Originally Posted by
rfd
unlike cap guns, the heart of flintlock long guns is the lock itself. with flint locks (that is, the lock and not the entire gun), you will almost always get what ya pay for, and even so there will usually be some work to be done on the lock to improve its function. i always take them apart and true the plate at the very least. but it's not always the lock that's the only concern. do consider the overall geometry of the lock and its relationship to the touch hole (and/or liner), the touch hole (or liner) itself, the relationship 'tween the cock jaws and the hammer steel, and all the things apropos to sticking on and positioning a flint ... not to mention the pan shape and position to the vent hole, the pan powder and its distribution, and what the gun likes with regards to fouling. then there's the matter of the flint quality, knowing how to keep a flint Sharp during its use, and the inherent hammer steel hardness. this all sounds like a lotta stuff, and it is. but once they're all reasonably sorted out with regards to a specific gun, ignition will be quite good with every hammer drop. so yes, these "simple" guns might not be so simple if their build and/or components aren't up to snuff. you will almost always get what ya paid for, in usage results.
with regards to the offshore flint locks, they're at best "okay". some may take a bunch of tweaking to work reasonably well, some never will. an L&R RPL lock replacement may do wonders in this matter. it will usually be the best $150 spent to make a so-so gun into shooter ... that is, as long as the other other things mentioned are cared for and resolved. and these other things includes learning how best to deal with the offshore guns' patent breech.