If you keep it away from stock finish and any plastic parts(and your eyes!)- Berryman B12 spray carburetor cleaner does a great job on actions.
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If you keep it away from stock finish and any plastic parts(and your eyes!)- Berryman B12 spray carburetor cleaner does a great job on actions.
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Without any question or doubt: G96! Attachment 317065
There are probably more than one correct answer but I still go with old reliable Hoppe’s #9.
PB Blast or Ed's Red . Have used Diesel fuel , Gas , Kerosene , all work.
Ed's Red Bore / Gun Cleaner gets my vote ... I roll with Acetone even though the "Man" said without acetone ... I like to live dangerously .
The ATF you want to use - General Motors Compatable ... Non- Synthetic , I had a synthetic ATF refuse to mix with the other 3 ingredients ! Regular , standard ATF mixes and stays mixed ... avoid the synthetic stuff like the plague !
Gary
#9. The smell always takes me back to hunting camp in the North East New England swamps. Schools back then had a +50% vacancy rate for boys that first week of deer season. No-one cared as teachers would always assign work to do when you were "sick" in advance. First question back on Monday was "you get your deer"? If you did, I did once, the entire class was left to their own devices as you described blow by blow the entire thing.
Ed's without the acetone works just as well and I have a 48oz coffee can full of used ATF to make it with but that #9 smell.
Ballistol, easy on your guns finish and your hands.
LOL, and I have had great luck with the synthetic stuff. The quart I have now says III/IV.
Dexron III(F) was dino based.
"Released in December 1998, GM's Dexron-III (G) specification (GM6417M) was a synthetic blend automatic transmission fluid, especially developed to address the VCCC shuddering issue. "
Deep cleaning is simple green in the sonic bath round here
Second the B-12 Chemtool, but will also add that if you have any cuts that you know about (or don't know about), the Chemtool will get those pain receptors firing wildly!!!
Mineral spirits, scrub it with a new chip brush or your old tooth brush, blow it out with an air compressor, soak it down with your favorite lube and blow it out again to remove the excess oil/lube.
I'm gonna point this out and you do with it what you will. I just looking for you to think about this. Go to the nail polish aisle of Walmart or where ever you get your nail polish. Pick up a odd shaped for the aisle bottle of NAIL POLISH REMOVER. Check the ingredients or pop the cap and sniff that rascal. Yeap, that's acetone for sure. We keep hearing how bad it is and you need to wear gloves. Now how are you going to remove nail polish with gloves covering your nails? Momma don't head for a hazmat suit to remove or add nail polish. Try telling her it's unhealthy to get them nails done. I ain't saying to make a hog wallow through to roll in it.
Gunsmith I know uses the metal flake version of nail polish as his sealing marker to ID his work like the trigger adjustment screws on a customer's rifle. Stands up to gun oils, cleaning rags, and the occasional repurposed teethbrush (I got family from WV but not all of them). It's his liability assurance that it's his work.
Hope I didn't mess up anybody's weekend.
Used Hoppes for years ... does the job on barrel and actions ... not too aggressive ... the solvents that remove copper fouling also often remove steel ... I want some copper fouling in my barrels ... they shoot better that way ... and I just plain like the smell of the stuff ... I sometimes use non-chlorinated brake parts cleaner to rinse the crud out of my BLR actions without having to strip them down because those BLR gear driven actions can be a headache to reassemble ... my BLRs are takedowns and easy to clean ... just remove the barrel and stock and rinse into a pail until the cleaner runs clear
I use automotive oils on a rag. My preference is (hopefully already sitting nearby?) synthetic engine or transmission oil. Scrub scrub wipe. Spray with rem oil. Wipe again. Done.