Reloading Bench Rehab

I guess this is where this belongs...

I need to re-do my reloading bench, badly. I made it at least 10 years ago by building a particle board cabinet underneath and using a solid core door as the top.

The bench has served yeomen duty as both a work bench for carpentry and a reloading bench but as you can well imagine the veneer on the door is absolutely shot and it's detracting from my reloading.

A while back I started watching Ultimate Reloader on YouTube and was very taken by his using the t-track material to make a "modular" space. Since I'm so crowded for space I drilled four holes in my bench and put t-nuts and I have my two standard reloading presses mounted on risers and a plywood platform that bolts down in seconds and is very very secure.

My Dillon RL550C lives bolted down at one corner on an Inline Fabrication stand. I can easily un-bolt it and put it on a plywood bottom the same size as the others and use Gavin's idea of the t-track and wing nuts to move and lock everything down.

So here's where I'm looking for input; I'd like to get some t-track and after scraping off the veneer layer of the door I'll put down particle board of the appropriate thickness and have the two track running where I want them and I'm looking for input from someone who's done this. Pictures? Recommendations on a particular t-track?

Looking forward to your input, thanks.

I’ve used t-track for building router table jigs, table saw carriers, drill press tables, etc. I use the brand Woodcraft carries, I think it’s Incra, just because it’s handy and I like the staff at the store. In each case I route a channel into 3/4” plywood, press it in, and screw it down. For your application I’d put down your new surface, use some scrap to set the router depth, clamp a couple straight edges to the surface and in less time than it took to write this you’ll be good to go. No router, fake it with a circular saw set to depth and clean up with a chisel. Use screws long enough to get into the wood below, short screws will pull out of chip board.

Jim, thanks for the input. I'd completely forgotten about Woodcraft, we have one here in town!

I'll see what they have.

I could do the router method; the caveat is that all my tools except for drills, one circular saw and a grinder are in storage. After my wife passed away I was forced to move in with my kids and they generously let me use most of a small single car garage, it would be an act of congress but I could find a router and move the bench outside for a routing operation.

Addendum: I checked the Woodcraft site and they have lots of options.

I do like the cam action hold down they offer, I hadn't thought about that for securing the plywood plates.

Question: Gavin talks about using a bigger t-track from Peachtree manufacturing since it uses a 3/8" bolt versus a 1/4" bolt, for strength; think that matters that much?

I went to an dealer in architectural salvage and bought thick oak boards that came out of the floor of a cotton warehouse for the bench top. Then at one end I bolted down my Rock Chucker. At the other end I marked where the bolts would go for my LAM II and my RCBS bench primer. I drilled through the bench and put T-nuts beneath the bench. Then I use eyebolts with a washer to hold down my items when I need them. Simple and works great,

The larger T track gives you added strength, not because of the larger bolt, but because of the added thickness of the track itself. I'd go with the larger stuff if it were me.

I've done the bolt down with t-nuts and it works fine but in my current configuration it's limiting, if I had the t-track I could slide whatever, wherever I wanted.

I think I see what you mean Bazoo about the t-track being thicker.

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Originally Posted by dddddmorgan

I guess this is where this belongs...

I need to re-do my reloading bench, badly. I made it at least 10 years ago by building a particle board cabinet underneath and using a solid core door as the top.

The bench has served yeomen duty as both a work bench for carpentry and a reloading bench but as you can well imagine the veneer on the door is absolutely shot and it's detracting from my reloading.

A while back I started watching Ultimate Reloader on YouTube and was very taken by his using the t-track material to make a "modular" space. Since I'm so crowded for space I drilled four holes in my bench and put t-nuts and I have my two standard reloading presses mounted on risers and a plywood platform that bolts down in seconds and is very very secure.

My Dillon RL550C lives bolted down at one corner on an Inline Fabrication stand. I can easily un-bolt it and put it on a plywood bottom the same size as the others and use Gavin's idea of the t-track and wing nuts to move and lock everything down.

So here's where I'm looking for input; I'd like to get some t-track and after scraping off the veneer layer of the door I'll put down particle board of the appropriate thickness and have the two track running where I want them and I'm looking for input from someone who's done this. Pictures? Recommendations on a particular t-track?

Looking forward to your input, thanks.

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A source of great T-Track (as well as tons of other stuff :)) is Rocklers. Not the least expensive, as a rule, but the QUALITY of product one gets is more than commensurate! https://www.rockler.com/workshop-acc...ockler-t-track
geo

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Originally Posted by Bazoo

The larger T track gives you added strength, not because of the larger bolt, but because of the added thickness of the track itself. I'd go with the larger stuff if it were me.

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Agree with this. In my woodworking applications the pressure on the track to hold a workpiece is probably a lot less than the pressure that will be created when operating a press. Go big!

Edit: just saw this larger track on sale https://www.hvalleytools.com/product...-track/t-track

I am using t-track on my drill press table. I've started using some large shaping drills and have to clamp the wood down tight. I just pulled my T-track and epoxied it down. Then replaced the screws and added a couple. My clamps were lifting the track and not holding. If you have any lifting force glue it down good, don't just screw it.

Masonire (tempered fiber board) makes an great, easily replaced work surface for a work bench.

Masonite? typo maybe? I've never heard of Masonire......if it's different from Masonite, then I'm curious, having been a builder all my life.....I hate finding out about a product I could've used but never known about. ;)

I do like to use Masonite for a lot of things, and it would work for this project, but I much prefer Formica from Home Depot. (or any brand of laminated counter top.) I like the looks of a wood edge for such, like shown in the picture of my bench below. It's put on with a contact adhesive, where, using a notched trowel, you spead it over both the top and the existing bench top.....let it dry to the touch and carefully place it together. Permanent on contact. I know that scares some people but it's really quite easy to do it.

I use a trick a countertop man showed me once, using old venetian blind members that are curved in cross-section. I place them front to back on the benchtop every 4 to 5 inches, to provide a "standoff" between dried adhesive on the bench top and the dried adhesive under the Formica top......lay the Formica on, place it where you want it, then start removing blinds one at a time and press down until all blind members are removed and then press the Formica down even harder everywhere using a rubber or plastic mallet and short 2x4 under it.....instant finished top.....no paint....lasts for longer than you'll live.

Then, once you have a new top you can get out your router and rout grooves for your track if that's really what you want. I don't bother with track, having found it plenty good and strong, and easier, just to use Inline Fabrication mounts.

As for your existing door with lamination problems, couldn't you just glue it back, sand, and just place the formica?

For bench edging I used Alder hardwood 3/4"x 1 1/2" facing stained and varnished. I like the idea of raising that a 1/16" or so above the bench to stop rolling bullets and cases from falling on the floor. But I'm old enough to find it a royal PIA to search the floor for and picking up dropped components. I do suggest a router to clean up formica edges using a flush bit.

https://i.postimg.cc/136PZYWv/IMG-0429.jpg

That's a very old picture.....3 presses and a bench primer later I have much less room and thankfully discovered Inline Fab mounts to quick change what I'm using......and I use an old horizontal file cabinet to store the presses not being used. Below:

https://i.postimg.cc/yYFH8Nww/IMG-4279.jpg

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Originally Posted by GWS

Masonite? typo maybe? I've never heard of Masonire......if it's different from Masonite, then I'm curious, having been a builder all my life.....I hate finding out about a product I could've used but never known about. ;)

I do like to use Masonite for a lot of things, and it would work for this project, but I much prefer Formica from Home Depot. (or any brand of laminated counter top.) I like the looks of a wood edge for such, like shown in the picture of my bench below. It's put on with a contact adhesive, where, using a notched trowel, you spead it over both the top and the existing bench top.....let it dry to the touch and carefully place it together. Permanent on contact. I know that scares some people but it's really quite easy to do it.

I use a trick a countertop man showed me once, using old venetian blind members that are curved in cross-section. I place them front to back on the benchtop every 4 to 5 inches, to provide a "standoff" between dried adhesive on the bench top and the dried adhesive under the Formica top......lay the Formica on, place it where you want it, then start removing blinds one at a time and press down until all blind members are removed and then press the Formica down even harder everywhere using a rubber or plastic mallet and short 2x4 under it.....instant finished top.....no paint....lasts for longer than you'll live.

Then, once you have a new top you can get out your router and rout grooves for your track if that's really what you want. I don't bother with track, having found it plenty good and strong, and easier, just to use Inline Fabrication mounts.

As for your existing door with lamination problems, couldn't you just glue it back, sand, and just place the formica?

For bench edging I used Alder hardwood 3/4"x 1 1/2" facing stained and varnished. I like the idea of raising that a 1/16" or so above the bench to stop rolling bullets and cases from falling on the floor. But I'm old enough to find it a royal PIA to search the floor for and picking up dropped components. I do suggest a router to clean up formica edges using a flush bit.

https://i.postimg.cc/136PZYWv/IMG-0429.jpg

That's a very old picture.....3 presses and a bench primer later I have much less room and thankfully discovered Inline Fab mounts to quick change what I'm using......and I use an old horizontal file cabinet to store the presses not being used.

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Nice setup.

yes a typo....Formica is nice, but he already said he beat the veneer to splinters on his current top. Masonite is cheap to replace and makes a great, sacrificial, work surface for work benches.

Well I've pretty much come to the conclusion that I'm going to peel the veneer and put my t-track where I want it and fill in with particle board topped with masonite to bring it flush or a stitch above the track. This will be so much easier and faster than me finding my router and setting it up after I've pulled the bench out of the garage and I have to do all this in the alley that everyone else uses for parking...

I do appreciate the reminder of edging with hardwood, this will certainly help with the durability and abrasion resistance that the edge certainly suffers.

GWS I'd love to have as much room as you do, I'm terribly jealous.

Formica is great and easy to keep clean but as discussed, does not take a beating. I picked up a large sheet of 1/2" thick polypropylene so lay on top of the Formica in my principal work area (in the assembly/disassembly area where the beating is done. The polypropylene is not so easy to keep clean, but it really takes a beating.
Attachment 321473

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Originally Posted by rbwillnj

Formica is great and easy to keep clean but as discussed, does not take a beating. I picked up a large sheet of 1/2" thick polypropylene so lay on top of the Formica in my principal work area (in the assembly/disassembly area where the beating is done. The polypropylene is not so easy to keep clean, but it really takes a beating.
Attachment 321473

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Incredible set up!