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You are getting great advice from others. I think country gents dowel cutter is on the right track. But since your not cutting through the stock, snapping the dowel out will be a challenge.
I would use a Variable Speed Oscillating Multi-Tool, with narrow width blades. This would allow you to cut a wedge shape piece out from behind the butt plate. The grain will be in the same direction making it a great match to the missing area. As TNsailorman Save the saw dust you make.
Cut the damaged stock area smooth using a fine blade saw or table saw. Now you have 2 smooth edges to work with.
Given the wedge shape you have to work with, cut a larger piece out and drill a hole through from the thick end and into the stock itself. This allows you to peg the piece onto the stock. Pegging is a tried and true method of wood repair and building. It holds solid and will not release. Its the only way I build. Very rarely use any nails.
I use Devcon 2 part liquid steel as a bonding agent. And very little and in a smooth pattern. Clamping will be fairly easy to hold the two pieces in place until glues are set.
Then shape the wedge using “very” sharp wood chisels to mold a shape the profile. Sand using fine grade paper to desired smoothness.
Mix some saw dust with Old English Furniture Oil. The oil will absorb the wood color from the the saw dust and with multiple rubbings you’ll be able to match the stock as close as possible.
Time and patience are the key to this type of work.
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Those stocks also look pretty darn good with a nice burgandy or dark leather buttstock cover laced on.
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I'm thinking that wood will be birch. Remove butt plate, file the break flat, apply new piece, I like Titebond II. Flatten butt overhang, put butt plate back on, file and sand to contour. Stain and apply finish. The last two steps will determine how well it disappears. Even if not totally invisible, it is doubtful anyone will ever notice if you don't point it out.
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I use a set of gouges that I made specifically to repair stocks. I cut a chip out with a gouge then cut an exact matching wood type and grain piece gouged from the matching scrap. The scrap is then put onto the sock using thinned Acraglass Gel, covered by plastic wrap and wrapped with stretched surgical tubing. When cured, I sand to match then refinish the entire stock.
I you leave a hair line, you can fill it with paste made fron the wood sanding dust and a 50-50 mix of pro custom oil and mineral spirits.
Remove the butt plate to attach the repair, then replace the butt plate before you sand.
A stock repair is a bit more complicated to do correctly and to do in such a way as to have the repair actually disappear.
I did a Citori stock repair on a cut off, the fellow had the cut off piece, he did not care, he wanted his wife's stock redone, using her wood altered to fit him, using the cut off. That is a strange request, no new wood. So I did as requested, he is happy as a pig in the sunshine.
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Look up Mark Novak on YouTube. He has a video explaining how he repaired a stock with damage just like yours.
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How well the repair hides depends entirely on the skill of the person doing the repair work.
Skill and techniques differ,,so will the results.
If the person doubts the repair can be made to disappear,,it won't.
Here's a Winchester 21 stock with a poorly matched wood patch epoxy glued into place.
But with the right techniques and skill, it can be made to blend in with the surrounding original wood.
It only needs a bit more touch up and then the final overcoat clear finish to complete the work.
https://i.ibb.co/wrh2xmm/MVC-053F.jpg
https://i.ibb.co/gM01whM/MVC-058F.jpg
https://i.ibb.co/nDXySc9/MVC-057F.jpg
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2152hq , that repair is amazing!!!:awesome:
