What's the formula for LNHP double saly priming mixture???
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No, there about 3 of us in the US that are shooting BP 22LR reloads in lever actions: 2 Marlins and I use a Henry Golden Boy with a modified block so the longer COL rounds are not scraped when being chambered.Quote:
Would we be safe in assuming these BP loads were fired in single shot mode?
We have made shot strings up to 105 rounds still maintaining accuracy and no foul out. Swiss Null-B is the best powder
As for reloading, we have developed steps that are close to the time to reload a regular smokeless cast bullet round
This should give you a workable result. And is from the patent. Please read it.
http://www.google.com/patents/US4432...%2C819&f=false
Part 1
39% lead nitrate
01% gum arabic
Part 2
40% lead hypophosphite
20% grit
Either:
Method A
1. Mix water with part one
2. Mix part one with part 2
3. Load cases
Method B
1. Mix part one with part two
2. Load cases
3. Add drop of water into case
There are other ways of doing this also. FWIW, because of the closeness of the primer mix to the powder in rf, the mix used can be very different than what is needed in a Boxer primer.
Totally separate from the primer mix. From G. Frost's book "Ammunition Making". Warning this was typed now by me and I'll review it again latter to make sure it is correct.
You might have to make the lead hypophosphite. Buy calcium hypophosphite solution(it was taken off the DEA restricted list in 2011) say a 30%. On a dry basis you need 252 grams of calcium hypophosphite and 491 grams of lead nitrate to make 500 grams from . Dissolve the lead nitrate in about 2 litters of water. Pour the lead nitrate solution into the calcium hypophosphite solution. Lead hypophosphite will settle to the bottom and the calcium nitrate will stay in the water(for the most part). Filter out the lead hypophosphite and wash it well with water to remove any calcium nitrate.
FWIW. I have used sodium hypophosphite instead of calcium hypophosphite, because of the DEA list at the time. I used the part B solution from an electroless nickel plating kit. The amounts to mix to make the lead hypophosphite have to be rebalanced due to the difference in weight of the sodium vs calcium.
PS
I've just clarified part of the use of sodium hypophosphite .
Thanks perotter! An interesting read!!!
[QUOTE=perotter;2077947]This should give you a workable result. And is from the patent. Please read it.
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...w-to-Make-ThemQuote:
Would you care to elaborate for the rest of us???
In addition, the Lyman #5 drop tube fits perfectly into the mouth of the case
As to the question of how accurate a BP reloaded cartridge is - here is a 50 yard target and my stock bore 39a silhouette rifle. Lower right was a fouling test (50 rounds and no fouling of any note - later tests showed up to 150 rounds fired with no appreciable fouling), lower left 10 shots for score offhand.
As you can see, my BP reloads shoot very well...
Attachment 62381
Attachment 62384
I wonder if you couldn't take some of the 22 "blanks" they make for nail guns and empty the powder (dispose of it as it is very fast burning) and use the primed case. Once you have the bullet issue solved it might be a quick way to proceed. I doubt if there has been a run on these.
To put a taper crimp on the cases, use a Lyman H&I die ...Quote:
If I can find the crimp die I am home free!!! Sure appreciate the info.
http://www.lymanproducts.com/lyman/b...izing-dies.php
Fill a spent primer with lead so to not distort the nose of the bullet. Put it on top of the plug. Turn the charged round nose down and pull the handle
BP isn't as bad a fouler as you guys seem to think. I regularly shoot my 45 1911 with BP bullets in Wild Bunch matches and have no problems at all.
Target Purpose: Test of various powders for group accuracy
Here is the test target shot at 25yds using a 10m air rifle target with a Henry Golden Boy, globe and vernier sight. Was done in the evening at an indoor range with poor lighting. A - E targets are 10 shot groups. Rifle patched after 40 rounds. Note the best group (Target C) shots 21-30 (0.81") were reloads with 4.5g Swiss Null-B ... and 5 holes were a (.30") group
Target D was the worst using old DuPont sieved 50 mesh powder.
Targets A - D were shot using the David Mos custom mold of the old UMC match Palma bullet. Target E bullets were the Lyman 225438
http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/d...psde668c44.jpg
Thanks John, I guess that'd be the .244 H&I die right?
[QUOTE=John Boy;2081609]To put a taper crimp on the cases, use a Lyman H&I die ...
gonna have to try it
That CCI video is rilly cool
Celt, how did I know that you were going to ask knowing 22 bullet dimensions are not in your area of expertise?Quote:
Thanks John, I guess that'd be the .244 H&I die right?
It depends:
* First of all, a 22 bullet will swim in a '244' H&I.
* Secondly, a 22 LR bullet is heeled which is 210
* Thirdly, if the bullet is crimped at the 1st GG band above the heel, the proper H&I die is 224 for a tight crimp
Let us all know how your 1st reloads turn out, Okie Dookie?
These are just my experiences on the subject. If you try any of them, please be careful.
The Remington/Hilti powder driven tool loads have the brass crimped too short to easily open it back up for a reload, also they are quite expensive compared to .22lrs (leave out the bullet - charge more - go figure?)
Years ago I built a little brass cannon which was a screw breach setup and used the .22 hilti load and a .22 pellet. I later built one that used JUST a shotgun primer (no powder) and a .17 pellet. Both were fun to have mini target matches with and surprisingly accurate. I gave them both away as people loved them and pestered me for one till I gave them the ones I had.
Anyway I did play with with re-priming spent cases back then (time on my hands alone in the machine shop of a small manufacturing plant), and used a water/alcohol slurry of potassium chlorate, aluminum powder and sulfur and spun it in to tha case. I cleaned the case in a lathe with a dental pick, blew it out with air (never worried about the previous firing pin strike, figured it would probably miss it anyway) then added the primer slurry with a syringe and a plastic dispensing "needle" while spinning in the lathe. After a week or so they would go "bang". I never took it to the next step and loaded any though. (had to actually get some work done).
The recipe or 1 very close is on the skylighter website. Look for fireworks projects and "pop rocks" or "bouncing Rocks" or something like that. Be incredibly careful if you choose to fool with this mixture, it is impact, abrasion and heat sensitive and will quite literally blow your hand (or worse) off. Read the safety pages on the skylighter website.
Hi John,
I "dumb thumbed" my post, I meant a .224 H&I die (which I have ordered). I really appreciate the data you have shared...you literally "closed the loop" for me and answered the major questions I had. Your info and perotter's priming compound input provides us all with the info required to reload 22LR ammo.
I know that reloading rimfire ammo is niether time nor cost effective for most, but the challenge and satisfaction of loading accurate rimfire ammo is appealing to me. I look forward to providing my own results to the group!!! I am trying to find an old Lyman/Ideal 225105 mold and am also looking into a .20 cal bullet mold into which I will have .225 driving bands cut. This will provide the .21 heel while fitting the bore tightly.
Hello, and very interesting posts! When I was a kid I used to reload rimfires using strike-anywhere matches for priming.
But there is a long history of handloading factory primed cases for match rifles.
Gary Quinlan has had several cased .22 long rifle match rifles for sale over the years complete with unopened boxes of factory primed empty .22 L.R. boxes & Pope nose-pour moulds for a 40gr. heeled type bullet. I believe the earliest was a 6 1/2 Ballard rebarreled by Pope circa 1903. The practice was still being done in the 1930's by small bore prone shooters.
I don't know what powder they were usning in 1903...perhaps fine black, or one of the semi-smokeless types. By the 30's perhaps Lesssmoke or some other smokeless?
There were no loading impliments..Gary showed how the little bullet was a nice light press in case mouth..done with fingers.
No doubt these guys had their own pet lube formulas, etc.
Those nice straight black powder groups by John Boy shows what can be done!