A nice medium weight barrel in .38/55 would be just right if it were mine.:mrgreen:
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A nice medium weight barrel in .38/55 would be just right if it were mine.:mrgreen:
I like the 40-70SS, 38-55 and the 30-40. You can't go wrong with either one. Tapered octagon is my vote.
SS
The 40-82.....ain't cheap
http://www.ammo-one.com/40-82WIN.html
http://www.ammo-one.com/40-82WCFumcSolid.jpg
SS
I don't think we established which Martini you have. Which Martini do you have?
Pacific Tool has had some of the Reamers we have mentioned on sale. I bought a .375 2 1/5 NE reamer recently. $66.
Brass from Buffalo.
I'm not sure it will turn the corner, but the 40 Maynard sound interesting. Uses 30/40 Krag or .303 Brass blown out.
I just did a large frame in 30/40. I used a Springfield two grove barrel and it shoots grate. My action had been converted to a .22 club gun in the U. K. back in the day so it required replacement of the lever.
I would recommend this caliber as brass and molds are readily available. As stated before the actions were forged unless it is a Greener shot gun so the strength of the action will not cause problems.
Exblaster
50 alaskan
LLoyd, you just like big boolits! If I was going to go .50 I'd probably go 50-70 just for the hell of it. May do that when I work on my RB action. I think this one will be a .40 something, and 40-65 looks good, in a half round configured barrel. Tapered enough to be light enough to carry.
40-65 is a .406" isn't it?
New barrels are .408.
Bob
What ever you cartridge you decide on what ever you do, make a barrel stub first chambered for your selected cartridge and see if it will feed.
If you need to grind the the feed ramp to get it to fit then don't because that breech block is also your locking lugs.
[I've thought of 7x57, one of my favorite cartridges, but 7x57R cases are likely the problem. Granted, I haven't yet looked for them. I've got two 30-30's or I'd go that way.]
The 7-30 Waters.
Why not split the difference and go with a .35 based on whatever existing case that works? There is .35 rem., 35 .30-30, 35 .303, 35.3040K. Or you could pick a usable case and go with a .37 caliber. There is .38-55 and .375 Winchester. Or, you could neck up any of the other cases mentioned. I've never done this but, if money and interest allowed, I'd go with a .35.
Enjoy
Tom
I don't think that's a rimmed cartridge, is it?
Tom, I know what you are saying with the .35. Necking the 30-30 up or the 30-40 up to .35 is an option, and .35 is the most efficient. Logic may lean toward the .35, emotion leans toward the .40. Available molds probably lean toward the .35, as well, although I haven't checked. I have an RCBS 40-400CSA mold already, don't have a .35 other than pistol molds.
7MM Waters is a necked down 30-30. I have one in a small Martini action. Dynamite little rifle, fast, light, and low recoil.
Bob
You could chamber it for 38-72Win and form them from 405Win brass. You could first try the 38-55 and if you want more horsepower, then rechamber to 38-72Win.
Very old post I know, but is it established that the 40-82 will not make the turn into the chamber?
If you don't want the recoil of 45/70 how bout 45 long colt? It can be loaded pretty stout in this type of gun with out the recoil.
Rimmed 35 Rem. Standard 35 Rem chamber with a rim for 303 British. 303 British brass sized and shortened gives you a rimmed 35 Rem. OR a 303 British.