It was weird. Then again, the results with thenbullets you coated for me are in a different thread here.
Oh well
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It was weird. Then again, the results with thenbullets you coated for me are in a different thread here.
Oh well
Oh, ok,"btroj",, how'ed i get in another thread? hehehe. Well back to RE-INTERING my post to this thread.
Ausglock told me to try bullet mold lube, so i got some from bayoubullets. It sure made a difference and its dry and white and does not get greasy and burnt dirty like other mold lube. Dropping lots better.
Glad that it has worked for you.
The stuff has very good temperature resistance and should provide mirror finish with cast alloys if lube is polished on with a soft cloth and when you have a ghostly white film residue on surfaces.
Polishing is not necessary, but application should be very sparing, as you dont need much for it to work well.
:coffeecom As far as my metallurgy goes is mixing WW with pure lead and that's about it. I do have 5 pounds of sulfur hanging out and thought I might experiment with it but the above post from hi tek says this is another thing that will mess up the coating.Quote:
TC - the list of hardeners has Cu at the top, S about halfway, BUT the lead will take more S than Cu. In my testing the Cu is better by a little. It is easier and don't flame or stink so much. The S also forms compound sulphite/sulfate with the Sb, Sn. CuSb is the only compound formed with Cu added.
Maybe I was reading the chart wrong but it looked like to be that as cast CU was 10BHN and S was 9BHN when water dropped but after that S had higher numbers. Week 1 CU=15BHN S=17BHN
Week 2 CU=15BHN S=18BHN.
But with air cooled alloy CU was at 10 after 4 weeks where S was at 9.
What about mixing both? Is that a possible option trying to get the best of both worlds or would you run into problems from copper sulfate?
Moving from pistol to 30 Carbine with green HT. Do the gas checks need to be coated or stay naked?
At 30 carbine velocity, you should be able to use un-checked.
Hi,
Generally, gas check are used to shield alloy from heat cutting and trying to prevent heat damage from high energy powders to Lead alloys.
As alloys are sized after final coating is done, there is no reason why gas checks cannot be coated,
if it also allows final sizing to be done with the gas checks on alloys.
If sizing cannot be done with Gas checks, then it would be difficult to coat and then size.
The coatings, all have a good heat shielding property, and the "metallics" offer better heat shielding, such as Red Copper, Bronzed Copper, Gold variants, and "Natural" coatings.
I suggest that you try a few and see if you can make it work.
The coatings should stick to most gas checks.
Please ensure, that coated projectiles are all dried very well before baking.
OK...I read this thread and bit. Ordered the kit from Bayu, found a convection oven in the thrift shop, & modified the rack with hardware cloth. Created an ugly wooden framed drying rack with 1x1 pine and more 1/4" hardware cloth. Found squeeze bottles and measuring cups in a hobby shop, and cast some 9mm 125 gr Lee TL bullets to test this all out.
Flying by the seat of my pants, with the directions from Bayu, youtube, and you fine folks...I think we have a winner. They look really nice, but now I have to load 'em up and shoot some. Wish me luck, I'll report back!
My camera blows...I'll see if I can get some shots though.
Clancy's, didnt you used to run with billy the kid, down in las cruses?
Glad your here, I went whole hog like that too.
Got a quick question. I recently ordered the Hi-Tek kit (Green). I have followed the directions to the letter, my question is. Does the final products look spotty on the bullet? I have coated twice and baked twice. They are the right color, and they pass the acetone test and smash test. No lead is visible it's just a swirl looking effect. I will try and get a picture uploaded but not making any promises. I was just wondering if this is normal. Thanks
What mix did you use?
So long as there is no bare lead, you should be good to go.
The 5-1-7 is a good all round mix. It gives a better finish than 5-1-5 for pistol bullets.
For rifle, I'd stay with 5-1-5 mix.
My latest beef is that the Keith type .44 boolits tend to collect the red copper in the shoulders and grooves. The clear remaining portion of the coating on the first application is thin and well distributed, and the mixture is shaken like nobody's business multiple times right up to the point it's introduced to the tub. The third thin coating looks OK, color-wise, except for lots of unseemly build up in areas where it's not doing any good.
The green has no such dramas, but I've far less of it.
Gold will do that too. I think it's the metallics. Black doesn't do it.
Just a little update with 11bhn. In my magnums 357,41,and 44 the alloy Ht combination is marginal at that bhn. I wanted to use them for hunting applications so really didn't want hardball. At full snot loads, the coating is stripped off by the rifling. The cure is to traditional lube too if you are running magnum velocities or move to hardball. I prefer the softer bhn so am lubing on top. One hole accurate in my 44 at 100yds. You MUST match alloy to application to be successful. If it leads with some of the better lubes like Felix, HT won't cure it. Put them together and wow. Just some info for you rifle guys.
I've been thinking about trying something like this. The coating seems to fail with fast powders and soft alloys where a normal lube works great. My thought were to try and get the best of both worlds, coat & lube the bullet and see how far I can go down. My plan was to try and push pure lead to 750fps out of my 9mm 33k psi 168gr keith style SWC. Probably only put one thin layer of coating on and my homemade lube.Quote:
Gold will do that too. I think it's the metallics. Black doesn't do it.
Just a little update with 11bhn. In my magnums 357,41,and 44 the alloy Ht combination is marginal at that bhn. I wanted to use them for hunting applications so really didn't want hardball. At full snot loads, the coating is stripped off by the rifling. The cure is to traditional lube too if you are running magnum velocities or move to hardball. I prefer the softer bhn so am lubing on top. One hole accurate in my 44 at 100yds. You MUST match alloy to application to be successful. If it leads with some of the better lubes like Felix, HT won't cure it. Put them together and wow. Just some info for you rifle guys.
Hi,
I was thinking, that if you are wanting to use coating and another lube, why don't you combine the two as one coating?
If the coating itself is causing drag inside barrel, and requires additional lubrication, you have a choice of using Extreme or 2-Extreme catalysts.
These two, would provide the toughness and with extra slip as well.
This is confirmed during sizing, as sizing becomes hardly any effort to complete when using the Extreme and 2-Extreme catalysts.
If you can, just ask Donnie for small sample of each to play with to test out with your application.
I would really appreciate your results after you have a play.
fast powder. slow powder. makes no difference. I have used everything from WST to 2400 and coated works with everything.
Super light loads through to full power teeth rattlers. coating works.