Disk Blade Targets

Had a couple of 20" real hard cutter head, scalloped disk blades that I broke off my House HD disk set, long story, helping a neighbor cut fire breaks at a rapid pace on a burn. No good deed shall go unpunished.

Tried to drill the disc blades with drill bits, and a flat end mill bit, no go. So I locked the blades in my Bridgeport with the vice, a 2x4 juniper block and a bar clamp. Then got out a ball end four flute solid carbide bit, a squeeze bottle of tap magic and cut four 3/8 holes 1/6" at a lick, for carriage bolts and heavy chain to hang them at 250 meters on my range. Should make a good cast bullet target set.

If you need to cut or drill spring steel, the ball end mill bit in a mill will do it, using plenty of oil and taking your time to cool the bit.

A carbide tipped cement drill will work too. I wish you luck settled disk blades and they shattered after a few shots.

Disk blades DO make good enough targets but hanging them can be a challenge. Welding chain to them works for awhile but eventually the blade will crack next to the weld. Like you said, a drill will not touch it, so a hole cannot be made that way. Only way I have found to make a hole is with a cutting torch and then a length of chain can be bolted to the blade. Also, a disk blade stands up quite well to 9mm, .38 special, .357, and .45 colt, but the projectile from a .223 will put a small, clean hole right through the blade and barely even make it wiggle.

Years back, making your own skid plate for your dirt bike was popular.

The common thing to use was a shovel.
Most guys couldn't drill holes in them either, so the approved method then was to use a .357Mag. to drill the mounting holes.

an SKS with steel core ammo makes nice clean holes in steel...so I'm told [smilie=1:

Yep a j bullet at 3K plus will burn a hole through hard steel out to about 150, to a point in thickness and the big thumpers will break spring steel, with repeated pounding. If you keep the shooters to low velocity with j bullets or cast bullets the targets on a private range should be pretty safe from destruction. May need to move one hole up a tooth for the hang. Looking at ye pictures, may have hem to close to perfect balance.

This is the rough result, mill cut holes still must be chamfered and surface wire wheeled then spray painted black. I may stick an advertising sign behind, for smarties that shoot center or over and claim..... Berm is 12-15' high.

Marlin 45-70 with Elmer´s load made nice holes.

Just be careful with jacketed bullets that penetrate the steel. Been hit several times with jacket material hard enough to draw blood. With the right High velocity combo lead splashes threw and jacket can come back. Cast boolits have never been a problem for me. My 2 cents Be safe.

Just asking because I don't know and would like to learn, but could the disc be annealed slightly to remove some of the brittleness of the steel and still remain strong enough for targets?

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Originally Posted by Finster101

Just asking because I don't know and would like to learn, but could the disc be annealed slightly to remove some of the brittleness of the steel and still remain strong enough for targets?

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Would take alot of gas, that is a large surface. And a concentrated Flame makes it Spotty...literally. Something like a Rosebud would be better, and, Use more gas yet. Could get expensive. Maybe a medium size Forge...

Annealing will help you dont have to get it red hot to do this the easiest way would be to dig a shallow pit slightly smaller than the blade. Build a charcoal fire in the pit and sit the disc blade over it let it burn the better part of a day keeping the blade hot around 600-800 degrees.

This will be temporary as the vibrations from shooting it will work harden it back to where it was and more. The other issue will be impacts stretching one side more than the other creating stresses. Annealing will make drilling holes easier also.

Polish the top side of the blade bright when on the fire a nice bright blue color will come hold it and this will toughen the steel but not overly soften it.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Finster101

Just asking because I don't know and would like to learn, but could the disc be annealed slightly to remove some of the brittleness of the steel and still remain strong enough for targets?

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Yes, build a fire, heat the steel, and bury in the fire until completely cold.

Be careful...Bullets hitting that curved surface are going to ricochet like a mother

Actually, jacketed bullets should NEVER be used on steel targets, and I will obey that rule just as soon as I use up all of my current 9mm ammo.

I would suspect the metal is probably a lot like a radial saw blade in steel and hardness . We had one hanging by the hole at a club muzzle loading shoot at 100 yards . A lead round ball over 110 grains FFG from my .58 Cal Kodiak shattered it into small pieces . It may have been badly cracked as it had been up for quite a few previous shooters .
Out at 250 meters with cast bullets it should last you a while unless you shoot a really large caliber . I have been surprised just how much damage fast lead bullets even dead soft can do to steel . The 250 meters will cut the speed a lot for your targets survival.

I bought some steel targets years ago on closeout, and IIRC they were not very expensive (three 6" for $20). Sometimes not having a lot of tools, or much knowledge, and being lazy makes for a better outcome.

Did a quick search and found these. Four targets of 1/2" AR500 $62 delivered.

https://shootsteel.com/product/1-2-a...undle-4-and-6/