Printable View
I got a few s&w 10 frames from jg sales back when they were cheaper and I'm getting parts together to build them up into woods guns and such. I want to build a medium weight 5" barrel and a target set up as well.
The guns have the shorter ejector rods, my question is it possible to switch the rod and cylinder barrel to accommodate a longer ejection rod or is it the whole cylinder that would need swapped?
Maybe I'm not quite following you here, but unless the ejector rods came off 2" guns they shouldn't need to be changed out. I've never encountered a difference in the length of rods for 4" and 6" barrels.....? And cylinder lengths are about the same for K Frames (Mod. 10) regardless of the ejector rod lengths.
DG
You can swap the ejector rod.
IIRC only the rod is needed - older models were thread opposite of newer ones -
Quote:
Originally Posted by Der Gebirgsjager
The J&G M10s he is referring to were originally snubbies.
Indeed , they were snubbies, but you need only the longer extractor rod and center pin of a modern type ( say 10-2 or higher). The older models 10 and 10-1 extractor rods were threaded opposite to the more recent guns. Both of mine were 10-8 models and I bought a 2' blued barrel for the one and put a model 64 2" bbl on the other that I got off ebay.
The 2" model 10 is an exceptionally good gun.
Sorry I didn't give that in a better light, they are the shorter rods and iirc as is they won't clear a 38 spl case fully thus I wish to put longer ones in.
I have multiple frames, one may get turned back into a snubbing, probably slab side bull barrel type.
Wolf, I'd make sure you buy a rod with the lefty threads. I've had an old M&P come loose and screwjack the cylinder. The guy at the range attributed it to "reloads". Comical.
I have only witnessed two lengths of rods as well at least for the 10's and the cylinders external dimensions appear the same although I will say the jg sales examples have heavily dehorned cylinder od at the front which can make it look shorter. The part number for the ejection star between say the s&w 10 and 12 are different in the khunhausen book but those images might have been taken in different eras as wellQuote:
Originally Posted by Der Gebirgsjager
I wholeheartedly agree, and the 3" heavy barreled Model 10's are great shooters as well. I have a 3" model that will shoot as well or better than some of my 4" and 6" Model 10's.Quote:
Originally Posted by rintinglen
Attachment 309046Attachment 309047
This is Pugly: fast becoming one of my favorite guns. Double action, at fifty yards. It, too, is a J&G gunsmith special.
Fitting the barrel was a tedious process, as I do not have a lathe, so had to sand the BBL. shoulder using 220 grit wet or dry glued to a 1/2 inch washer until I could get it to line up close enough to allow me to turn it. I made an insert to hold the barrel in my vice out of a piece of oak. I bought a Power Custom frame insert from Midway and made a frame wrench out of a piece of 1 1/2 x 1/4" steel and a couple of bolts. I have a Brownell's tool that allowed me to trim the barrel forcing cone and then recut an 11 Degree forcing cone to allow proper barrel- cylinder gap. Now, it is a sweet shooter. I will say that this is not a basic, beginner project for the amateur gunsmith. However, both my brother and I did 2 of them each, and all came out just fine.
He paid for hand select, but that is a waste in my view, for nether of his were in any better condition than mine. But now we each have two snubbies that would warm the hearts of most 1960's detectives. (Maybe a little on the rough side to look at, but all mechanically excellent).
I must have got a different batch than everyone else, mine all had poorly bobbed hammers like someone with a hacksaw did them. I found a stash of wide .500 k frame hammers iirc and am in the process of fitting those as well. At least to the woods walking gun. Also I saw there is a adjustable wundersight still made for the fixed sight versions I may get to play with if my load /sights are off etc.
I didn't opt for hand selected so that may have been a difference.
I bought two of those frames from JG and two 4" barrels from Ebay, but was afraid to attempt the installation without owning the proper tools. So, a local gunsmith got some business. One of them is out in my truck right now and I don't feel like getting up, but here is its' twin (it came with the chipped grip). Now I kind of wish I had purchased another, to assemble as a snubby. They both have some minor mechanical quirks, but they shoot very well.
Attachment 309323
Attachment 309324
That looks great, a little better condition than mine came in. I have some other Smith parts I may trade around or sell and get a barrel like that on one of them.
Shame one of my barrels in my parts bins is a fairly new looking 5"? 38s&w barrel...it's in grease and I have not slugged it but I imagine they did use a different bore diameter for those even in wartime production.
I believe it was .360, but I'm too lazy to verify that.
I can't even fit an old 38 S&W round into my cylinder, so I think you'd definitely havesome problems, unless you used a heeled bullet, perhaps.
What i was wondering was did they use the same barrel blank in 38s&w as 38 spl....I used to have a 38s&w and know there is a difference in bullet size etc.
I'll have to just slug it and see