32-40 from 38-55

This is a repeat of a question I asked at the tail end of another thread.

I recently have acquired a 32-40. Have not as of yet reloaded or fired same but am in the component building stage.

After reading numerous threads on case lube, dies, using 30-30 / 32 Win Sp., 30 American, 38-55 as parent cases and failures etc.
I thought I would ask if anyone has experience with a reforming die set that RCBS markets to resize 38-55 down to 32-40. vs. just using the 32-40 sizing die to accomplish the task.

The number on the RCBS box is 58220 CSDS .32-40 Win from 38-55 Win

I can only presume that this specialty die set is tapered in such a fashion as to be less likely to wrinkle / fold or damage the cases. I know if too much lube is used or if the standard resizing die is not cleaned, a buildup of lube can acause problems.

Thanks in advance.

Bob in Saint Augustine.

I have no experience with that die set. I have made many 32-40's from 30-30 Win. It is very simple to do. The length may concern you. I never found it to be an issue. If length is an issue, be sure you start with longer brass

As Cast..
Thanks..
I take it you are just using a standard 32-40 full length sizing die..?

Bob in Saint Augustine

I use the RCBS Cowboy dies #32550 and the star-line 38-55 long 2.125 brass , I anneal the brass first then size going down on the case about 1/4 in. then rotate the case about 140 degrees and repeat until full length is obtained then expand the mouth and trim to length out of 50 cases i do sometimes get one that wants to crease but if you catch it when it first starts you can expand the neck back out then work back down slowly .

Thanks fitz..!

Actually, the 30-30 is fire formed n the rifle. Take a fired 30-30 put it in your 32-40 chamber. It should drop in and the action close with NO issues. Then, prime that case, put in 10 grns of Unique, fill to case neck with cream of wheat or rice (dry uncooked), and a twist of toilet paper to hold it in. Put in gun, point straight up, pull trigger. You should be able to run these through your 32-40 dies as is. You may want to trim to length or uniform length. These will probably be a tad short. It never caused any issues for me in 2 guns. You next loading will be full power practice. That will ensure the brass is fully blown out. You maybe want to skip this step primers situation being what it is good luck
.

Thanks

I've fireformed a number of cases that way.
My goal is to get correct length brass so the 38-55 brass I have is what I'm going to start with.

My 35-40 dies do a pretty good job on lengthening 38-55 brass. with some ending up at 2.140.
With that in mind I'll run a few thru those dies first then thru the 32-40..

THX..

i found it harder to go from 38 55 to 32 40
easier to do with 30 30 less lost cases
yes a little short but your not filling the case with powder

I form both 38 55 and 32 40 from 30 30 using the sizer dies. The length difference has never been an issue.

Turtle,
THX for your input.
With soft lead and a short case I understand the gap between the top of the case and the end of the chamber will fill
with lead leaving a ring of lead that is detrimental to accuracy.

pworley,
THX for your post. Are you shooting hard or soft lead?

I have 2 x 32/40's one (1906) that slugs at 0.324" and accepts 8mm boolits and another (1927) with standard 0.321". All cases have been formed from virgin 38/55 Winchester brass.

https://i.imgur.com/kAWVgGkl.jpg

Quote:

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Originally Posted by rjmelehan

pworley,
THX for your post. Are you shooting hard or soft lead?

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Mostly CWW with a little added tin.

Bob - I shoot a Marlin 1893 in .32-40 and make ALL my brass from .30-30. I rarely lose a case in the process.

I start with fired .30-30, open the necks the last few thou with my Lyman 32 M Die, with a little lanolin around the inside of the case mouth, then full length size in my Lee .32-40 die without the decapping assembly, again with anhydrous lanolin as the case lube. Finally. I hit the necks again with the 32 M Die to clean up. After fireformimg I thereafter size in a Lyman .32 Special FLS die, effectively just neck sizing. From fired .30-30 to fireformed .32-40 the brass grows about .025".

I lightly outside neck turn my .30-30s to max neck thickness of .010", i.e. scrape off the high spots, before expanding the necks, but this may just be an indulgence. You will however notice that when you expand a case with variable neck thickness, the thin side will yield more than the thick side, increasing the variation in thickness, and resulting in a crooked case mouth. It will also cause that lopsided look when you seat a bullet and all the neck expansion and bulge is on one side of the bullet.

It also helps to square the .30-30 case mouths with the case trimmer before expanding the cases. This helps achieve an even expansion. Just square them, not a full on trim, since we want to keep the cases as long as possible. And don't even think of evening up the lengths until after you have shot them a couple of times as .32-40s. I actually leave them alone once the mouths are square. The M die will give the same length of tight neck regardless of case length, within reason.

Concern over reformed .30-30 cases being "too short" is natural, however many or most .30-30 chambers are a lot longer than their brass and noone gets excited about that. Ignorance is bliss I suppose. My .32-40 as I recall has a 2.125" chamber. My 1949 Marlin 336A .30-30 chamber is about 2.150" and my Savage 99 is 2.120" or 2.130". If .32-40 brass made from .30-30s is "too short" then ordinary .30-30 brass should also be too short in many or most .30-30 chambers. My testing of long neck .30-30 brass made from .38-55 has yet to show a measureable improvement of accuracy over standard brass.

The other concern might be crimping, but I have found no need to crimp either .30-30 or .32-40 with cast bullets, so that also is a non-issue for me.

In short: Ordinary .32-40 dies and ordinary .30-30 brass will do a pretty good job for you.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by ascast

Actually, the 30-30 is fire formed n the rifle. Take a fired 30-30 put it in your 32-40 chamber. It should drop in and the action close with NO issues. Then, prime that case, put in 10 grns of Unique, fill to case neck with cream of wheat or rice (dry uncooked), and a twist of toilet paper to hold it in. Put in gun, point straight up, pull trigger.

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I used to use the same method for making .30-06 AI from reegular .30-06 brass as well as .300 Weatherby from .300 H&H. With those you can just fire factory ammunition in the improved chamber but you will lose a few from splits in the shoulder.

Jim

What Fitz said will get you full length cases w/ almost or no loss. I will add, expand case mouth prior to forming to reduce folding.

Gentlemen, Thanks for all the input and suggestions.
All great points..