The question is how about hog? They are kinda tough but not sure what kinda energy is enough. Probably the same as deer.
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The question is how about hog? They are kinda tough but not sure what kinda energy is enough. Probably the same as deer.
Doesn't that statement really only apply to your gun and loads?Quote:
the GC'd lubed bullet cast soft will give the best accuracy you'll get out of your rifle with a cast bullet........ and will give superior terminal results.
Attachment 201027
The above targets were shot at 50 yards. The top target is powder coated and the bottom target is with normal lube. a 270 grain plain base bullet with same cases, same powder, same time shot. That's 5 shots in each target. For this test the powder coated bullet came out the winner for accuracy and velocity.
Thumbs, friend uses 115 jacketed from his shield, but has decided to go back to 40sw as it takes a couple from the 9. Said he has hit a couple big ones but can't put them down. Anything that will work for deer will work on hog.
Thanks. Yeah never hunted hogs before but trying to get a handle on it. On my bucket list runnin out of time. LOL Some say they are pretty tough and you need a bit of horse power to get through the heavy bone. Iodono I figure a good load in a .44mag rifle hitting in the right place should do the job. I hope. To old to run em down.
I used PCed bullets in my Mosin 7.62x54r and loaded them to lower jacketed levels. Shot fine. Barrel slugged .313". Sized bullets, post PC, to .314". Guestimate of 2200-2300 fps...
for hogs and a pistol especially just remember no shoulder shots. hit em head , neck or just in front of the shoulder
on boars the shoulder is well protected and usually takes multiple shots in that area
Gohon
Certainly fine accuracy at 50 yards with a PB'd PC'd cast bullet at a velocity of 1450 fps. If the same load with the same sight setting was used for both groups it appears the 10 shot group is 1.5"+ at 50 yards. Still ok for 50 yards.
However, if you go back and read the OP's question he asked "how fast" (not where the best accuracy was) a PC'd GC'd cast bullet sans the GC can be shot. I don't think you'd argue that your PC'd cast bullet can be shot much faster out of your H&R rifle. Perhaps you could show us some groups shot at the max safe velocity?
I answered the OP's question as it "really related" to his firearm and bullet and the OPs quest for "how fast".
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As you can see, that bone plate at the shoulder is covered with a wide muscle bundle. However, where the leg appears to attach is a good shot, heart & lung plus possibly breaking the leg to slow them down. Spine in front of the real shoulder blade is good but a small area, called the 'behind the ear' shot. Just behind the front leg takes out the lungs and you get to chase/find them. Same with 'texas heart shot'. Anything farther back and it's a waste of ammo.
Keep er under 3000fps. At that speed you may experience problems.
Well...it's not a ten shot group but two five shot groups. Though the same powder charge was used and same cases with the same rifle with same sights...the bullets themselves were not the same. One was lubed and the other was powder coated. Even if you were to overlay those targets the 8 shot group would still be less than one inch. That particular gun heats up fast with these loads and will throw the fifth shot slightly right out of the group every time. Just the nature of the gun. As for speed, 1467 fps gives the OP some numbers to consider. I've run this same coated bullet up to just shy of 1700 fps with good accuracy and no barrel leading but it is a punishing load to shoot at the bench so I backed it down.Quote:
If the same load with the same sight setting was used for both groups it appears the 10 shot group is 1.5"+ at 50 yards.
I'm not the one that brought up accuracy...you did. However the OP is going to have to contend with accuracy in the end regardless of speed generated.
Nevertheless as I said, your comments really just apply to your gun just as mine only apply to my gun though I should say guns as I get the same results from my 1894 45 Colt. Bottom line is the OP will just have to test and see what he and his guns prefer and then make a choice.
As you wish......I was referring to the entire 5 shot groups.
However, again, your results are with a PB'd bullet and the OP is using a GC'd bullet w/o the GC. Also, was not my rifle I referred to in the previous post. I have on the other hand had enough similar results with GC'd bullets used w/o the GCs in a multitude of guns over the years that HV for the cartridge and bullet is better served with the use of a GC.
"However the OP is going to have to contend with accuracy in the end regardless of speed generated."
With that we definitely agree as it was my point and the point of other posters. If the OP wants to push to the "how fast" then he will be best served using the GC whether he lubes or PCs the bullets or both.
I have a question has anyone thought of using a Gas Check on a Powder Coated Boolit? DUH. It never occurred to me to not install a gas check on a PC'd Boolit.
I think a lot of people miss the real advantages of using a PC'd Boolit.
1. They eliminate leading for people who have that problem.
2. They eliminate lube, and especially the effects of your ammo getting hot and the lube melting into the powder. (I had this happen a few weeks ago and stuck a boolit in the barrel. Luckily I figured it out! and no I didn't leave the box in the sun, it was just 100+ here that day.)
3.Cleaning has been nothing more than one clean patch thru the bore to clean out the powder fouling from the last shot.
4. Bumping the OD of an undersized boolit up. Everyone has a mould that drops small and this is one of the best fixes for that I've found.
Accuracy and Velocities have been similar in all my loads. (.44 Spec and Mag Revolver and Rifle. .45 ACP and .45-70.) But the cleanliness factor is main advantage for me.
I plan on PCing all my other Pistol Boolits too (.40 S&W, Makarov, as well as .30 and .31 cal. rifle boolits.)
It cost me about $100 to get setup to do this using an Eastwood's gun, and a defunct Toaster Oven my Wife abandoned.
For me, making good looking ammo that shoots to an acceptable level is where I'm at with my High Volume ammo like .40 S&W and .45 ACP. If these rounds will stay in a 1" square at 5 yards they are good to go for the type of shooting I do with those rounds. These rounds cost me .06-.07 ea. to produce, not counting my time to make the boolits. They also may sit in the box for years until I get around to shooting them and Lube does melt. I make them in runs of 1000 or more, not 50 or so at a time. They are all fired in Glocks so pinpoint accuracy is not happening.
Point here is that,,, where as PC'ing makes nice looking loads that work fine for me, my considerations might not mean anything to you. The actual shooting results should be similar with the edge going either way.
That kind of means you should do your own testing and decide,,, based on your results what you want to proceed with.
I would however recommend that you actually put gas checks on any boolits that are designed for them whether they are PC'd or Lubed.
Here's the deal: When the round is fired, the gas pressure on a PB boolit is seen by the entire base of the boolit. This usually results in a decent seal. However with a small step on the base it just invites the gas going up the sides of the boolits and results in an inferior gas seal which causes problems. This isn't good.
YMMV?
Randy
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GC designs need a check in my experience. Tried some lee 440gr powdercoated boolits checked and unchecked. If doing slow loads(under 900fps) the check doesnt matter, still very accurate, but when you get any velocity, you better have a copper cup if you want any accuracy.