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I have read that standard 98k military trigger assembly's final pull can be improved by stoning final pull's contact (contact angle??) with sear. Doing this apparently reduces or eliminates the double pull trigger assembly's inherent safety factor.
How can a standard 98k military trigger assembly's final pull be made less spongy while retaining the inherent safety factor where each pull position moves the cocking piece slightly rearward?
I stone the cocking piece edge where it mates to the trigger sear. Go slow and test often. You will not affect the 2 stage trigger as that is controlled by the trigger sear. You will get very good at bolt assemble/disassembly. You will need a stone because that is a heat treated part of the cocking piece (carburized).
please, sir, don't stone anything on a K98k trig, because once you have stoned on some surface-hardened part, spongy and more spongy trigger will be in your future.
(dont'ask how etc.)
let me the time to properly xplain how have a better trigger with some photo and correct part names here, as soon as I can_ again: put away stones & files, for now, please_
I build an Adjustable trigger for Mauser 98's
There have been several posts that had pictures of how I built it out of the factory trigger.
It had two screws.
One for the trigger adjustment.
The other for lessening the Overpull on the trigger once the trigger fires.
I wish I remembered what post those were done in.
Possibly looking up posts that I have done will bring it up.
Worth the cost of an after market adjustable trigger?
DG
And do some very vigorous testing with whatever trigger. Military bolt actions have shall we say a little more tolerance in some areas. You get that trigger feeling oh so good and the first time you lift bolt on loaded round and it goes bang bad things can happen.
I believe that what LAGS did is the most elegant solution, however this is what I found on an old VZ24 sniper, therefore a poor man's job, but surprisingly with a fine and safe double-stage trigger, so I had a good starting point about how much to shorten the spur on the sear on my next K98k_
this should preferably be done on a spare/donor sear, and in any case in small steps, especially if you've never done it.
one can progressively reduce the height of the spur.
it is clear that an excessive lowering would ruin the sear at best, and for this it must be done gradually.
this can be done with a Dremel cut-off wheel, progressively wearing out the spur by working with the wheel held flat, from the top, or by directly cutting off a small portion of the sear as indicated by the red dotted line. after the cut, to be performed taking care not to overheat (cutting oil or plain water), the very, very delicate deburring will be appropriate.
Wolff Blitzschnell Speedlock 30lbs. striker spring #62530 made me very happy, with it_
(if, on the other hand, I stubbornly insist to polish the sear, I would damage the surface hardening, with the result that the polishing seems ok at the moment, and after a few shots it is worse than before.
if you prefer to install an adjustable Timney, you will have to modify the stock internally and give up the double-stage: I did but I wasn't thrilled for multiple reasons)_
Attachment 317718
I have polished and even narrowed the sear tip to lighten the trigger pull.
I also re hardened them after polishing.
The replacement triggers like Timney and others are great.
But I was building so many 98's a few years back ,that buying a lot of replacement triggers got expensive.
Only the Full Custom rifles got the Timney or Boyds triggers.
The Rebuilds or Sporterized rifles got the home built adjustable triggers.
Back when I was young and just getting started doing gunsmithing.
I didn't have tons of money like I do now.
So Why Buy , When you can Build.
...I didn't go beyond buying a can of Kasenit, and I never got to try it. I believe it has still been there for twenty years, and I never had the confidence to use it_
for sure I've made so many mistakes that when something goes right it feels like a miracle, to me _
Kasenite is what I used for re hardening the sears.
They don't sell that any more,
But I still have a half a can left.
It works great.
...in fact I bought it after ruining the sear of my first K98 :(