Getting started with reloading for my S&W Model 10-5?

Hi there! I'm Joe.
I'm a last time gun loaner and first time gun owner! I've had my share of good firearm experiences and now I've purchased my first piece all my own: A Smith and Wesson Model 10-5 from approximately 1969, off of Gunbroker.com.

Attachment 267760

The finish is fairly beat up, but the internals are just great. Shot 36 rounds of PPU 130gr FMJ .38 Special through it no problem and collected all the brass. However, since I only have ONE box of .38 special with little to no chance to purchase a new box for any reasonable price, it seems to me that the best course of action is to figure out how to safely reload ammunition on a trim budget of both funds and interior space. I hope for all equipment to fit in a backpack or duffel bag, just to make sure it doesn't take too much space.

I'm looking to start reloading from just about square one. All I have is the recently shot brass in a plastic bag in the same state as it left the cylinder. I've done some research, but I'm a complete newcomer to this scene. my budget is around $300, the approximate price of 400 rounds of bulk .38 Special ammo these days.

Casting is out of the question since I live in an apartment (thankfully with a firearm friendly roommate), but I'm willing to purchase bullets from 3rd parties or larger companies. Thankfully, I live not too far from a Sporting goods store so some smaller items of reloading equipment can be conceivably be obtained without having to deal with online wait times or shipping.

Here's a short list of Items that I think I need for all of this to happen;

A reloading manual for .38 Special or more handgun cartridges. (not planning on reloading anything else for some time, hopefully brand agnostic)

Hand press OR single stage press (I want something portable and cheap. Willing to deal with a slow process)

.38 Special press dies (Unsure which ones I need, could use some help with this.)

Reloading tray (the kind to arrange ammunition in progress of assembly)

Powder funnels

Kinetic cartridge separator (one of those hammer thingys)

electronic or mechanical scale (hopefully portable)

Primer press/extractor

Pistol primers/ .38 caliber handgun bullets

Am I missing anything here? Do you have any other resources handy that I can refer to to begin my hand-loading adventures? I'm only looking to load either SWC, LRN or FMJ with standard amount of oomph to them. I don't want to damage my revolver or hurt myself for obvious reasons. I'd Rather not pay extra for hollow-points or JHP.

If you have other tips regarding all of this, let me know as well.

Thank you!

right now lee precision has 1/2 was price on a scale and press. do a search for lee precision closeouts. get sa set of 38/357mag dies at the same time. buy a good reloading manual. the lee one is ok. but the Lyman 50th is probably the gold standard. bullseye is a powder that will work well for 38 spl. but there are many powders that will work. primers are very difficult to find right now but any small pistol primer will work. those lee closeout items will probably sell out quick might want to do that without delay. the lee ram prime is cheap and will work with that press and lee dies should come with shell holder and a powder scoop. zero bullets though roze distributors are plenty good bullets for about as cheap as they come. you don't need a kinetic separator right away. 38 spl brass should be easy to come by either buy previously shot or starline brass is about the best and the cheapest.
theres always more but this should get your on the right track

Thank you for the info!

Correct me if I'm wrong, but most .38 brass would not be deformed by firing, so extra die sets that re-shape cases would not be needed, correct? I was looking at the Lee .38 Special dies earlier on Midway USA and there seems to be some deals on there.

If I could get links to certain items or websites of those manufacturers, that would be lovely too.

yes resizing die in die set will reform the brass to correct size and punch out the old primer.
just checked for you and roze distributors currently has swaged 158 grain .358 bullets and previously fired 38 spl brass for real cheap cost.
keep in mind we are in the middle of a severe shortage of ammo and reloading stuff nationwide right now so a lot of times if you don't get something when you find it available you might not be able to get it.
im in no way affiliated with any of these places I mention. just trying to help you out

Welcome to the forum and reloading.

Here's a manual for you. It will explain the basic operations.

http://marvinstuart.com/firearm/Manu...%20-%20ocr.pdf

When I first started thinking about reloading, I went to my local library and checked out two books about reloading (not load data, just how to go about reloading) and read them both cover to cover before I bought a single piece of reloading equipment. I have not regretted that decision.

I would also say that .38 Special is a good choice for your first caliber.

If you are anything like me, you will spend too much time on the castboolit website learning from some of the most knowledgeable, generous people you will ever find anywhere!

Good luck and welcome aboard!

exile

The 10-5 is a good, sturdy gun. Mine shoots closest to the fixed sights with "full-charge" wadcutters using either the Remington 148-grain HBWC component bullets and 3.2 grains of Bullseye, 3.5 grains of 452AA or WST, or 4 grains of 231 or HP38 at 1.20" OAL. With cast double-end wadcutters similar to H&G #50 or Saeco #348 charges can be increased 0.2-0.3 grain, but doing so is not entirely necessary. These same charges are fine with common 158-grain SWC bullets at 1.40" OAL.

Hi there! I'm Joe.
I'm a last time gun loaner and first time gun owner! I've had my share of good firearm experiences and now I've purchased my first piece all my own: A Smith and Wesson Model 10-5 from approximately 1969, off of Gunbroker.com.

Attachment 267760

The finish is fairly beat up, but the internals are just great. Shot 36 rounds of PPU 130gr FMJ .38 Special through it no problem and collected all the brass. However, since I only have ONE box of .38 special with little to no chance to purchase a new box for any reasonable price, it seems to me that the best course of action is to figure out how to safely reload ammunition on a trim budget of both funds and interior space. I hope for all equipment to fit in a backpack or duffel bag, just to make sure it doesn't take too much space.

I'm looking to start reloading from just about square one. All I have is the recently shot brass in a plastic bag in the same state as it left the cylinder. I've done some research, but I'm a complete newcomer to this scene. my budget is around $300, the approximate price of 400 rounds of bulk .38 Special ammo these days.

Casting is out of the question since I live in an apartment (thankfully with a firearm friendly roommate), but I'm willing to purchase bullets from 3rd parties or larger companies. Thankfully, I live not too far from a Sporting goods store so some smaller items of reloading equipment can be conceivably be obtained without having to deal with online wait times or shipping.

Here's a short list of Items that I think I need for all of this to happen;

A reloading manual for .38 Special or more handgun cartridges. (not planning on reloading anything else for some time, hopefully brand agnostic) lyman 50th or lyman cast

Hand press OR single stage press (I want something portable and cheap. Willing to deal with a slow process) lee hand press

.38 Special press dies (Unsure which ones I need, could use some help with this.)lee 3 die set retails for around 30 bucks

Reloading tray (the kind to arrange ammunition in progress of assembly)block of wood with holes drilled to size

Powder funnels dollar store specials

Kinetic cartridge separator (one of those hammer thingys)

electronic or mechanical scale (hopefully portable)
Lee balance beamsafety scale
Primer press/extractor
ram prime Comes with lee hand press
Pistol primers/ .38 caliber handgun bullets

Am I missing anything here? Do you have any other resources handy that I can refer to to begin my hand-loading adventures? I'm only looking to load either SWC, LRN or FMJ with standard amount of oomph to them. I don't want to damage my revolver or hurt myself for obvious reasons. I'd Rather not pay extra for hollow-points or JHP.

If you have other tips regarding all of this, let me know as well.

Thank you

Congratulations Joe! You couldn't have picked a better handgun in a better caliber, to start your reloading hobby with.
And welcome to the most friendly firearms forum on the Internet. Semper Fi, Treetop

Congrats on joining the Fraternity.

Lee has some great stuff at learner prices.
But if I had to depend on one of their scales.
I'd give up reloading after 60yrs+.
You can skimp on some things but never a scale.
I have 2 beam scales; a Redding and a RCBS Magnetic Dampening scale. The Redding is almost as old as I am. The RCBS MODEL 10-10 has served Me for 44yrs without a hitch.
So please buy a Quality Magnetic Dampening scale. Take care of them and they last forever.

My lee is right on the money and ive owned it for many years now as far as i know all rcbs stuff made lately is chinese. If ya have doubts just use coins to proof a scale that is suspect

Thank you very much for the item recommendations!

Here's to .38 special being in stock sometime by the end of the year!

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Treetop

Congratulations Joe! You couldn't have picked a better handgun in a better caliber, to start your reloading hobby with.
And welcome to the most friendly firearms forum on the Internet. Semper Fi, Treetop

---

Here's a very important question:

Where exactly should I store powder in my place? I've got some shelf space but obviously I should keep it well away from food or ignition sources, or my clothing so that If I get swabbed at the airport they aren't going to give me the old TSA interview after detecting something out of place.

Also, I've got a fire extinguisher at home just in case things go sideways.

Here is the lee reloader press on sale
https://leeprecision.com/factory-sec...der-press.html


https://youtu.be/VNBlgCgmZPY

Get 38/357 carbide dies.

Three44s

Store powder in your box of reloading stuff. It doesn't require special treatment. Keep it away from heat and spark, but it's not going to burst into flames or blow up all the sudden. It's not an issue around food, but the dust from primers and the residue from firing will cause some lead poisoning. It won't drop you dead or nothin, just wash your hands when done touching your guns and ammo. Wipe the table off with spic and span before eating if you reload or clean your gun there.

Everyone has heard the comments about blowing yourself up and so forth. That's bunk. Reloading is perfectly safe if you follow some basic things in the manual and use common sense.

Don't get only the Lyman cast manual by the way, it doesn't explain the reloading process. It's to be an addition to the reloading manual. Loadbooks USA one book one caliber manual is a good edition to your main manual. I like the Lyman, 48/49/50-whichever. I currently have the 49th.

Welcome to the addiction.

The only thing I could add would be to swing by the big box store, and get a couple of sturdy, and decent size 'C' clamps.

I found the big ones work well to hold the press on your dining room table.:bigsmyl2:

To the OP, read the first few chapters of at least one reloading manual. The process isn’t difficult, but it takes a clear understanding to avoid dangerous mistakes.

Please add your location to your profile.

To everyone else, I’ve only once used a Lee Loader, but it seems like exactly the right tool for the OP. Less than $50 plus a pound of powder (bullseye), a brick of primers, and some cast or plated bullets and he’s got a good start. What do you think?

The nice thing about the lee loaders/lyman 310s and lee/Buchanan hand press is they are extremely portable and can be used while sitting around a campfire out in the wilderness

The lee loader I would recommend except you'll set a few primers off during seating. Probably wont be acceptable in an apartment setting.