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Nice looking rifle! I build a machine rest once. Mine wasn't very sophisticated but it did the job. I made a remote trigger device using a syringe. I eventually got to the place where I could fire the gun from a bench using a rest bag just as well. The trigger was the tricky part with my old Lee Enfield - too stiff for bench shooting. A friend had a target rifle he was using for hunting. I kept telling him the trigger was too light and he kept saying he shoots good with it like it was. One day he had an accidental discharge (gun fired before he was ready) - then he believed me.
Anyway, mine had a thick recoil pad and a soft padded U-shaped fore-arm rest with a strap to stop the gun from jumping out the rest.
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a while ago i got a sort of press from the scrapyard for free , and i wanted to convert this press into a bulletsizer.
first i had to do some cleaning and repairing , then i repainted it.
made me a adapter , for the m 16 bolds i made earlier , the ones in 6.60 to 6.45 mm.
made me a brass disc to get the bullets start straight in the die , and a brass stem to push them through.
i really like how it turned out , its better then the sizer i made earlier , the one that mounted in the reloading press.
foto 1 lets you see the press ...
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and the press in action...
foto 1 is the adapter and my previous made bold with polished hole for sizing.
i have these bolds in 6.60 , 6.55, 6.50 and 6.45 mm.
nice thing about this is that one could make a lot of these push trough sizers for pennies and they actually work very well.
as mentioned earlier i size in three steps , i have to go from 6.68 to 6.45 mm , and in one step it would be to much for the bullet.
i put in a bullet with my fingers and then lay a brass disc on it for a square push , when the bullet is in the sizer i take a brass stem to push it through .
in the last foto you can see that the bullet comes out with sharp edges , it measures 6.45 mm.
i didnt lube the bullets for this sizing , it takes no real effort to push them through so i dont think i need the lube.
when the bullet is paperpatched it will be sized once more in a lyman lubrisizer , so any inperfections will be adressed then.
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so , up for another challenge...
bought me another swede last week , a husqvarna m38 from 1942 , i bought it from a german gundealer.
the rifle seems to be in good shape and looks like its never issued , seems to be unfired.
had some cartridges like in previous posts , that i made for the cg 63 rifle and went to the range , this husqvarna has the open sights btw.
i fired some 35 shots and all the shots were wayyyyy to low , even with the setting at 100 mtr .
i will try this load again and see what will happen , if it stays low i think i will take some material of the frontsight .
what i did noticed is that the loads used are very mild in the cg 63 , but not so in the m 38.
the cg 63 has almost no recoil and handles like a .22 rimfire rifle with the described load , but the m 38 has a kick to it with the same load ... i think it has to do with the smaller weight , a shorter barrel and a faster twist.
hmmm... got some experimenting to do.
im gonna mount a scope on the m 38 and this will be a time correct combination , the scope is a "jena zielvier" sniperscope , like used on the german k 98 k rifle , and the mount will be a sidemounted type 1 mount , as used on the husqvarna m41 rifle.
for now i have the scope and sharpshootersbelt , and waiting for the mount to come in.
scope and mount are both reproductionmodels according to the original design , originals are scarse and very expensive.
now im gonna roll me some more bullets for my next try out tomorrow .
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this is the scope , a reproduction carl zeiss jena zielvier .
nice quality all steel scope that i bought at www.ww2scope.com , a compagnie in china , with good and fast delivery .
im very pleased with this scope.
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Do you measure the runout of your loaded cartridges?
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i dont know what a runout means , i think my language limits me there.
if you mean the overall lenght of the cartridge , its like a 75 mm and the final lenght is determined by closing the bolt.
mabey nice to mention here , ive made a batch of 15 cartridges and gave them to a good shooter.
they were shot at 100 mtr prone position out of a krag jorgenson rifle and with exellent results , so theres nothing wrong with the cartridge , good performer !
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Runout refers to how concentric the center of the bullet is in relation to the center of the case in a loaded round. Ideally there should be none, with the bullet pointing straight down the middle.
-Nobade
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edwin41,
A picture of a concentrically gauge can be found here..
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/220...ge?cm_vc=subv1
A cheaper way to check for run-out is to lay your loaded round on a flat surface such as a mirror at eye level say on top of a fridge (icebox) with the bullet pointing toward you..
Just roll the loaded round and you will see if you have excessive run-out" or not..
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ah , so thats a runout.
my thinking would be that the boldface would be square to the bore and when closing the bold the bullet would be wedged in the throath straight , in line with the bore that is.
the overall lenght is somewhat larger , the bullet slides deeper in the casing with the closing of the bolt.
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Without checking it, you would have to assume that your boolits are getting self-aligned into the leade of the rifling ........ or just letting chance do it's work.
But I digress: I want to congratulate you on your endeavors and journey thus far with the Swede rifles!!
It's been fun and educational reading your thread ....... inventors make the world better and you are very inventive!!
Best regards
Three 44s
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thanks three,
and yes , i do think that my bullets will self align perfectly in the troath of my rifle , the bullets are set too long and will
be forced in the casing by the rifles barrel.
their not touching the lands by the way , their stuck in the troath.
when i close the bold , and would open again , the bullet will stick in the troath and the casing will be extracted.
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made some changes in my patched bullets.
the coresize is now one step up , from about 6.45 mm to about 6.50 mm , the sized bullets look much sharper at this size , and the final step through the lubrisizer would make the patched bullet the correct size.
the paper is changed to chainbar paper that looks and feels much like notebook paper , but the common notebook paper is marked 80 grams paper , and this paper is marked 60 grams.
when i soak this in water i would have to roll them real quick , otherwise the paper falls apart.
for this paper i soak a sponge , and tab with my finger the patch on the soaking sponge so i can see the wet spots in the paper.
this leaves far more time for the rolling bit , i can roll the paper thight around the core and twist off the tail , tab the small overhang with my finger to the bulletbase , of course with the paperdisc attached to it.
it seems to be that this 60 grams paper shreds more easy at the muzzle , tiny bits are found .
over leading the bore i can be very short , there is absolutly none , the bore is bright and shiny and stays this way.
i also modified a old papercutter in a small and easy way , and now i can make a whole bunch of patches easy and fast.
took 1.5 millimeters of my frontsight , from the husqvarna m38 that is , cause it was shooting real low.
looking forward to testing this , got my mind set on the slide set at 100 mtr with impact as aimed, we will see how this turnes out .
for now , i promissed someone to build him a duelling tree for .22 rimfire ammo , got to come up with some ideas first.
projects projects , we all have enough of them dont we ?
greetings from holland , and a merry christmas to go with it !
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Looking forward to your test results, edwin41. Merry Christmas to you too and all the best for the new year.
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so , had some time to make me the "duelling tree " , and this is what i came up with.
its not completly ready , its missing some set screws , but i will find them next week or so.
the targets have been threaded in the rods , so i can set them in an angle if desired and the rods have a counter weight to determine how fast the targets will move when hit , that are the black pieces on the grey rods.
the whole assembly can be adjusted for angle due to the screws in the base , the base is solid steel for stability.
theres also a extra stabilisation for side pressures , this is a metal strip with adjustable feet and its not in the pictures.
i hope it will work , as said its for .22 caliber , otherwise i will have to chance it a bit but it looks allright.
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That looks pretty good! Does it (or will it) have spare parts in case it gets hit? Or is it able to withstand hits from a 22?
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the target are solid steel discs , i think they withstand the impact of a .22 rimfire.
the steel rods you see are also solid steel , they are only threaded at the end to give the targets a certain angle , the whole assembly can tilt forward due to the adjustable feet , and so the targets wont be standing straight if not adjustable.
if neccesary it would be easy to make some spareparts though.
in the pictures its not easy to see , but the whole assembly is about 65 inch high by the way.
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Thanks. So it's boolit proof. Do the arms swing away and stay behind the upright support? And will it swing if the arm is hit? I like this idea.
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the idea is that both shooters get 4 targets , if one target is hit it swings to the other shooter position , so he will have 5 targets.
the winner would be the one with no targets left.
i think i take it along next week or so , to try it out , starting at the 100 mtr range.
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That's a great idea! I think would be a hit at shooting clubs. If you can perfect the swing so it doesn't bounce away from the other side (and swings all the way) you might be able to sell them to clubs.
You also look into the metallic silhouette targets and device a system then on hitting your target the opponents fallen target pops up again. That would be fun too.