Having been a grain inspector for 25 years, a pair of tweeters is part of my right hand. I bet I can stand up a tray of shake and bake boolets faster than most can do it with their fingers.
Any retired or present grain inspectors out there?
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Having been a grain inspector for 25 years, a pair of tweeters is part of my right hand. I bet I can stand up a tray of shake and bake boolets faster than most can do it with their fingers.
Any retired or present grain inspectors out there?
Athough I don't cast or powder coat, I can tell from all this discussion about standing bullets on end and moving a tray into a toaster oven would be something I would that I would NOT be good at.
Has anyone ever considered using pinch clamp to hold the bullets by it's ends?
Attachment 314255
Also known as miter clamps.
They could be attached to the tray and the bullets would be held tight and could not fall over. :popcorn:
Or a spring key ring could be cut to make 2 clamps with openings narrower the length of a bullet.
Then they could be spread open enough to pinch on a bullet.
I did a spring like that on a Lee bullet feeder:
Attachment 314257
Bulk key rings are way cheaper than those miter clamps:
https://www.amazon.com/s?k=split+key...f=nb_sb_noss_2
Pins/screws to hold bullets by the ends could be added to spring clamp jaws too.
Lots of bulk spring clamps on Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/Online-Best-S...jaz10cnVl&th=1
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I use a thin layer of clay on a foiled cookie sheet and just press boolits down 1/32" so they stick on it. After batch is sprayed and cooled the next batch has perfect holders for it, with no worries about fall downs. If you are finicky, and want pretty, show off, boolits you can press noses of sprayed cured bullets into another sheet of clay to coat and seal the entire bullet.
I am liking enamel spray paint more and more for coating bullets it is baked on just like powder coat and once dried can be handlined to put on baking sheet.
My first tests where Kylon paint I am using mostly Rustoleom that I get cheaper if I do not care about what color .
The bullets must be rinsed before spraying (I use acetone) . I spray twice from three directions letting them dry between coats . The coating if properly baked will not peel when a bullet is crushed and I have taken 30 caliber bullets and swaged them to .452" and the coating is good though the process .Attachment 314352
P.S. the reason I tried spray paint was for a bit thinner coating on long nosed rifle bullets for the 30-30 as powder coating would not fit into the rifling. Most bullets now go onto rifling lead fine in my Marlin. The soft cast bullet weights 184 grains and is averaging 2040 f/s and groups under 2 inches at 100 yards. I am getting 2168 f/s from a 45-70 22" Marlin with 354 soft cast bullets and also groups of about 1 1/2" at 100 yards . I am also using spray paint in .357 & .44 magnum full power loads with great luck .
like many I started off coating with the SB method
coverage was better than nothing but a spray gun would be better
after all there purpose to coat
No comparison I threw away all my SB containers and would not use that method again
you want get good coverage use a gun and you don't need to worry about what powder to use