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Bazoo,
Don't get excited about running out and buying some ground walnut hulls.
That is if you can meet up with me at Elizabethtown Community Technical College sometime Monday or Wednesday afternoon.
I have a container of ground hulls that were used for jet engine parts cleaning(I was told-so??) up until it was discovered they were leaving powder in some delicate passages.
Not real good.
Anyhoo, reply by PM and I'll respond and we can maybe work out a time and place and I'll give you some in a plastic bag or ??
Thanks.
A soak in water with citric acid may be helpful. I tumble with stainless pins, about a gallon of water, one teaspoon Armor-all wash-n-wax with 1/2 to 1 teaspoon citric acid. Two hours tumbling and cases are like brand new. The old vibratory bowl and walnut shell don't get used much anymore.
I use the lyman media. No problems with it at all.
It was real nice to meet up and visit a while with kywoodwrkr wednesday. Thank you again sir for the boost in media to try.
Ok, just came home with my Black Friday purchase, Frankford Arsenal tumbler. $129.00 at CABELA`S
Now what I'm I putting in for cleaning and polishing? I have Dawn dish soap and Lemi-shine. Have seen some posts adding Armour All wax or Polish. Won't the soap and Polish work against each other?
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Treated walnut is better for cleaning. Treated corn Cob is better for polishing.
years ago a local electrical component manufacturer ordered the wrong mesh size corn cob media and sold it for less than they paid for it in huge bags. Filled up four 5-gallon buckets and have been using it the last 25 years or so. Tried various additives and finally settled on a cap full or two of turtle wax chrome polish. No ammonia and works very well to make brass clean and shiny. I'm down to the last couple gallons of the corn cob and am really thinking about just getting the SS pins.
Is it soot, or is it sealant?
Either way, some of those ceramic chips from harbor freight might help.
Sealant? Like what?
2011redrider, Thanks I'll try that. The first batch was some that was already cleaned. Wanted to get primer holes cleaner. Was amazed how dirty water ! Primer holes were very clean,but over all brass was dull. Had to dry tumble to shine back up. I like clean/shiny brass. Have been loading for about 6/7 years. Hornady LocknLoad progressive. Dies still look clean.
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I had a frankford arsenal tumbler before, the cheapest one.. and if I recall correctly, it wasnt nearly as aggressive as the cabelas tumbler i have now. The cabelas tumbler is made by berry's i believe.
Harbor Freight has the walnut shells used in blasting in a fine and course size. I use course in drum tumbler and cut/mix in about a tablespoon of "Mothers Chrome and Mag polish". The polish is the paste formula and has to be completely mixed with media. Usually good for 4-5 cleanings before more is needed. Works very well and brass will be shiny.
I have been using Frankford Arsenal #5 corn with Midway polishing liquid in my vibratory tumblers for years. Have been very happy. I have moved over to a wet / SS pins to clean primer holes. I am now experimenting with different cleaners now.
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I havent tried any of the new to me media yet, but will report back when I do.
Anybody mixing medias?
To the OP:
I'm curious what type of factory ammo, brass, powder, etc. that you are using when you get this problem. I sometimes have a comparable problem with W748 powder in .308 Win cartridges. I would simply scrub the outside of the necks with steel wool before tumbling. However, the tumbling isn't going to get any carbon buildup inside the case completely clean.
I have some 308 brass that has been neck sized 8-10 times after each firing since the initial FL sizing, and has never been annealed except at the factory. It's possible that since the load I used isn't a maximum load that the combination of that powder, brass needing annealing, and low end loads are not allowing the brass to seal off the chamber completely before some expanding gasses blow by the neck, then getting embedded into the outside of the neck as the gasses finally force the neck to seal off.
Just a thought.
I was using w748 in the 30-30 and AA9 in 44 magnum. Both were starting loads, but the 44 mag should seal.