I use a wood mallet made from ash. Seems to be very durable so far.
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I use a wood mallet made from ash. Seems to be very durable so far.
I have been casting for a little over a year and wore out the Lee mallet that came with my used set up. I stopped by NOE a couple of months ago and picked up one of Al's mallets. What was left of the Lee went into the garbage! The NOE is a keeper! The PVC end is held in place with an "O" ring and is replaceable. I think this is the last mallet I will ever own:p
A small rawhide hammer. It doesn't mar anything.
Wooden Shovel handle wrapped with old leather belt
Wooden stick wrapped with 4 layers of soft red stag leather from Alps and covered with McNett CamoTape...soft https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...a3844f7c3e.jpg
Because I do “beat” my sprue plate but I don’t wanna hurt it;)
I wore out an old Ash Shovel handle...splintered everywhere near the end of it's life. Switched to a rawhide mallet. I've never looked back.
redhawk
A 10” handle section of a broken ash baseball bat.
An 8 pound piece of broken jackhammer steel sits on the bench just to let the molds, pots and electronics know that a great deal of force can be brought to bare if they don't perform properly.
A 6oz rawhide mallet is used on sprue plates and handles ..... most of the time.
Couple of thoughts::
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...-Mould-Tappers
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...ppers-for-Sale
BTW, back on the focus of this thread, I get the molds to the high end of heat, and easily open the sprue plate with my gloved hand. I put the corner of the mold down on a linen or cotton towel. I use my mold tapper to lightly tap on the pivot screw, only to facilitate the mold cavities to release the castings. That way, they drop lightly without damage. And, the mold tapper never gets damaged. I don't beat on anything with the tapper.
When I did the extensive research for the tappers, I quickly discarded the PVC covered dowels. The pvc kept breaking too easily. The solid wood versions were more durable, and the custom bullet shaped handles were a hit. Let me check raw materials.
Attachment 242574
a very beat up piece of 1x2 pine.
I use a chair leg cut down. I saw a busted up chair in the ditch out in the neighborhood when I lived in GA, and I drug the chair home. I cut a few pieces and parts off it and then threw it in my ditch. That was about 6 years ago. Works great.
I also turned a couple for friends out of Dogwood. They turn wonderfully and are rock hard.
For years l used a piece of osage orange l split, but now use heavy duty kevlar gloves. Light flexible and handles heat well.
Mike
I use a 1.5" diameter rod of solid teflon for the past 40 years.
+1 on a length of 1-1/4" soft pine curtain rod. The pine takes all the abuse, not your mold, and it will last for many many thousands of whacks.
It was 1967 and my Dad had a wood replacement hammer handle for a claw hammer lying on his work bench....
Looked like it would be just the right shape and size to open a mould, so I borrowed it.
I swear I always meant to return it... I'm still using it to this day .
When I told my Dad I had "borrowed" it , his reply was " Keep it , I bought two when I was at the hardware store . " My Dad always had a habit of buying a spare ... I find myself doing the same thing now...like father, like son !
Wow...Fathers Day is coming up... I sure do miss that old Guy .
If you still have your Dad , spend some time with him while you can .
Gary
Been using a rawhide mallet since I started casting.
Never used a club on a mould in my life. Never will. Wear leather welders' gloves, grab the sprue-plate handle and give it a twist. What's so hard about that?