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Getting closer.
I received the black bb's a couple days ago. Also checked the accuracy of the temperature dial to 2 different thermometers. I bought a Taylor, and found a Farberware my wife had forgotten she had. First off, the Taylor and Farberware thermometers were different by about 12°. So which ones right ???? Another SWAG. So, shooting for the 400° mark, the two thermometers read; Taylor 395°, and the Farberware read about 407°. Here's the kicker though. I had to turn the dial on the toaster oven to "max", all the way to 450°. Yesterday I preheated the oven and put in 20 Lee 452-225 tc boolits to see if they were going to melt. They survived the heat. Smokes is sending the powder tomorrow. Hopefully get it by the end of the week. Impatiently waiting.
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12 degrees wouldn't make any difference. I can relate to being impatient! I think I will go find the materials to build a stand for a press that hasn't been shipped yet!
HA! hc18flyer
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Lol. Yeah, I understand.
I built my stand back in the early 80's. It is square tubing, and it telescopes. But, I only use it setting down. I built it to originally to accept the RCBS Jr. press and a MEC shotshell press. Then I drilled it to accept my Rockchucker lV press.Then a couple years later, I fabricated a head for it to accept my Dillon SDB press. Works like a champ. A lot better than a bench, and I can position it exactly where I want it.
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Ok, ok. I couldn't wait till the end of the week. Harbor Freight called me. I bought a bottle of white, and a bottle of matt black. Came back and went to work. Used one light teaspoon of each, black and white. Everything went as planned. The powder coverage was thin, so I coated them a second time. Came out a dull dark gray. Actually, looked pretty nice. Sized them to .452. Maybe do some tomorrow for the practice. Looking forward to the good stuff from Smokes. Thank you all again for the expierienced input and advice.
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I built a PID controller that I can use for oven temp control and I also use it for temp control when making shine (I mean lawnmower fuel).
I found the build instructions on "Barley and hops" web site.
Good luck with your powder coating.
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I received the three sample "ziplock" bags from Smokes today. Signal Blue, Carolina Blue, and OD Green. I did warm up the boolits (just able to hold in my hand) before shake'n & bake'n. That made a nice even coat. They turned out beautiful. I pc'd some Carolina Blue, and some mixed with OD Green. Very satisfied with the results. Tomorrow, do some Signal Blue, and finish the batch with OD Green. What fun.
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Wait until you start shooting the bullets...I put 900 rounds of 158-grain cast PC'd bullets through my S&W 357 Mag model 66 and when I realized how many times I shot it since the last cleaning and I thought...damn, I better clean this gun.
One pass with Hoppes #9 and a clean patch showed some "heavy gray" material on the patch. Then next Hoppes soaking showed a "light gray" material on the patch. Subsequent patches showed almost nothing. I looked to make sure that the bore was not plugged! and ran my borescope down the barrel and saw nothing but pristine rifling and no sign of fouling or leading.
Not sure now that I will clean it for a couple of years...it has been a game changer for me.
Good luck,
Paul
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HF white did OK but went on thick ( I was spraying at the time), 40sw. HF red worked for TL, barely. Black only sprayed and was dismal.
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Looking forward to the clean bore, and minimal smoke. When I mixed the HF black and white, it came out a dark gray. Looking closer it has a resemblance to a dark granite. I did have to do a second coat. I did try the white by itself. Coating was minimal, even after a second coat.
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You don't have to spend a lot of money to powder coat. Get a sample pack from smoke, follow his instructions, think simple and you will get perfect results.
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Iowa Fox
That's purdy much what I did. Didn't receive any instructions with the sample pack from Smokes. I followed the advice and
reccomendations from the members. The powder coat came out very nice.
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This is the best write up on shake and bake PC that I've seen.
https://www.mp-molds.com/tipstricks/...ble-dt-method/
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Went to the range yesterday (Thursday) to try out some more of my powder coated boolits. Again, I am very appreciative of all the help getting started from the members. The last month or so, I've been playing with a 45acp 234 grain ball boolit. I have changed the ogive from round nose to flat point to shorten up the col of the loaded round. The powder charge I use is 5.4 grains of HP-38. This load gives a velocity average of 850 fps. The powder coating does a great job, leaving zero leading in the bore.
This Tuesday last, I cast and powder coated some Ideal 412174 boolits for my 41 magnum. This boolit was originally designed for the Ballard 40-70 or 40-75 black powder rifle cartridges. These boolits weigh in at 255.5 +/- average. I double coated these ones. I stoked them with a heavy charge of Win. 296. I also powder coated my Lee 45-255 rnfp. I shot these in my Winchester 94AE Trapper. The condition of the bores after shooting, was outstanding. The Win. 94AE could be compared with a mirror. This bore shoots clean with the boolits being greased, but the powder coated looks as though nothing went down the bore. The .41 magnum rounds were fired in my RSB Hunter w/ 7.5 barrell. Again, the powder coating did its job, another bright shiny bore. Looks like i'm hooked. Great day at the range.
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I used a standard dial thermometer. It told me I have to set the dial at 350 in order to get the oven at 400 degrees.
The biggest thing that has helped my PC'ing, and something I don't see mentioned here, is to set-up baffles in my oven, and to insulate the boolits from the bottom of the pan. This keeps the heating elements from radiating directly onto the boolits.
-I placed two 1/4" rods on the oven pan then put a metal tray on top of the rods. Foil, then boolits go on top of the metal tray. This keeps the bottom heating element from radiating directly onto the piece of metal the boolits are seating on.
-The top shelf in the oven is covered with thin metal/heavy foil. This keeps the top heating element from radiating directly onto the boolits.
This allows the boolits to get heated with ambient heat instead of radiant.
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Thanks for the tips. My heat setting works fine to where it is adjusted. I don't see any reason to change my procedure, as my boolits come out really nice.