I'm still back and forth between my 1911s in 45 acp and my S&W 629 x 6" 44 mag. I only take the 22 pistol when my grandkids want to shoot. Both our daughters even carry 45s.
But to each his or her own.
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I'm still back and forth between my 1911s in 45 acp and my S&W 629 x 6" 44 mag. I only take the 22 pistol when my grandkids want to shoot. Both our daughters even carry 45s.
But to each his or her own.
I'd look at the throat in the gun itself.
2 minutes and a couple of twists with a throating reamer would probably fix this.
I had leading and keyholing in my g26 until i started sizing to .358 and throwing some lino or mono in with the coww to harden it up. Now its non-existant. I also like a little slower burning powder like Win WSF or Power Pistol or SR4756. Couldnt get good group out of mine with bullseye or reddot.
kryogen,
It would be interesting to see if a GC boolit would solve your problems ...and it'd be interesting to know if a GC didn't solve the problem ? I have the RD TLC356-135 RF (6cav Lee, GC style mold)(not for sale). I could cast some for you, to try a test, if you want?
But I should add, I've only cast with this mold once, many years ago (right after I got it), That was before I honed my casting skills. According to my notes, the mold produced out of round boolits that day, measuring .355-.357 maybe they'll drop a better size, now that I'm not as much of a newbie caster, as I was back then :oops:
Jon
This is your OP for this thread.
I tried again today, after hitek, pc (all failed), with 454510, and guess what, I got the worst leading in history.
OEM glock 17.
Just exactly what is the bullet that you are not having any success with?
lee 358-105 SWC
I tried PB gas checks, didnt fix it.
Try a 124-147gr bullet.
I could try to add alum tape to my 356-124RN mold to make it drop 360 or so, and then size 358.
The 105 of course is quite light and goes fast... but it punches nice round holes in paper and I like that.
My 357 bullets drop freely in the fired cases. I have been told that this would mean that I should size 358.
I'll try a few sized 358 and see.
Or I could consider buying a rifled barrel that might have a tighter chamber and throat.
Seating must have been hard as 45 bullets don't feed well in a Glock 17Quote:
Originally Posted by kryogen
I'd try water dropping them for a higher BHN and then both .357 and .358. Next would be heat treating for harder yet. Did I miss what you are using for lube and powder?
I'm not familiar with the 454510 in a 9mm. Are you sure of that number? It sounds like a 45 caliber mold. I can say I've never gotten 105gr to work right in my 9mm semi-autos. I'd try a heavier boolit. Some guns just don't like something and thats it. I've got a couple of Kahr CW45's that will not work with a 165gr boolit no matter what and 185gr cast are more trouble than their worth
454510 is recluse tumble lube.
Harder better boolits. 9mm can be difficult.
While it may be true that the polygonal rifling in Glocks needs harder lead, my 9mm's do very well with AIR COOLED WW's. I never need to brush them, just an oily patch before storage. I do shoot .358" in 2, and one, a Walther, gets .359" I would size as large as will freely chamber. From fooling with a coworkers Glock 9mm, that may be quite large indeed..Quote:
Originally Posted by GabbyM
I do agree the .38 Spl is much easier to work with, so I keep a dozen or so of them around. :)
will try heat treated 358 and report.
I can range ac range scrap in my glocks with any of those options with minimal to no leading. You could just have an ugly rough barrel. Certainly try water quenching. Is the bbl newer or does it have a few 1000 rds of jacketed down it?
2000 or so. Its mirror smooth.....
Just got through with a year long 9mm casting **** show for lack of better words. Used 45/45/10, tumble lube lee mold, and 120gn tc. The Barrel slugged at 0.355. I sized the TC bullets to 356 and tumble lubed them...got really bad leading. The TL bullets keyholed and leaded like hell too. Finally switched to the lee 125gn 358 mold, sized to 357 with water quenched wheel weights (all of my bullets were quenched wheel weights). I also started pan lubing. I fill the crimp groove with lube as well giving me 2 grease grooves. No more leading for me and I couldn't be happier. Shot a few sub 2 inch groups at 15 yards as well so they're good to go for me. Also, pan lubing has worked awesome for me and I've had no troubles at all using half paraffin, half Vaseline and a tablespoon of stp. I was hesitant after seeing people complain about pan lubing but it's been pretty damn easy for me... I'm shooting them out of a lone wolf in a glock
Air cooled clip on wheel weights works fine for me.
What lube? LBT soft blue is a good one, as is NRA 50-50. Hardness is typically not a
primary factor. Try larger diameter.
STRONG recommendation for Lee 120 gr Truncated Cone bullet with conventional
lube groove, NRA 50-50 at .358.
My response is simple. WW is a scrap metal item. Ones I've worked with over the last several years have run about BHN #9. Tested with a Saeco unit. Then using the conversion sheet. This is opposed to what some say they get with a BHN #12 from air cooled WW.Quote:
Originally Posted by dubber123
I have melted down around four thousand pounds of scrap WW this century. None of which has been any where near hard enough to make a decent 9mm bullet. WW is not an alloy description it is a type of scrap metal. I do not use straight WW for my 38 Special bullets. Since it's not good enough. Scrap yard pays eight cents a pound for WW and that's all they are worth.
I'm shooting 124gr truncated cone and 124gr round nose from straight clip on wheel weight alloy, water dropped from Lee molds and loaded as cast. I'm shooting them in Glock 19 lubed with 45/45/10 and have no issues with either the stock barrel or the KKM barrel. They test 12-14 hardness.Quote:
Originally Posted by GabbyM
To the OP, I suggest you forget the powder coating and use the 45/45/10 lube and size for .358. Go back and cast a few and water drop them to harden them up a little. Continue with a medium crimp for now. Use a mid powder load and see how that does for you. What powder and charge are you using by the way?