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I've seen brushes, like the one in the image below called chamber brushes.Quote:
Originally Posted by alamogunr
http://cdn1.cheaperthandirt.com/ctd_...od/CLN-407.jpg
Typically they're used in bottleneck rifle chambers.
As bhn22 previously mentioned - All of the chamber brushes that I've encountered seem to be made with stainless steel bristles.
I would have no qualms about using a chamber brush to clean a revolvers cylinder.Quote:
Originally Posted by bhn22
- Bullwolf
I have and use the reamer Char-Gar talks about above and have used it for 30 + years. Old tool, you only use finger tip pressure, no fuss, no trouble. Clymer calls it a de-leading reamer. Use the reamer after soaking in Hoppies #9 overnight. Follow up after lightly turning the reamer in your finger tips with a patch soaked in more Hoppies #9, no sign of any buildup with very little effort and just normal cleaning. No metal removed, just the lead ring buildup. Think it's a cheap tool as well. You will discard all of the rest after using this one. Fast and easy.
Chris
Good solvents, wire brushes, char-boy, steel wool, and lead removing cloth. Lead cloth is available commercially or you can make your own. It does an amazing job.
When i have to get carbon out, I use a General Motors products called Top engine Cylinder Cleaner. I think that is the name. I have not had to use it in a while. But it will cut and clean ANY carbon off anything. Or you can use some Seafoam too. It works really well too.
Over the years I have used probably every possible remedy for the "38 crud in a 357 chamber" challenge, also for the overloaded crud ring in a chamber that had been rarely if ever cleaned. Oversize (caliber) brushes, Lewis Lead Remover, every witchcraft combination of solvents-oils- fluids for cleaning. When all was said and done I always came back to Brownell's chamber brushes. Simply stated these are the fastest and most effective method for crud removal I have ever used. These must be mounted on a cleaning rod with a fixed handle - one that does not rotate freely. Start the brush into the chamber and advance it while rotating the rod by turning the handle. I usually rotate the brush 8-10 complete circles in the forcing cone area and all crud is gone. They are tight but it is the working end of the brush doing it's thing. Have used them on blue and SS chambers, never found any damage to the chamber. The reason for the caution against using them in a barrel is the difference in size between chambers and bores. If the brush is tight in a chamber, it will be really tight in a bore. Try this at your own risk. It is a one-way trip. It is not humanly possible to pull a chamber brush back out of a bore once it is inside it. One will have to drive (and please don't ask how I know this) the brush completely through the bore, remove the handle, then remove the brush from the frame. I still use them, provide them (with instructions and cautions) to others and promote them to anyone who has this same challenge of a dirty chamber. Brownell's has these in most of the popular handgun caliber brackets.
I use a cylinder cleaning tool called a Allison Speed Brush for my 38/357 & 44 and 45 cal handguns!
it has a extended handle with a head containing 6 replaceable brushes to clean all the chambers at once , a few pass every 4 or 5 reloads removes the build up. the action revolver shooters use them to keep chambers clean for slick reloads.
I have for many years used a chamber brush with a ratchet on it designed for M-14s. They Are available at most surplus dealers for $2 or so and last for years.
Loren
HERESY! PURE UNADULTERATED HERESY I SAY!! Hoppes #9 is the essence of the shooting world.:smile:Quote:
Originally Posted by Went2kck
Cordless drill and a tight brush knocks it out in no time. I have been doing this for years.
A piece of brass tubing with a slot cut in one side and teeth filed into the end will scrape away the hardest foiling in no time.
I use this method to clean the chamber neck of old military rifles that have had fouling in the chamber neck caked so thick it caused excess pressure due to preventing the case neck from expanding to release the bullet smoothly.
It should work for revolver chambers.
I'd suggest expanding the mouth of a decapped .357 case, filing the teeth in the case mouth, then run a narrow screw through the flash hole and lock it with a nut. The exposed length of the screw could be chucked in a hand cranked drill or threaded into a short rod and turned by hand.
Every so often expand the case mouth again till its a tight fit.
Don't use an electric drill. You need to feel your way along.
The stuff that comes out of a chamber neck looks at first like thin streamers of black plastic like material, then like pencil lead shavings. When you reach bare steel the brass teeth can't cut or dig into steel so they just slide over the steel surface.
Fouling from use of lead bullets can be very hard, much like old dried lead based paint chips.
If it were not for me shooting my Ruger in IDPA I would go with Al's suggestion and just shoot .357mag cases in my Ruger and 686. I have a zillion 38spl cases and two lifetimes of .357 mag cases in my gun room and still run the 38spl cases in matches. No real big deal, a little time spent with the chor boy while watching my inept but never the less, entertaining Oilers toil away in the NHL is a relaxing diversion on a cold Feb evening.
Take Care
Bob
ps Really should get a used Model 10 5" and just play with it.
I like that suggestion. Sounds practicalQuote:
Originally Posted by Multigunner
This stuff works real good. Just be careful with it.
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/arch.../t-140916.html
choreboy wrapped on old brush chucked in drill
Gunslick foaming bore cleaner followed by a copper choreboy wrapped brush to get tight fit. I give it a few twists by hand, if it's really bad a cordless drill
How about a dedicated 38 spec cylinder. I know some models are available in 357 and 38 only.
On powder/carbon build-up, Seafoam works well, Marvel Mystery Oil works too but a bit slower. Since I've usually got one or the other in the truck, they get used at the range. At home, Ed's Red or Kroil get used.
I just buy 38 handguns. Since I like a 2-3" barrel, not much of a differance in performance, beside ball of fire, between the two IMHO. Plus I load the 357's for a rifle, so don't want those getting into anything but a SP101.
A .38/.357 stainless steel CHAMBER brush will clean them with one pass. I only use mine when it's so gunked up that I can't load magnums.. very rarely is it needed or used but nothing works better.
http://www.proshotproducts.com/38357...ush_p_511.html
I just googled myself here...
I'm soaking a 585-1 ,not my gun but I may buy those grips... anyway, I thought it has tight throats when I checked with my bullets earlier today... just noticed horrible crud rings from who knows how far back. Gun looks clean but this is pretty serious crud here.
Still reading this thread.