MOS, then dry the bore. Clean with Hoppe's #9 with a bronze brush and use patches until they come out clean. I always let the rifle set for three days and if the bore looks dusty, I would repeat the process. I have never had to clean the M39's bore twice.
Kordite affects the throat
Quote:
Originally Posted by
rugerman1
I have a related question,
Would corrosive primers and cordite as used in British military ammo in the early to mid part of the 1900's affect the throat any more than the bore? I have a SMLE with a nice leade/throat but a little pitting about 4 to 8 inches down the bore.Trying to get a grasp on why the throat is better looking than the bore itself.
Cordite Burns VERY hot is noted throughout history as a erosion maker in area right ahead of the chamber and most war-used Enfields suffer from their own ammo.
Many cast bullet users cast as large as .315 for their Enfields
yodar