I will check my Lyman manual, edition number and when it was printed. It may be a typo in my book. What is the printed date of your Lyman Cast Bullet Handbook, 4th edition?
Printable View
I will check my Lyman manual, edition number and when it was printed. It may be a typo in my book. What is the printed date of your Lyman Cast Bullet Handbook, 4th edition?
Last chance for you not to be an ***. I've been at this long enough to be clueless, think I have it figured out, and then realize I have much to learn. And yes, I have multiple, worn manuals.....I just did not consult them. Several hundred pounds of lead have gone through my pots. Enough to take 356-120TC from severe leading to minimal leading in an HK polygonal rifled 9mm with nothing but range scrap and tin and the appropriate lube. I have also achieved lead free shooting with the same barrel with COWW and am now working through a couple of custom blends. All feats you have thus failed.
Civility would have dictated a response along the line of "possible typo, I worked up from the minimum published load in 'x' resource and had 'y' results". Because THAT was the question I asked.
I am now done with this thread and you are welcome to the last word.
Well, perhaps a review of your posts will clear up some of the misunderstanding. I see back on post #120 you said you were going to get a Lee 358-125-RF. But I do not see where you actually announced you were changing from the Lee 356-120-TC. The data would be different, but since you never really said anything, it would be hard to know what you were doing. You might consider that your lack of input resulted in this misunderstanding. Without good information..........
The 356 120tc doesnt cycle before 3.9 grains of hp38 in my glock, and this load still leads.
Load data for the 358-125-rf is approximately somewhere in between 3.9 and 4.3-4.4 depending on the approximation bullet to lyman mold #.
I'll shoot 20 at 4.0 this morning and report.
I thought canadians were supposed to be nice?
4 grains of hp38 with the 358 heat treated 125 RF still leaded a bit. Only shot 5 rounds though, but there are silver steaks, so I would expect some leading after 50 rounds or so.
The stock barrel shoots so bad with plated 355 that I'll probably buy an aftermarket anyway. It shoots all over the target at 25 feet. The 358 did much better.
I'll report once I have the new barrel, will test same load.
I just bought a wilson combat match barrel online. (ooch exchange rate, 300$ CAD+tax)
There seems to be good reviews for that barrel, and my OEM barrel shoots awesomely bad even with plated FMJ.
Will report asap.(probably next week or so).
Looks like it will not be delivered until the end of the week and I'll be busy with some training next weekend, so results won't come until monday feb 1st I guess. Will slug sunday, plunk test, and shoot monday. Will report after that.
got the barrel, had a chance to test the fit yesterday (but not to shoot).
Well made, drops in the glock perfectly, my FMJ and cast loads plunk test fine just like in the glock.
So far so good, still need to slug sunday and I'll see how it will chew 355 plated and 358 cast on monday.
Ok, the wilson barrel slugs around .3554 to .3556.
I'll test it with the 358 boolits, but maybe it's going to perform better with 357? 2.5 mils over is quite a step isnt it?
Will test tomorrow evening at the range. Will test .355 plated, and then .358 lead.
If they still lead, I'll try 357 lead next week. (I don't have much time to shoot with the baby and the business).
I shot 15 or so rounds in the wilson barrel and there didn't seem to be lead deposits in the last third of the barrel as it was the case with the oem barrel.
There was some black gunk in the first inch of the barrel. lube maybe? I don't know.
I then shot 80 or so fmj, checked the barrel again after, and there's no lead in there.
Success? Can't tell, but I'll shoot 50 or so next time and report.
The 358 lead bullets shoot much better than the 355 plated fmj. Much better groups.
The wilson also shoots better than OEM. (at least with plated reloads, and lead). Can't really say for commecial jacketed, I don't shoot that.
Will re-test some 45-45-10 coated bullets also, maybe they are going to work now with the rifled barrel.
Easier to TL vs pan lube, and if tl works, I'm probably not going to buy a 1000$ CAD star.
Seems to work with the wilson combat rifled match barrel.
358, 2500+ grease, no lead after 50 rounds. Good precision. (will confirm tomorrow after barrel cleaning, there seems to be gunk in there, but it looks like lube residue, should disappear with a few patches). Nothing in the second half of the barrel like there used to be with the OEM.
Lee 358 124 RF, hp38. 100% reliable in the glock.
Next try will be tumble lube with 45/45/10. If that works, much easier than the grease.
If it doesnt work, I'll give PC another try. (less toxic smoke).
Or, buy a star and use BAC....
Now that I have a load that works with grease, I can try to use alternatives, like PC or hitek.
Hitek didnt work with OEM barrel, but I'll try it again with that new barrel.
It's easier to process vs PC... but PC is thicker and offers more leading protection.
[smilie=w:Glad to see you finely getting results at the range.
I like/use the pc process with most of my pistol bullets anymore. No smoke, firearm stays cleaner/more accurate with longer round counts at the range. Pc'd bullets also seem more forgiving, I've started to go back and re-tested bullets/loads in firearms that I did with traditional size/lube methods. So far it's been a real eye opener to say the least. Have a beater 629 that I picked up in 2006???, anyway I've had time to do allot of test loads in it. Was just looking for plinking loads that would do minute of golfball/ 1 1/2" @ 25yds. After testing a bunch of bullets and several powder over the years I ended up with 2 plinking loads for that revolver. Went back and re-tested using the same 5 bullets and the same 7 powders that I used before. The only difference was now the bullets are pc'd. With the pc'd bullets I ended up with 13 different loads that would do 1 1/2" @ 25yds, that's huge, 2 vs 13!!!
[IMG]http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t...ps87d7149e.jpg[/IMG]
Bought a nm 1911 in 9mm last fall. Never had time to work up a load for it and finely got some free time. So I've been working on 9mm target loads. Ended up with this 125gr bullet doing 1100fps in that 5" bbl'd 1911. That 1911 is heavy enough that it's actually a pretty soft shooting load.
[IMG]http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t...pslprjmumk.jpg[/IMG]
Glad to see your up and running & good luck with your testing.
my main concern with grease is that It produces a lot of toxic smoke, and i always feel sick when i come back from the range. Even with the indoor range ventilation, I end up breathing too much smoke. I would need to shoot with a respirator.
I also generally dislike the die gumming up, and you cant really tumble clean the loaded rounds if they are lubed lead because corncob just sticks all around.
I will give hitek 2 coats another chance first, and if it fails, ill try pc again.
Now that you have the leading problem figured out, I imagine it will stop scraping the hi-tek coating off as well. Agreed with the smoke problem for grease lubes the PC rounds are much cleaner to me just time consuming. Glad you finally found a solution seems the barrel was indeed the issue.
I just cleaned the barrel and after getting rid of the lube and carbon ,I noticed a lot of patches of lead in the first inch of the barrel or so.
The rest of the barrel was clean.
I'll try the same load, same lube, with 357 bullets instead of 358. The barrel is +- .3555, so maybe 2.5 mils over is quite hard to fit into the barrel. It was definitely really hard to slug the barrel with a 358 bullet.
The lube and lead combo seem to work though, because the rest of the barrel was super clean.
I guess that 1.5 mils over might be easier to get into the barrel without leading?
Throat is smooth, lands are beveled.
Opinions?
"It was definitely really hard to slug the barrel with a 358 bullet."
Most folks like to use a soft lead, well lubricated slug much larger than the groove diameter. Easier to drive through, and certainly less chance for "spring back" and an error in reading the measured sample.
Did you start with a dry barrel, or did you attempt to condition the surface by running a patch with a little of your bullet lube on it? Not smeared on, just a hint of an application, since you have been having so much trouble with leading.
Yes, dry barrel. Should i run a patch with some lube before i shoot?
will report asap with the 357 sized. Possibly this week.