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I'm itching to buy another mold for 44 mag, this time it will a mp hollow point mold but seek advice on which would be best for rifles and use in 444 marlin as well. Gas check or no gas check mold. I've shot plain base boolits to about probably almost 1600 fps (knock on wood) with no leading problems and good accuracy but now I'm wanting to put together full power 444 marlin loads.
I'd def. go with the gas check design, with the GC installed.
For that speed you need a gas check.
Definitely use the GC.
If you can get a mold that will also cast solid bullets without the hollow point, I think you will find they are better game bullets. Hollow point bullets at that speed will probably ruin a lot of meat.
I think differently. For the pistol and light loads for the .444 I would use a 4 cavity plain base bullet and start with that. I would try a PB gas check and see how it would perform at higher velocities. If the PB GC did not work out, i would get a second mold (maybe only a two cavity) for the .444 for a hunting bullet. But then I shoot many more light loads than full house loads.
Hi Don,
The OP said the bullets will be fired at 2000 fps, not light loads.
Take care, Tom
My 2¢Quote:
Originally Posted by farmbif
I'd use a GC style for Rifle ammo, to better achieve Rifle type shooting accuracy.
For all my pistol shooting, I'm not looking for Rifle type accuracy from my pistol, so a plain based boolit cast with a hard enough alloy does what I need, if I was loading some hot pistol ammo.
I vote for gas checks, definitely. They move cast into the next level of velocity range without having to adjust alloy.
Or paper patch. While not everyone's cup of tea, this an excellent alternative and there’s nothing to buy, since most everyone’s got paper. Notebook filler will do. There are tougher/better papers, but for a bit of experimenting, it’ll do just fine. No lead-to-steel contact, so velocities can go higher yet than with GC, not to mention widening the range of useable alloy hardness, from dead soft to hard. It’s tough to get past zero leading and a clean bore. See http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...20#post2668020, post 16.
PC is great stuff, but at 2000 fps you are at the breaking point. I'd get the GC mold. you can always use it without GC if you want. Some say the accuracy drops without a GC on a GC ready boolit, I haven't found that @ 100 yrds
Gc for that speed.
While I have exceeded 2,000fps with 357 max and plain base Hi-Tek coated cast I have found accuracy to be better with the larger bores at high velocity if I use gas checks so I also vote gas check Mould. Regards Stephen
I vote GC and PC at that velocity. I also agree...no need for HP at that velocity. It will be interesting to hear your results.
redhawk
I regularly shoot a plain based boolit designed for powder coating so no check, no lube groove. I'm getting 2250 fps from a 16" AR 15, and 2450 from a 24" single shot, also .223 Remington. I have shot warm loads in a 20" 45 Colt single shot, launching a 452-200 RNHP at 2000 fps, with PBGCs and just powder coating. As with anything, fit is king and the bore stayed shiny and bright.
Since switching to PC, I haven't made or used any gas checks, plain base or crimp on in 6 years. I made a bunch of checks I just haven't used any except for .308 and 300 BO. I think I cast, coated, checked, and sized about 20 pounds of the boolits so I'm set for a while.
In my Marlin 1894 in 44 mag I can push the Lyman 429421 to 1900 fps with no leading and great accuracy.
If your boolit is the right size it won't lead up the barrel. The snug fit of the boolit into the bore seals to prevent gases getting past the boolit.
I shoot them as cast, pan lubed or LLA. About the same. They come out of my mold about .432 or a bit bigger. I use COWW, they come out about 260 grs.
Air cooled or water dropped, both shoot well.
I think marlin uses the same barrel diameter for both the 44 and 444. Slug the bore and chamber. You may find the chamber is bigger than the bore. If so size the boolits to match the throat diameter.
Leo
A gas checked non hollow point of 50/50 would probably be a great killing boolit at 2000 fps. Out of a revolver perhaps the hp would be needed.
I shoot a .444 Marlin...always use GCs with it. My favorite bullet is a Lyman 429640 (w/o the HP)....I tried a dozen different cast bullets in it and the 640 is by far the most accurate. I make my own GCs using a Freechex tool. It paid for itself after quickly...I am sure glad I bought one while Charlie Darnell was still offering them.
now I'm just waiting on the mp 432640 gc, with the way the mail is going by the time it gets here weather will be cooler, hopefully, and I'll melt down a bunch more wheel weights into ingots. get the pasture mowed back down my range will be back in business.
If its anything over 1300 fps and i want accuracy i use a check. Even at slower velocitys they tend to shoot better but at 2k I wouldnt waste the powder trying to get accuacy out of plain based bullet. Yup someone here will no doubt say they did it. What they wont say is how many other attempts failed miserably. Its about like someone saying they get great accuracy out of full power 44mag bullets cast at 8bhn. Good luck with that. Maybe if hitting a coffee can at 15 yards is what you consider accurate. But at 2000 fps you need both a check and the hardest alloy you can whip up.
good advice. as I push up the velocity I'll try playing around with alloy, adding a couple strips of Lino into a pot of wheel weights with a bit of tin.
ive had good luck so far with just the straight wheel weights and tin but there are a couple cartridges I want to try pushing real fast the 444 is one and the 35 Whelen is the other.