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I been pondering on leaving lube on bullet bases vs wiping them clean. I generally wipe the bases of bullets with a rag wetted with a spritz of lighter fluid. Sometimes I don't if it's plinking ammo that I plan to shoot soon. I don't clean the bases of bullets that are tumble lubed.
So. I'm wondering, will the lube melt into the powder if it sets in the sun? Does the powder that sticks to the bases burn?
Thoughts,
Bazoo
My ammo is stored in the garage. In the summer, it gets pretty warm in there.
I quit leaving lube on the base after a few misfires with light powder loads, and ammo that was a few years old.
I figure with a large powder charge, there's enough powder to soak up any melted lube and not be noticed except on the target.
I think a light charge hasn't got much powder to give up before it only has enough for a 'pop' left to fire.
I should get with the program and powder coat, but for now- as they come out of the sizer, I wipe the base across a old towel.
I don't normally have many rounds loaded in storage. It's all stored in the house.
I wonder if it would be better to dip the bullet bases in a powder rather than wipe them clean. Maybe mica or graphite dust? Maybe not better but it would be easier and quicker thank a rag with solvent like I'm doing now.
I don't think lube will will migrate from the side of the bullet between the case wall.
I wear one brown jersey glove with the fingers cut off on the right hand. I pick out the bullet from the sizer and run the base across the palm of the glove.
Not a bad suggestion there alfadan, thanks.
I keep my boolits, and ammunition stored inside, so what lube gets on the bases from pan lubing or the lubrisizer I don't worry about. A little bit of ol NRA 50/50 on the base never hurt nothin.
I store my bullets inside also, but I shoot in the sun sometimes. A bag or box of bullets in 80 degree sunshine will get pretty warm.
Good question. I wonder if it would show as ES and in group size.
Yes, bigly. Also, if shooting black powder cartridges with a wad between bullet and powder, lube on the bullet base will cause the wad to stick to the bullet with unhappy results. If on pan lubes and uses a flat bottom pan, you won't have any lube on the bullet base.Quote:
Originally Posted by Neverhome
Reminds me of when I tried dipping 9mm bullets. For dipping I used something like one of those scented wax melter pots. The lube from the bottom of one bullet migrated to the top of the next bullet going through the sizer, then collected in the seating die, leaving the 100th round somewhat shorter than the first. Seemed less than optimal, so I worked up a fix. I took a small piece of steel strap, put a #6 screw and nut through it, and screwed it onto an old pencil type soldering iron. The soldering iron was then rested on the lip of the melter. After I dipped a bullet I'd just scrape the base of it across the hot steel strap and let the lube drip back into the pot, then I'd wipe the bottom of the bullet on a couple layers of denim wetted with mineral spirits. It worked great, but there was still the lube mess with the sizer. I surrendered and switched to PC.
You are correct, as you know, about a wad sticking to the base of a bullet in this case. I cheat and use, for the lack of a better term, a wad stack. I place a parchment paper wad directly over the vegetable fiber or LDPE wad. I've dug these 20/1 535 grain 45 caliber bullets out of the berm with the parchment paper still stuck on.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dan Cash
I agree it isn't fast, but I wipe bases when I lube my revolver bullets. It's rare that I use lube though as I do PC.
Wads sticking to the bullet bases ... that’s why Harry Pope cut felt wads from old hats. Felt burns completely a little over 400 degrees in the bore. A 1/8th lubed felt wad is my favorite
I have noticed big velocity spreads with loads like 10-14 grains of Unique in 45-70 type cartridges. Not sure if powder was contaminated by lube falling off-melted or I suspect stuck to the lube on the base. Ammo was shot within a couple days. I have never noticed this with anything else, any caliber, black or white powder. Generally I use 50/50 beeswax and low salt Crisco.
oh --worth mentioning, this is all rifle, long range stuff, like 200yards on out. I can't imagine anybody would ever see any impact in combat pistol craft.
Just use a lube sizer and be done with it
I am using a Lyman 450. It leaves a very thin film of lube on bases. If you take the freshly lubed bullet and touch the bottom to powder it will be covered.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sprue
I build up a pad with paper towel 5 layers thick. I drag the bullet base across this soft pad rolling the bullet to clean off the bevel base. I replace the top sheet when it’s well streaked with wiped off lube.
I would suspect that velocity spread is caused by the powder shifting position in the cartridge case.Quote:
Originally Posted by ascast
High MV with powder at the primer and MV reading lower with the powder shifted to the bullet base.
Carefully preform a powder position sensitivity test and see if your MV and ES tighten up.
I agree that powder position is the more likely cause.Quote:
Originally Posted by greenjoytj
As long as it aint a big glob if it is a light film it will be fine just dont want it to stick to the base. On my blackpowder rnds get lube cookies even front stuffers prolly not needed but i like grease :bigsmyl2: