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while inletting the barrel channel, i removed too much wood from one side. about 4 in. long. so, i cut a thin tapered sliver of walnut to fill it in. i used titebond III wood glue. with the bbl. action in the stock i slid the filler along side of the bbl. with the glue on it. after removing everything when dry. some glue was squezed out under the sliver and against the bbl. that area had no blueing on it. fortunately its below the stock wood.
A little cold blue and oil and no one will know...
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FWIW, I long ago learned not to leave a blued gun anywhere near (and definitely not touching) a wet/drying adhesive when I once laid a new 8-3/8" S&W Model 29 into the recess of a presentation case that I was re-lining.
The fumes were toxic, leaving the side of the gun that was lying atop the fabric with NO bluing. (I was devastated)
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Just to be on the safe side , I always coat my blued metal with Paste Wax whenever it is around Any Kind if Glue or Chemical.
I am working on a stock repair on a couple TC's.
One barrel is already blued , and one is in the white.
So far the paste wax has not only prevented the metal from getting Glued in , but has prevented the metal or Bluing from any discoloration.
Thank you for the PSA! That sounds terrible! Obviously if you were making a presentation case for it, it was probably a very nice gun. Not going to lie, I would have been sobbing! As a general rule I keep blued guns away from touching anything except an oiled rag or its storage vessel. I can see how easy it would be to accidentally had this happen with seemingly innocuous things.Quote:
Originally Posted by pietro
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Originally Posted by stubshaft
What they said!Quote:
Originally Posted by LAGS
i don't have any issues with the repair. i did use paste wax as a release agent. just passing on my "mistake"