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I fired over a hundred of these at a steel plate then went down range and couldn't find a single fragment. Time to go hunting for a water jugs [emoji41]https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...13969bebef.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...d493a62d3f.jpg
What is the mold number or nomenclature?
https://www.mp-molds.com/product/359...-multi-choice/Quote:
Originally Posted by Elpatoloco
I appreciate it. Looks like you just cost me $110 plus shipping!
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Don't blame me for a good time!!! The mold is extremely easy to cast a lot of excellent bullets when it is up to temperature. Have you cast hollow points from a brass mold before??Quote:
Originally Posted by Elpatoloco
I got my first Hollow Point mold about 2 weeks ago. It is a MP brass mold as well. I was stunned at how well it throw slugs and the ease at which it operates. It likes everything HOT and runs as fast as I can keep lead in the pot. Only hang ups are if I add any cold lead to the pot. Takes a bit to get back hot enough.Quote:
Originally Posted by Recycled bullet
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Which mold did you get , you might cost me $110.Quote:
Originally Posted by Elpatoloco
I cast over a turkey fryer and I stick the mold right into the Flames for 25 seconds two or four times to get the mold up to temperature. I wipe it with a 100% cotton rag that is soaked in synthetic two-stroke oil and this cleans any and all smearing from the mold and it also is a visual indication of the correct temperature. When the rag visibly steams then the mold is very close to the correct temperature. I like it to take 5 to 8 seconds for the sprue puddle to freeze.
I'm sure that a hot plate would work just as well to preheat the mold although I have never used a hot plate for bullet casting.
Attempting to operate this mold when it is not hot enough is extremely frustrating especially with the deeper hollow point pins.
When everything's up to temperature my only limitation is how long do I want to sit in front of a hot pot of molten lead. In my case I tend to cash out after 15 lb. This mold cast so good that less than a handful fail my visual inspection. These bullets are so good to shoot out of the Ruger Blackhawk with Hodgdon h110.
Also I found the best results with lead temperature between 850-900°F I am using the thermometer sold by Roto metals.
MP 358-200 I believe is what the mold is. I messed up and got the 2 gang as I was sure it would be a steep learning curve. Boy, was I ever wrong.Quote:
Originally Posted by Recycled bullet
I use a Lee Super Drip 4-20.....with No thermometer. I recently started using a hot plate. Cheapest one I could buy from walmart. I set a worn out circle saw blade on top of the element and the mold goes on top of the blade.
I have yet to graduate to the use of the PID controls.....which is silly as I work in industrial automation. I guess I dont cast enough to make it worth my while.
This mold makes slugs that are +/- .5 grain with the least effort of any mold that I own. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...3180c7582f.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...73fa809d73.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...36345e7c2d.jpg
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That is a really cool looking bullet and mold. What cartridges and guns are you shooting it out of? It looks kind of similar to the Lee clone of the RCBS 35 20. I used to use the Lee 35-200 I had the two cavity mold until it broke unfortunately I was loading it in 38 Special brass and shooting it from revolvers and a bolt action 357 magnum rifle. There's two very similar bullet molds that MP molds makes not sure which one I should get or if I should just bite the bullet and get both:-)Quote:
Originally Posted by Elpatoloco
It is a copy of the Lee, which is a copy of the RCBS. I just started loading them in 350 Legend for a bolt action Ruger and an AR pattern Ruger.Quote:
Originally Posted by Recycled bullet
Have yet to get a load worked up.
Will likely run some through the blackhawk as well.
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