I've wondered about dryer lint, too, might be worth a go. I wish there was something I could buy already screened and cleaned. The wood flour would be perfect if it works, it's certainly cheap enough.
Gear
Printable View
I've wondered about dryer lint, too, might be worth a go. I wish there was something I could buy already screened and cleaned. The wood flour would be perfect if it works, it's certainly cheap enough.
Gear
no go for me on the dryer lint.
i do use it as a case filler though.
if you could get a clean [no dog or cat hair etc] sample it would do somewhat better.
i could make a good grease cookie though.
and it will soak up some serious liquid.
Ut oh Gear...that mission impossible theme song in the background is losing volume...must mean you are on to something.:bigsmyl2:
Finely "shredded" / "pulverized" dacron or pulverized paper pulp should act like re-bar does in concrete. It holds the less cohesive things rigid until acted on by a stronger force. I.E A bomb in a building or centrifical force on a boolit. The material is contained by the barrel until it has a place to go then whoosh it is slung into the air. Sounds like a paper jacket minus all the bearing/protective "jacket" surface to me. This is where I was hoping/thinking this would go clear back on post #105.[smilie=s: THANK YOU...and I am still listening:popcorn:
I have seen greased rope gaskets take alot of pressure and hold....you are getting close....I can feel it.... don't stop now....PLEASE :lol:
Now if only I could figure out a better way to shred paper. Food processor maybe?
Gear
Slightly whetted kids construction paper should turn to fibers quite readily in a food processor. I know SWMBO's Ninja would do it in fine fashion...but I ain't going there. No way no how...unt uh...not gonna happen.
MOTP, thanks for the tip, but I'll pass on that stuff because it's heavily treated wtih boric acid (I think) to make it fire-resistant. Good thinking, though, it's real close to what I'm looking for fiber-wise. edit, ya beat me to it, Mike!
Mike, the construction paper might do it. I know that stuff is heavy on the groundwood pulp and light on everything else like fillers and sizers, might work. Remember Gear's Rule (#2 I think) about staying out of SWMBO's kitchen with boolit stuff!
Gear
i thought rule #2 was the double-tap
especially on the way outta the kitchen after touching the blender.
that wood flour could replace some of the waxes as the final oil control.
Problem solved: Toilet paper in a blender, just like someone mentioned way back on this thread. instant white fluff!
Gear
Gear you know what my last name is so how ironic would it be to put TP in a homebrw lube.:roll: That's some funny stuff right there. Please let us know how it shoots and what the final recipe is. Please do not hold me to that 10 lbs thing...I am broke.
I was tying to think of a name for the TP lube and using any color behind TP will not get it done. tpbrown...nope
tpgreen...nope
tpyellow...nope
tpred...ouch
tpblack..better see doc. :twisted:
That IS funny, Mike. Is Rich road for a po'boy more Michigan irony? :kidding:
I think "Pink Hairball" lube is appropriate.
Gear
Do you have to pulverize a paper in water? Couldn't it be pulverized wi a bit of mineral oil or something like that?
I would think a small coffee grinder would work on small batches.
pao/tp
locked up with a stearate.
Brad, I tried it dry, but thought about trying to wet it with ATF to make a paste. No need though, I shredded the TP into pieces and dropped it in the blender dry, hit the "go" button and it turned into a mini-blizzard inside on a low setting. I like the way the vortex keeps cycling the fluff through the cutters, it's absolutely a puff of fibers in seconds, PERFECT. The fibers try to clump a little bit when added to the melted wax, but a fork takes care of that. It would be really nice to be able to run it through the blender melted on the lowest speed setting to sort of "mill" the stuff, but once it cools the clumps really don't seem to matter that much, the stuff is very consistent and acts only slightly firmer than the lube did before adding the fibers. The stuff I made before stiffened a little more after a few days, but not much. I'm using a very high concentration of fiber, enough to soak up all the wax so it just clumps into a ball in the saucepan. When I scoop it out with a fork only the wet melted lube film remains on the pan.
Run, I think it really needs at least 50% wax in the mix, I tried it with grease and it's not wanting to stay in the grooves. Maybe shoulda used a thicker grease though. Grease/wax like our extra-stearate lubes should be fine as they are with the fibers added, maybe use less thickener though, more like a NLGI #4 grease half-and-half with wax and then mixed with enough fluff to soak it all up.
Mike, at least your taxes must be low. The tax appraiser thinks our house and shop is only worth $27K, but that's because he hasn't come inside! If he did, we'd be in deep poo trying to pay the taxes. I told my wife we need to get a few more junk cars to put out front and maybe some chickens and pigs, that would drive the price down even more!
Gear
The trick is to keep the grass tall enough to scare the neighbors and the appraiser but short enough to find the lawnmower when you need it. :guntootsmiley: Old dead lawnmowers are alot easier to move around than autos...plus you can build racing lawnmowers cheaper than stock cars. :redneck:
I may try some MMl with TP fluff added to it. Might let it work better in the summer heat.
OK, for someone who hasn't read all 500+ posts, what is the intended function of the paper fiber... to hold back gas in the land/groove corners that the gas check has no chance of sealing?
MJ