Graphite Dry Lubricant Spray for Mold Release Agent

I thought that I would report on the forum my observations on using PB Blaster Graphite Dry Lubricant on my boolit molds as a release agent.
I had a couple rifle boolit molds (primarily hollow point molds for 8mm, 9mm and 9.5 mm Mannlicher) that didn't seem to drop boolits readily despite cleaning and prepping as usual. 2 molds are aluminum and one brass. I read on a manufacturer's web page about using a graphite pencil to coat the hollow point pin as a release agent. I tried this but still had problems with sticking.
I had an aerosol can of PB Blaster Graphite Dry Lubricant in my cabinet so I decided to give a mold a generous spraying in the cavities as well as on the pins. I figured that I could always wash the residue off with acetone if my experiment was a failure.
I was pleasantly surprised with the outcome! Boolits dropped nicely even with the hollow point pins. I even got brave with a new mold and decided to give it a try from the start.......same outcome.
This product can be purchased at most automotive parts stores or even big box hardwares stores such as Lowes and Home Depot.
I did a quick search on the forum and didn't see much info about using this product. Thought that I would pass my experience along.

That’s good to know. Thanks for the report!

I use the same product with good results and it's half the price of the spray mold release from midway.

You can use any of the "Dry" Spray Lubricants as a mould release agent .
The one I first read about here was Liquid Wrench Dry Lube ... it comes as a spray and a liquid (or it did come as a liquid) I apply the liquid to moulds with a Q-Tip , less waste . It doesn't contaminate , fights rust on steel moulds and sprue plates and doesn't need to be removed ...and best of all ... no build up !
The Dry Lubes are better than the Midway Mould release ... just because they don't form a thick build up . I've never tried the Blaster Graphite Dry Lube so don't know about buildup ... but if you see a buildup forming remove it before it gets too thick to cause problems .
That Midway stuff was a bear to get off my moulds ! Acetone and steel wool !
Gary

I made the mistake of trying the Midway spray a number of years ago. I've been gun shy of spray release lubes ever since. Not only did I not like the primary results of the spray lube getting the mould cleaned afterwards was more than a little trouble. I'll be following your thread to see what the consensus ends up being. Another option is always of interest.

BG products make a product called Brake Quite. It's made for squeaking brake pads. I coat my molds
with this stuff & nothing will stick to the cavity.
Attachment 316583

I tried a spray 30 years ago when I was starting out and found it was reducing diameter. I decided that stick matches were cheap.

My experience was much like David’s, I tried the Midway spray many years before I found this site, and it caused me nothing but grief. I think it actually made bullet release worse. And then it was very difficult to remove from the mold. Been apprehensive to try anything else like it.

I found that smoking the mold with a paraffin candle works the best, for me anyway.

I still like the Liquid Wrench Dry Lube L512 best ... it leaves no residue or build up .
L512 still comes in a 4 oz. liquid for Q-Tip application and an 11 oz. Spray Can .

If you have a can of the Midway Drop-Out mould release , the black stuff , use it to spray the inside walls of your melting pot , inside your ladles or dippers or ingot moulds ... lead wont cling to those areas and you wont muck up a good boolit casting mould with the stuff .

Gary

Following this thread,

For those casters using various forms of a mold release and using the powder coating process...have you observed any issues of powder coat not adhering to the bullets if you do this operation... Do you post-process the bullets (for example solvent wash) after casting and before powder coating?

Real-life experience is always the best, thanks to everyone for your input,

Paul

No problem at all

Quote:

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Originally Posted by gwpercle

You can use any of the "Dry" Spray Lubricants as a mould release agent .
The one I first read about here was Liquid Wrench Dry Lube ... it comes as a spray and a liquid (or it did come as a liquid) I apply the liquid to moulds with a Q-Tip , less waste . It doesn't contaminate , fights rust on steel moulds and sprue plates and doesn't need to be removed ...and best of all ... no build up !
The Dry Lubes are better than the Midway Mould release ... just because they don't form a thick build up . I've never tried the Blaster Graphite Dry Lube so don't know about buildup ... but if you see a buildup forming remove it before it gets too thick to cause problems .
That Midway stuff was a bear to get off my moulds ! Acetone and steel wool !
Gary

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Per your advice, I picked up a 4oz bottle on fleabay for $6 delivered. Hope to try it out next week. I also used some dry moly spray on the outside of the ladel to keep the clean. Works well, need to give it a good scrubbing and spray the inside.

Cheers,
Steve

Quote:

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Originally Posted by steveu

Per your advice, I picked up a 4oz bottle on fleabay for $6 delivered. Hope to try it out next week. I also used some dry moly spray on the outside of the ladel to keep the clean. Works well, need to give it a good scrubbing and spray the inside.

Cheers,
Steve

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I find using a Q-Tip to apply the Liquid Wrench Dry Lube works best , a bottle of the Liquid will go a L-O-N-G way . I love how it doesn't contaminate (cause wrinkles) in the cavities and can be left in cavities when stored . Coat top and bottom of sprue plate too ... no rust .
I'm glad they still make the liquid ...that and a Q-Tip is best way to apply inside mould and sprue plate. Thanks for heads up .

I've never tried Dry Moly Spray ... I will keep an eye out ... my can of Midway Drop Out , used for spraying pot sides and ladle , is getting low and I don't want any more Drop Out ... will go with the Dry Moly Spray . I like spraying the Ladle with something to keep the build up off and spraying the pot sides ...cuts down on cleaning time and increases casting time .

Thanks:drinks:Gary

Ive never done casting, but im going to have to start this year..

SO this spray lube stuff actually works? SO that i can avoid the endless match/butane lighter/torch process that LEE promises with their molds?

NAPA also sells a spray can of alcohol based graphite spray: works well enough, but as noted above, may decrease CB diameter. OTOH, wooden matches are quite inexpensive and also do the same job without decreasing CB diameter.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Maven

NAPA also sells a spray can of alcohol based graphite spray: works well enough, but as noted above, may decrease CB diameter. OTOH, wooden matches are quite inexpensive and also do the same job without decreasing CB diameter.

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and how many matches per bullet cavity half are we talking about? matches are hard to find where i live and for some reason, the good foreign made ones are really hard to find.

those green tipped matches, normally need to hit 3 at a time to get a single one to light up.

I used the liquid wrench liquid lube and. It is teflon. It worked ok. I used it on the outside of the moulds. I am following Larry Gibson’s advice on cleaning moulds and I have not had to use any on the cavities yet.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by steveu

I used the liquid wrench liquid lube and. It is teflon. It worked ok. I used it on the outside of the moulds. I am following Larry Gibson’s advice on cleaning moulds and I have not had to use any on the cavities yet.

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I prefer to use the Liquid Wrench DRY lube #L512 ... it works as a mould release and protects the outside during storage . It's not oily , greasy or messy ...dry Teflon film wipes right off and it doesn't need to be removed from cavities when you start casting with that mould again .
Liquid Wrench Dry Lube #L512 is the correct stuff .
Gary