Boolits for .357 Carbine

Hi everyone;

My father and I are fairly active shooters and reloaders, and due to the rising cost of jacketed bullets I've been looking into trying some commercial cast boolits before potentially investing in casting equipment.

Getting to the point, my favorite rifle is a Ruger 77/357 that we've put some elbow grease and modifications into. It retains the factory 18.5 inch barrel. After reading some of Glen Fryxell's writings on cast boolits, I've made a few potential selections from around the internet.

1) For velocities exceeding 1500 fps, I was thinking that Stateline Bullets' 158gr #H&G 51 replica in 16 BHN would be a good choice. Link: https://statelinebullets.com/shop/ca...38-158-gr-swc/

2) For velocities anywhere below that, I had my eye on Missouri Bullet Co.'s coated 158 SWC in their 12 BHN alloy. Link: http://missouribullet.com/details.ph...ry=9&keywords=

I joined Cast Boolits just recently to see if I could get some pointers. Does anyone have any experience with these boolits, and perhaps a few tips or suggestions?

Thanks in advance.

I have the gun, but haven’t had time to play with it yet. First thing I’ll load is some coated 158gr swc from Blue Bullets.

Mostly posting to follow the discussion.

I shoot a 357 lever, so your bullet shape choices may be different from mine. I usually shoot a plain base 158 grain RNFP in lower velocity loads (38 or 38+P pressures). For true mag loads, I would suggest gas checked, coated, or plated/jacketed fodder. For the first I would look for the Thompson gas checked SWC. Coated you could just order the Missouri version of whatever bullet shape or weight you like. Plated it is hard to beat the Rocky Mountain Reloading offerings, high quality at a modest price.

http://missouribullet.com/details.ph...214&category=5

You’re welcome.

I wouldn't get hung up on hardness. I run 12 bhn bullets at full velocity out of a Marlin 1894C. But I cast them myself and control everything. Fit and proper lube are what's needed at 357 velocities.

Thank you to everyone who's replied, I appreciate all your suggestions.

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Originally Posted by dragon813gt

I wouldn't get hung up on hardness. I run 12 bhn bullets at full velocity out of a Marlin 1894C. But I cast them myself and control everything. Fit and proper lube are what's needed at 357 velocities.

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Dragon, is that bullet with a plain base or a GC? Also I believe MBC says they use Thompson Blue hard lube with all their noncoated projectiles, do you think that would hold up to the magnum velocities?

Went out to the range yesterday with some of MBC's coated PPC#2 wadcutters in my dad's Model 12. We loaded up 25 of them to see how they'd work. Didn't see any noticeable leading, but there was a a faint smear located on the 12 o'clock of the barrel. Before shooting these, we loaded a pulled a few dummy rounds, without seeing any shaving of the HiTek. One thing I will say is I did the smash test on of the the wadcutters, and after hitting it I was able to see some lead through cracks in the coating. Does this mean that MBC isn't applying it correctly? I definitely want to make sure the coating is on there correctly before taking it up to magnum velocities on a different bullet design.

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Originally Posted by brewer12345

I shoot a 357 lever, so your bullet shape choices may be different from mine. I usually shoot a plain base 158 grain RNFP in lower velocity loads (38 or 38+P pressures). For true mag loads, I would suggest gas checked, coated, or plated/jacketed fodder. For the first I would look for the Thompson gas checked SWC. Coated you could just order the Missouri version of whatever bullet shape or weight you like. Plated it is hard to beat the Rocky Mountain Reloading offerings, high quality at a modest price.

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Isn't there a maximum velocity limit on RMR's platings? I'd looked at their stuff before, but I think I decided that for the lower speeds I might as well with regular or HiTek coated lead loads. I have no casting equipment currently, so any lead loads I try will have to be commercially made.

I believe MBC says the HiTek coating has a speed limit of 1750 fps in rifles and I'm getting past 1850 that with my 158gr loads, so I'm hesitant to try the coated bullets at magnum velocity.

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Originally Posted by kipk49

Isn't there a maximum velocity limit on RMR's platings? I'd looked at their stuff before, but I think I decided that for the lower speeds I might as well with regular or HiTek coated lead loads. I have no casting equipment currently, so any lead loads I try will have to be commercially made.

I believe MBC says the HiTek coating has a speed limit of 1750 fps in rifles and I'm getting past 1850 that with my 158gr loads, so I'm hesitant to try the coated bullets at magnum velocity.

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You have chrono'd 1850+? Those would be pretty hot loads even from a rifle.

Personally, I would buy a couple 500 bullet boxes of cast or coated stuff you know will work fine for lower velocity loads from MBC and then throw in however many different kinds of bullets you would like to try in their 100 bullet sample packs into the shipment. Worst that can happen is that you have a somewhat prolonged cleaning session to get lead out if things go wrong. Considering that it is pretty common for people to Hitek or powder coat bullets for real rifle calibers (30-30, 30-06, etc.), I would be surprised if the coated did not hold up to whatever velocities you can get out of a 357 rifle. My next go round with loading will be tumble lubed and gas checked bullets for 30-06 with weights ranging from 118 to 200 grains and planned velocities from 1500 to 2000+. It can be done.

As for the velocity limits on RMR, I guess you won't know unless you try.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by kipk49

Dragon, is that bullet with a plain base or a GC? Also I believe MBC says they use Thompson Blue hard lube with all their noncoated projectiles, do you think that would hold up to the magnum velocities?

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They're plain base. Haven't found a need for a gas check either. Shot them w/ LLA, 45/45/10, BLL, 2500+, Carnauba Red and a 50/50 mix of 2500+ & CR. I've never used the lube MBC uses so I don't know if it will perform. I do know that the bullet manufacturers use hard lubes that stand up to shipping. They're rarely if ever the best option.

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Originally Posted by brewer12345

You have chrono'd 1850+? Those would be pretty hot loads even from a rifle.

Personally, I would buy a couple 500 bullet boxes of cast or coated stuff you know will work fine for lower velocity loads from MBC and then throw in however many different kinds of bullets you would like to try in their 100 bullet sample packs into the shipment. Worst that can happen is that you have a somewhat prolonged cleaning session to get lead out if things go wrong. Considering that it is pretty common for people to Hitek or powder coat bullets for real rifle calibers (30-30, 30-06, etc.), I would be surprised if the coated did not hold up to whatever velocities you can get out of a 357 rifle. My next go round with loading will be tumble lubed and gas checked bullets for 30-06 with weights ranging from 118 to 200 grains and planned velocities from 1500 to 2000+. It can be done.

As for the velocity limits on RMR, I guess you won't know unless you try.

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For my 158gr loads, I'm using the maximum allowable charge of Vihtavuori N110; if memory serves right it's 15.9 grains. On a side note, N110 is about the cleanest powder I've ever seen. After 100 rounds of full house 158 jacketed loads the barrel still looks like it's unfired, and there's almost zero powder residue.

As I said earlier we picked up some HiTek wadcutters for my dad's Model 12 and I have some concerns over whether or not they were properly coated, so I think I'll hold off on getting any more coateds from them until I get some more rounds downrange. From what I've heard, their 158gr bullets in the Brinnell 12 alloy may be a good choice for the rifle, so I think I'll pick up some of those sooner or later.

We tried some Berry's plated bullets in the Model 12 and got some stupendously high standard deviations for velocity. As for the maximum velocity of a plated bullet, what actually happens when you overspeed them? Does the plating come off and leave you with horrendous leading?

+1 on what Dragon said. I'm shooting PC'd plain-base RNFPs (Arsenal 360-162RF) cast from 1 part COWW to 2 parts range scrap (12-14 Bhn) at near-max from a Rossi 92. Good accuracy, no leading. Haven't gotten around to setting up the chrono but, from published data, velocity should be somewhere around 1500 fps.

Bill

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Originally Posted by dragon813gt

They're plain base. Haven't found a need for a gas check either. Shot them w/ LLA, 45/45/10, BLL, 2500+, Carnauba Red and a 50/50 mix of 2500+ & CR. I've never used the lube MBC uses so I don't know if it will perform. I do know that the bullet manufacturers use hard lubes that stand up to shipping. They're rarely if ever the best option.

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I found the Thompson Blue lube for sale on Midway; reviewers seem to think it's about the best of the commercial hard lubes, so it looks like it should be a decent choice. I think I'll give a carton of their 12 BHN SWCs or RNFPs a shot and see what happens.

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Originally Posted by Kraschenbirn

+1 on what Dragon said. I'm shooting PC'd plain-base RNFPs (Arsenal 360-162RF) cast from 1 part COWW to 2 parts range scrap (12-14 Bhn) at near-max from a Rossi 92. Good accuracy, no leading. Haven't gotten around to setting up the chrono but, from published data, velocity should be somewhere around 1500 fps.

Bill

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Do you think I would be able to push the velocity up much higher than 1500? Obviously, I'd start low with the cast bullets but eventually try and work my way up towards the jacketed velocities I was getting with N110. Using Vihtavuori's data, I'm chronoing 1850-70 fps out of my rifle with 158 gr XTPs.

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Originally Posted by kipk49

We tried some Berry's plated bullets in the Model 12 and got some stupendously high standard deviations for velocity. As for the maximum velocity of a plated bullet, what actually happens when you overspeed them? Does the plating come off and leave you with horrendous leading?

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I have never done so, but I think that is what happens.

So if you are leery of overdoing it with plated, your choices are coated (find another supplier if you don't like MBC, Acme?), gas checked lead (might be expensive), or stick with jacketed. You also have to decide how worried you really are about leading. If you fool around with cast long enough, you probably will have to eventually deal with some leading.

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Originally Posted by brewer12345

If you fool around with cast long enough, you probably will have to eventually deal with some leading.

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If you lead up a barrel w/ pistol calibers you're really doing something wrong. Even the high pressure magnums are easy to cast for. Rifles is where leading potentially enters the equation. Not sizing to the throat and lube failure can lead to lots of cleanup.

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Originally Posted by brewer12345

So if you are leery of overdoing it with plated, your choices are coated (find another supplier if you don't like MBC, Acme?), gas checked lead (might be expensive), or stick with jacketed. You also have to decide how worried you really are about leading. If you fool around with cast long enough, you probably will have to eventually deal with some leading.

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I suppose I'll just have to pick up a box or two of some various bullets and see how fast they can go. About how many rounds will it take before I start to see leading? If a load is going to lead badly, will I see it start to form within 25 shots?

It could lead badly in one shot. You need to check often but only you can decide what the number is.

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Originally Posted by dragon813gt

It could lead badly in one shot. You need to check often but only you can decide what the number is.

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Alright, I'll be sure to keep an eye out when making ladder loads. The 25 wadcutters out of the revolver seemed to leave the barrel clean.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by kipk49

Do you think I would be able to push the velocity up much higher than 1500? Obviously, I'd start low with the cast bullets but eventually try and work my way up towards the jacketed velocities I was getting with N110. Using Vihtavuori's data, I'm chronoing 1850-70 fps out of my rifle with 158 gr XTPs.

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I shoot a 190 grain wfn at 1800 fps out of a 16" Rossi carbine. It is truly a top end load, but no problem.

Edit: Oh, and btw, that is a 9 bhn pb bullet with a pb gas check installed. :bigsmyl2:

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Originally Posted by outdoorfan

I shoot a 190 grain wfn at 1800 fps out of a 16" Rossi carbine. It is truly a top end load, but no problem.

Edit: Oh, and btw, that is a 9 bhn pb bullet with a pb gas check installed. :bigsmyl2:

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I'm not even going to ask what load you're using :veryconfu

Quote:

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Originally Posted by kipk49

Do you think I would be able to push the velocity up much higher than 1500? Obviously, I'd start low with the cast bullets but eventually try and work my way up towards the jacketed velocities I was getting with N110. Using Vihtavuori's data, I'm chronoing 1850-70 fps out of my rifle with 158 gr XTPs.

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Never tried N110 but all my loading manuals show a bit over 1800 fps as tops for .357 (jacketed or cast) in any rifle...and that's with a compressed charge of H110/WW296. If you're getting decent accuracy in that velocity range, more power to you but I've never had success pushing anything much past 1500 fps...rifle or (IHMSA) handgun. Bill

Lilgun. No problem.

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Originally Posted by outdoorfan

Lilgun. No problem.

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The problems w/ that powder are well known. It's a use at your own risk proposition. I didn't find the slight increase in velocity over H110/W296 to be worth it.

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Originally Posted by dragon813gt

The problems w/ that powder are well known. It's a use at your own risk proposition. I didn't find the slight increase in velocity over H110/W296 to be worth it.

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I am aware of reported issues with revolvers, but not rifles. Details?

Supposedly some people have said that Lilgun burns so hot that the barrel is really hot after fewer shots than they perceived it should have taken to reach those temperatures.

I have cautiously used Lilgun with no problems whatsoever that I'm aware of. Certainly, my barrels do not overheat quickly like has been reported. I'm in no way calling anyone a liar. I believe them. All I'm saying is it hasn't happened to me.

Furthermore, I have found Lilgun to give me a nice gain over H110. Not just a slight increase. But that has been my experience. YMMV.

It may not be a problem but a friend I shoot with has a 77/357 and has mentioned the magazine restricts cartridge overall length somewhat. Might want to check this if you intend to load the mag with the cast loads.

I'm one of the ones that have had Lil'Gun overheat a barrel. To the point where you couldn't touch it. Forcing cone erosion is the major issue. If someone wants to use the powder then have it. But they should be aware that there are known issues.

Thanks for sharing. Someday my opinion my change, but for right now, so far so good.

I should also mention that I probably don't fire more than 100-200 of those full power rounds in one calendar year out of my .357 Rossi 92.

I have a "plinker" practice load that I use for most of my practice.

Lil gun is the best powder for 158 grain and heavier bullets. Number one - velocity. Number two - accuracy. Number three - low pressure means long case life. I have cases on their 7th reload with no signs of deterioration.

I shoot a plain base Lee 158-rf at 2000 fps with 10 shot 3 moa groups @ 100 yards. 2000 fps w/ .16 BC is just about optimum for this cartridge as far as max muzzle energy, flat shooting and retained energy at 200 yards. Heavier bullets lob more, start with less energy and their higher BC only catches up to the faster bullet's energy around the 200 yard mark. Lighter bullets may start off with similar energy as the Lil' Gun 158 combo, but they have 20% less energy at 200 yards and blow around in the wind more.

My accurate plain base 158 load is 4% Sb, Smoke's PC, water dropped after baking, .3595 size shooting only the heavy bullets after sorting. 5 shots well under an inch at 50 yards.

The gas check SWC is less accurate than the plain base RF. The ranch dog 135-rf gas check is good for 10 shots into 2 MOA at 100 yards at 2100 fps but doesn't quite hit as hard at longer range. The slow twist Rossi lets you get some amazing speed and accuracy with plain base bullets.

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Originally Posted by wmitty

It may not be a problem but a friend I shoot with has a 77/357 and has mentioned the magazine restricts cartridge overall length somewhat. Might want to check this if you intend to load the mag with the cast loads.

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I've never run into a problem with it, but I'll be sure to keep an eye out. If nothing else, I don't particularly mind single-loading the rifle if I'm at the range.

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Originally Posted by mnewcomb59

Lil gun is the best powder for 158 grain and heavier bullets. Number one - velocity. Number two - accuracy. Number three - low pressure means long case life. I have cases on their 7th reload with no signs of deterioration.

I shoot a plain base Lee 158-rf at 2000 fps with 10 shot 3 moa groups @ 100 yards. 2000 fps w/ .16 BC is just about optimum for this cartridge as far as max muzzle energy, flat shooting and retained energy at 200 yards. Heavier bullets lob more, start with less energy and their higher BC only catches up to the faster bullet's energy around the 200 yard mark. Lighter bullets may start off with similar energy as the Lil' Gun 158 combo, but they have 20% less energy at 200 yards and blow around in the wind more.

My accurate plain base 158 load is 4% Sb, Smoke's PC, water dropped after baking, .3595 size shooting only the heavy bullets after sorting. 5 shots well under an inch at 50 yards.

The gas check SWC is less accurate than the plain base RF. The ranch dog 135-rf gas check is good for 10 shots into 2 MOA at 100 yards at 2100 fps but doesn't quite hit as hard at longer range. The slow twist Rossi lets you get some amazing speed and accuracy with plain base bullets.

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What lube are you using for your full power loads? Those are some pretty impressive numbers on the plain base boolits.

Also, do you have a general idea of what BHN your high power alloy is running?

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Originally Posted by outdoorfan

Thanks for sharing. Someday my opinion my change, but for right now, so far so good.

I should also mention that I probably don't fire more than 100-200 of those full power rounds in one calendar year out of my .357 Rossi 92.

I have a "plinker" practice load that I use for most of my practice.

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He makes a valid point. If someone wants maximum performance for a crittter load, the negatives may not be very concerning for a box or two a year.

I suspect I am like most, and my carbines are primarily used for plinking with low level .38 loads. I do not hunt with them but it is interesting to see what can be accomplished if the need arose.

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Originally Posted by mnewcomb59

Lil gun is the best powder for 158 grain and heavier bullets. Number one - velocity. Number two - accuracy. Number three - low pressure means long case life. I have cases on their 7th reload with no signs of deterioration.

I shoot a plain base Lee 158-rf at 2000 fps with 10 shot 3 moa groups @ 100 yards. 2000 fps w/ .16 BC is just about optimum for this cartridge as far as max muzzle energy, flat shooting and retained energy at 200 yards. Heavier bullets lob more, start with less energy and their higher BC only catches up to the faster bullet's energy around the 200 yard mark. Lighter bullets may start off with similar energy as the Lil' Gun 158 combo, but they have 20% less energy at 200 yards and blow around in the wind more.

My accurate plain base 158 load is 4% Sb, Smoke's PC, water dropped after baking, .3595 size shooting only the heavy bullets after sorting. 5 shots well under an inch at 50 yards.

The gas check SWC is less accurate than the plain base RF. The ranch dog 135-rf gas check is good for 10 shots into 2 MOA at 100 yards at 2100 fps but doesn't quite hit as hard at longer range. The slow twist Rossi lets you get some amazing speed and accuracy with plain base bullets.

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May I ask? Where did you get the .16 BC figure? Lee?

I shoot a 190 grain wfn. It's the MP-C358-180-RF. I've calculated that BC in actual tests at .16, so I suspect your shorter bullet will be less. But I'm not calling you a liar if you've done your own testing.

I've chronographed my loads at 100, 200, and 300 yards.

Hey outdoorfan, the figure is from Lee, but is very close to true.

I am interested in your 190 grain load and we have talked a little bit before about your load. I don't doubt your BC figures and I think it is awesome that you proved that Rossis will stabilize that heavy of a bullet when cast with a soft alloy. But, one thing to keep in mind is that you are running a soft alloy and therefore your bullet slumps upon firing. This changes the ogive and BC because more of your nose sets back. Your front driving band is surely growing and the ogive is getting shorter.

Your nose is approximately .3 inches long sticking out of the case. You are seeing a lower BC with softer alloy because your approximately .1 inch driving band and .2 inch ogive are changing under acceleration to .2 inch driving band and .1 inch ogive. Basically WFN bullets with soft alloy turn into "ogival wadcutters" when shot at high pressure with slower powders. I will upload some pics of recovered bullets of harder and softer alloys where we will be able to see just how far back a bullet nose slumps at 35k psi. I have some nice examples of the ranch dog 135-rf and the Lee 158-rf.

If you were to run hardball alloy I bet you would have 75-100 fps more at 200 yards. From memory I remember you saying you are about 1800 fps at the muzzle and 1160 fps at 200 yards. On my calculator this calculates at .18 BC. But with hardball the lube grooves won't completely disappear, and that means with hardball your bullet will be longer when it leaves the muzzle. You may see loss of stability if you are borderline stable now because a longer bullet at the same weight needs a faster twist.

My water dropped 4%Sb alloy probably comes up to 18-20 BHN from 410 degrees. Therefore the bullet after being fired, and especially the ogive of the bullet, looks relatively unchanged compared to when I had used a softer alloy.

Attachment 215930Attachment 215931

These green 158s are BHN 9 range scrap fired at about 20k psi. Notice how much ogive is lost already. The traditional lube 158 is wheel weight alloy over 14.5 grains of 2400. Notice that it slumped more than the range scrap at 38 +p pressures. The green 135s are 2/2/96 alloy shot out of a 6" revolver. Not even my hot load of 2400. Just 9 grains of power pistol at 28-33k psi. Imagine how dramatically different they would look with 17.7 grains of 2400 and 10 more inches of barrel to accelerate and slump in. The traditional lube 135 was water dropped wheel weights and it slumped a little less than the 2/2/96 even though it was shot with the full power 2400 load. The more they slump, the worse the BC. Harder bullets out of the same mold will always have a better BC. I will have to dig around and find the harder bullets later tonight.

One very important part of shooting cast bullets is bullet to gun fit. If a bullet is too small, even .001" you may get barrel leading. Fit is much more important than BHN. I shot a few rounds of 357 Magnum with 160 gr Lachmiller plain base SWC cast from a mix of wheel weights and range scrap, over a slightly over max load of Trueblue. The bullets were sized to fit my Taurus 357 and I got no leading. I stopped using that load because it was obviously too hot and the primers were pretty loose. I have also used heavy loads with plain based bullets in my 44 Magnums, up to 1,600 fps with no leading to speak of, but all my bullets are sized to fit my guns...

mnewcomb59,

Great explanation! Thanks for taking the time. I actually had it in the back of my mind that possibly my soft 9 bhn bullets are slumping. It's something I've only been aware of more recently.

Anyway, I'm sure you're right on there. Now I'm going to have to eventually check out what my loads with WD or HT 50/50 will do at those extended ranges.

I have seen at times where the 9 bhn bullet load starts to go unstable around 275 yards or so. I could just as easily HT them, then torch anneal the nose for hunting. But then I might be back to square one again. Lol! Looks like I eventually have more experimenting to do!

I should add that I'm about to experiment with high power paper patching in my 30-06 with both 14 bhn and 20 bhn bullets to see if there's any BC different down range, if I can get them to shoot, that is.

To the OP, sorry for the sidetrack.

I asked about the lil gun because I bought a few hundred Sierra 158 jsp jacketed and tried out some loads. They were very accurate and on paper should be thumpers inside 100 yards out of my 24 inch Rossi. Completely illegal for deer where I live, but I might get the chance with a hog one day. I noticed no issues with heat, but I did not fire more than 50 rounds. Most of my shooting with this thing is with far more plebian target loads.

Just my opinion, but unless you notice something that definitely doesn't seem right, I wouldn't worry about it.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by dragon813gt

I'm one of the ones that have had Lil'Gun overheat a barrel. To the point where you couldn't touch it. Forcing cone erosion is the major issue. If someone wants to use the powder then have it. But they should be aware that there are known issues.

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I use it in my hornet - compressed and way over load data levels. I get 2740 fps with a 55gr bullet using R-P cases in an oversized chamber. The barrel gets hot and so does the suppressor. The heating effect is the same as a full power 308 cartridge. But one day I accidently increased the powder charge a small amount and the barrel stayed cool! Go figure. That's the load I now use - the one that delivers 2740fps. One day a Winchester case slipped in. Primer pocket expanded!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by mnewcomb59

Hey outdoorfan, the figure is from Lee, but is very close to true.

I am interested in your 190 grain load and we have talked a little bit before about your load. I don't doubt your BC figures and I think it is awesome that you proved that Rossis will stabilize that heavy of a bullet when cast with a soft alloy. But, one thing to keep in mind is that you are running a soft alloy and therefore your bullet slumps upon firing. This changes the ogive and BC because more of your nose sets back. Your front driving band is surely growing and the ogive is getting shorter.

Your nose is approximately .3 inches long sticking out of the case. You are seeing a lower BC with softer alloy because your approximately .1 inch driving band and .2 inch ogive are changing under acceleration to .2 inch driving band and .1 inch ogive. Basically WFN bullets with soft alloy turn into "ogival wadcutters" when shot at high pressure with slower powders. I will upload some pics of recovered bullets of harder and softer alloys where we will be able to see just how far back a bullet nose slumps at 35k psi. I have some nice examples of the ranch dog 135-rf and the Lee 158-rf.

If you were to run hardball alloy I bet you would have 75-100 fps more at 200 yards. From memory I remember you saying you are about 1800 fps at the muzzle and 1160 fps at 200 yards. On my calculator this calculates at .18 BC. But with hardball the lube grooves won't completely disappear, and that means with hardball your bullet will be longer when it leaves the muzzle. You may see loss of stability if you are borderline stable now because a longer bullet at the same weight needs a faster twist.

My water dropped 4%Sb alloy probably comes up to 18-20 BHN from 410 degrees. Therefore the bullet after being fired, and especially the ogive of the bullet, looks relatively unchanged compared to when I had used a softer alloy.

Attachment 215930Attachment 215931

These green 158s are BHN 9 range scrap fired at about 20k psi. Notice how much ogive is lost already. The traditional lube 158 is wheel weight alloy over 14.5 grains of 2400. Notice that it slumped more than the range scrap at 38 +p pressures. The green 135s are 2/2/96 alloy shot out of a 6" revolver. Not even my hot load of 2400. Just 9 grains of power pistol at 28-33k psi. Imagine how dramatically different they would look with 17.7 grains of 2400 and 10 more inches of barrel to accelerate and slump in. The traditional lube 135 was water dropped wheel weights and it slumped a little less than the 2/2/96 even though it was shot with the full power 2400 load. The more they slump, the worse the BC. Harder bullets out of the same mold will always have a better BC. I will have to dig around and find the harder bullets later tonight.

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I did a test awhile back with those 190 grainers at 9 bhn and 20 bhn. No difference in velocity down range. The two hardness levels shot virtually identical as far as BC's go in my Rossi 92.