Marlin 1894C forearm

Hello neighbors,

I want to replace the forearm on one of my Marlin 1894C's. I want to try one of the Ranger Point Precision aluminum forearms. I'm not trying to go tacticool.

My rifle has a tendency to bend rear band screws, sometimes to the point that they are hard to remove. I have broken a couple over the years also.

Do any of you guys have any experience with the Ranger Point forearm and will it fix my problem?

Thanks in advance for your help.

Are the rear band screws being bent under recoil?

I haven't any experience with that forearm. I have broken a rear band screw under recoil though with stout load of 15 grains 2400 under a 358156 in 357 Magnum Cases. Is there fix for this?

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Originally Posted by FergusonTO35

Are the rear band screws being bent under recoil?

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Yes, the rear band screws are being bent due to recoil.

I admit that I shoot a lot of loads right at the maximum published limits.

One thing I have done to fix the problem is putting some RTV on the forearm to basically glue it to the barrel near the receiver. That has held up pretty well.

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Originally Posted by Bazoo

I haven't any experience with that forearm. I have broken a rear band screw under recoil though. Stout load of 15 grains 2400 under a 358156. Is there fix for this?

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I don't know about a permanent fix. That's why I am looking at replacing the fore end.

Is an maximum load necessary for your application? Occasional upper end loads are fine for particular applications are fine, i.e. hunting, but a steady diet of max loads and things are coming apart. I hunt deer with a .357, I shoot max loads out of it.....about five a year, rest of the year she's a plinker. Good luck with your quandary.

You're probably right but I have two other 1894's that shoot the same loads repeatedly with no problems and have done so for years. I think I will order the handguard from RPP and see what happens.

Thanks friends.

Bending the forearm band screw due to recoil seems to be common on Marlin 336 and 1894, early 444 rifles with forearm bands. The forearm band screw is a skinny thing with the threads at the head of the screw. I have replaced the screw with an 8-40, setting the head into the band and threading the end into the opposite side of the band. The barrel notch then needs to be deepened. Not really technical work, but you should go slow and pay attention. You can also change the forearm to have a cap, but a dovetail will need to filed or cut into the barrel. The dovetail support, screws and cap are available from several parts place, Numrich, others...

I was thinking about going the end cap route. There is a very good gunsmith locally that I have used before. I think I will give him a call and see if he would want to take the job.

Thanks every one.

End cap is the way to go. JES in his harder recoiling rebores recommends the forend cap as opposed to the rear barrel band.

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Originally Posted by Shawlerbrook

End cap is the way to go. JES in his harder recoiling rebores recommends the forend cap as opposed to the rear barrel band.

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Wow, that's good to know. I just had JES re-bore one of my Springfields to 35 Whelen. Outstanding work.

Thanks for that.

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Originally Posted by Jeff Michel

Is an maximum load necessary for your application? Occasional upper end loads are fine for particular applications are fine, i.e. hunting, but a steady diet of max loads and things are coming apart. I hunt deer with a .357, I shoot max loads out of it.....about five a year, rest of the year she's a plinker. Good luck with your quandary.

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I shoot max loads out of 357 rifle and full sized Handguns a lot, if not most of the time. Course a max 357 is about the same as a Skeeter load in 44 Special in my estimation, it's a very useful power level.