With that said I`ll have to try it.
Horace
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With that said I`ll have to try it.
Horace
I tried kroil in my rcbs 44-250-K and it took about six casts to get good bullets.
put it in my rcbs 38-150-SWC and i had wrinkles for half an hour when i got bored and sprayed the mold with brakekleen and moved on.
odd yes?
Jody
Kroil was the worst thing I've tried in any of my molds. Endless wrinkles, even after running the mold hotter than it should be, until I scrub it clean again. Complete waste of time, IMO, and gives the same results as any other oil in a mold.
Then again, I fix any mold that sticks, and don't rely on a release agent. I do lightly smoke all my molds, because they fill out better that way.
You guys talk in circles. Kano kroil or spotman kroil? Wrinkles from what low mold temp or kroil, are you sure? Some one please put nail this down? Thsi is the reason I seldom finish a thread here.
Steve
all i got was wrinkles, won't try it again.
Worked fine for me once up to proper mold temp. first few were wrinkled but then I got 500 perfect ones. I'll will be using Kroil from here on.
I have never cast a bullet in my life until last week. I had read this thread and decided to give it a go. I treated an old Lyman mold and a new Lee mold. I did "season" both on a hot plate by heating and cooling through two cycles. The Lyman mold dropped good bullets from the first one. The Lee hasn't dropped a good bullet yet. I'm wondering if mold material has an effect on the outcome? It certainly didn't cause any problems in the Lyman mold.
Hello, I believe it is because iron is porous and treating with kroil is like seasoning a cast iron skillet. Alum molds are much more dense at the atomic level to "season" as one would do with iron.
What in the world is the "atomic level"? Just how hot are you getting these molds?
Steve
well the lee mold has a die lube they ship with . I dont know what it is but clean it off with carb cleaner or some type solvent . then wash in dawn ,tide what ever to get the cleaner off. heat the lee to cast temp. put the Kroil on and let it heat DRY. then cast. You need the mold at about cast temp for it to work . I use a Qtip "papershaft kind" it seems it makes it easy and less mess and smoke .
It works I have done for several. Kroil has a stuff that is better but you cant afford it . Its about $80 gal . but works for life as release and lube
I have two Lyman steel moulds so treated for weeks now and plan on using tomorrow. Skeptical giddiness? Also have a new pair of heat resistant gloves to try.
prs
i found if I get the mold pretty warm, kroil it,it might even smoke and sizzle some, wipe off excess, heat it up to temp then cast. The first few might have a few wrinkles but after that its as good as they get ! When im done casting While the mold is still pretty hot, I oil it, NO sizzle this time, let it cool completly, Store it wet, in a zip lok baggy. Next time just heat in go ! It works on lee as well as brass and steel.
Years ago we used to do black oxide at work. Kroil was what they used, to stop the rusting process. I really hate the smell of it !
Mike
I have used kroil to remove stuck on lead from molds before, it works great for that but I always degrease before casting . Well I tried casting with kroil,,,,,,,,,,,Worst thing I have ever done to a good mold. Nothing but wrinkles. after about 50 wrinkled castings I let the mold cool and scrubbed it with laquer thinner.
I've used Koil in Lee molds without problems. Even sprayed it in hot molds--after a few casts great bullets. Smell was nice, too.
.
Only used it in Lee molds, Lymans are not a problem for me.
I'm like 175lt2, I have used Kroil to get between lead and the mold for removal, even soaked overnight. Never used it as a release. Have to admit, I don't own a thermometer. I use an RCBS bottom-pour, and set the temp dial to 800 or a little below. I have smoked cavities before, but lately I cast fast as I can without shearing the sprue, and they cast clean and drop freely. I might try this on a stubborn mold, but last session I cast ~1100 .44s (40lbs) without a hitch. Hard to argue with results. I think proper temp and rate are key. Also, I've found that adding1-2% tin to my WW drastically increases fillout. The only voodoo I do to molds anymore is clean with alcohol and Q tips prior to casting. Ive found ANY oil in the cavities will impede fillout and lead to hanging!
I am also interested in the state chemical product called "Dry" I have several cans from a past deal. Has anyone else had else tried this? I will casting later on this week and give my 2cents worth
Jeepyj
I'm such a rank beginner, I hesitate to weigh in on this. I have 2 lee molds (2 cavity) that I could NOT get to drop consistent boolits with complete fill-out. I tried everything I could think of, or read about in the forum. But I have a 3 cavity iron mold in 358 (a Cramer 25A) that I could hardly foul up. So....
I Kroiled the 2 Lee molds and VOILLA! MANY MANY GOOD BOOLITS!
I'm sold. I didn't even make much of a effort to clean the Kroil out if the cavities. Just a light wipe with a paper towel. It took 5 or 6 drops, then I became a "boolit casting machine".
Krazy. It makes no sense....
Stan
shotman,
I'm new at this, so work with me here. You are using the Kroil like a cooking spray, spray on mold let evaporate and pour. Just trying to see the picture here. And for storage fluid film or motor oil.
Take care