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+1 on Flitz. I ran an 8" Silver Snake for a dozen years in competition shooting, with cast. Do not use a copper solvent on the gun and leave it on the gun when stored.....real Nickel plate is copper over steel, with nickel plate on top of the copper, a chip, crack or scratch will expose the copper to the solvent. Good idea to pull the grips, remove all of the oil under the grips, then wax the nickel plate under the grips, put grips back on.
Before you try to polish anything, make very sure the finish is not satin nickel, it will not polish well.
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Careful with the polishes. I had one change the color of a nickel S&W. Factory nickel seems almost golden. After the polish it was more like chrome. If you are determined, take off the grips and try it somewhere it won't show.
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Flitz is pretty hard to beat as a gun polish. I use it often, and not just on guns.
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Fritz delivers fast two days from Wisconsin to Texas. Very nice to deal with too.
Thanks for the tips guys.
I will definitely start under the grips.
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For a fine polish and or clean up Instead of cloths I use natural cotton balls. charge with the polish and use replace often. Polishing the pad used will pick up dirt and material then carry it in the polish and create new scratches if used to long. Another trick for tight areas is to work a cotton ball into the bristles if a tooth brush This gives a comfortable handle to work with and get into tight areas. Also the handle provides a consistent pressure to polish with.
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I would just wipe it down with a Silicone Gun Rag and be done with it.
Here's my S&W 696 oops it made out of Stainless. But Stainless has a lot of Nickle in it, that's what makes it Stainless.
Randy
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Renaissance Micro-Crystalline wax polish. It's not cheap but it it is good stuff. If your gun doesn't have a lot of scratches, this will polish it beautifully. If it is scratched, THEN you can go the Flitz route and then use Renaissance to protect it. Take the stocks off and was the inside of them along with the frame.