Came upon some vintage .303 marked 'FN 66', it's Berdan primed but I think (hope) it's non corrosive....Price was right and it came home with me anyway, just need to know which way to go about cleaning afterwards.
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Came upon some vintage .303 marked 'FN 66', it's Berdan primed but I think (hope) it's non corrosive....Price was right and it came home with me anyway, just need to know which way to go about cleaning afterwards.
Much of the FN ammo remained corrosive well into the 1960s. Much being imported came back from the Middle East where it was stored in poor conditions so you may get some hangfires and misfires. If it all goes bang consider it a victory and clean for corrosive.
I probably had some from the same importer .......174gr boat tail bullets and ball powder ......I dont know if it was corrosive or not ...as I am in the habit of properly cleaning rifles straight after firing.using hot water ..........anyhoo ,it shot very well in my repaired Ross DP and my Martini Enfield with new Lithgow H barrel................It had been in my safe for 20 years when I fired it........worked perfectly .........unlike some other surplus I had as well ..RG 56 .
If you think its corrosive ,then hot water through the bore is the approved cleaning method ........this is especially the case if you live in a humid climate..........make an offset funnel with a bit of copper tube and a cartridge case ........this setup is also essential for blackpowder
Ballistol is another method.
I have always used the funnel and hot water flush, followed by Ed's Red and never had any rust.Quote:
Originally Posted by challenger_i
My understanding is the Brits NEVER made a non-corrosive service round through the entire period the .303 was being used. Treat it like corrosive.
If you're taking a thermos of hot water to the range, one of those flexible plastic automotive funnels intended for snaking down into an engine compartment to add transmission fluid is a decent substitute for the old metal "trench funnels". I've taken to mixing up Ballistol/water "moose milk" and keeping it in a spray bottle for "at the range" corrosive and BP chores. Simplifies matters a little as it handles both your neutralization and oil barrier tasks.
Is your Martini an re done carbine. I have one marked Enfield Martini. It is alot of fun.
swamp
It's a Platypus Martini! Action is marked 1885 Enfield/VR on one side, 1895 Enfield .303/VR on the other. Barrel was a sewer pipe, replaced it with Mk.III No.1 barrel and fore end. Have a great Pattern 17 bayo to hang on it too.
Need to reload some more cast loads for it, will use the hot water bath and where can I get Ballistol??
Gebo's carry's Ballistol. Midway arms, if you do not mind ordering it.
Your markings show the rifle was an arsenal refit.
I have never worried about expensive cleaners ........if I was shooting corrosive ,then I would use boiling water and oil the bore while hot ........if non corrosive (I havent had any corrosive since 20 years now) then I just oil the bore after shooting .........Incidentally,because I use thick oil ,I always store guns muzzle down .........this is also a wise precaution here as there are 50 different kinds of insects that build nests in barrels.
Photos. You know what we say about photos. :mrgreen:
Brownells is also a source for Ballistol.
I have REALLY been coming to like the stuff when it comes to wiping down for long-term storage - that it also works on wood, leather, and neutralizing corrosive propellant agents and is non-toxic just adds bonus points.
I recently shot off some '53-dated '06 through my M1 and spray-bottled the Moose Milk Ballistol/Water mix down the still-hot barrel, which instantly negated the need to figure out how to bring boiling hot water to the range! A little hiss and sputter and leave soak on the way home as prep for the real cleaning - worked great!
What I REALLY need to do is run some side-by-side comparing undiluted Ballistol as a lube / CLP against my known quantity Break Free - ESPECIALLY in the bolt carriers of AR-15's. . .