I think I have a screw loose!

No, not above the neck!:roll:
On my Ruger Super Blackhawk in .44 mag.
After every shooting session, I'm finding the screws loose on my stainless SBH loose at least a quarter turn. I've tried (blue) thread locker and they are tight before shooting. My handloads are fairly mild compared to factory ammo (around 1000fps), as is recoil. This last shooting session, the pin that holds the rear sight on backed out over 1/4 inch and went back in with finger pressure. I emailed the factory and got very little response other than "use LocTite". Duh.
Is there a special requirement like LocTite primer needed for stainless? I've never seen any other guns do this. Last year, while shooting around 100 rounds, the ejector housing screw came completely out and parts flew everywhere. Fortunately it was an indoor range and I found all the pieces. Sure makes me nervous, though.

I have a SBH from 1964. I always had to check the screws for each shooting session. I had a screw shear off from once. I bought a set of replacement screws with nylon inserts and have had no futher trouble.

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Originally Posted by Drm50

I have a SBH from 1964. I always had to check the screws for each shooting session. I had a screw shear off from once. I bought a set of replacement screws with nylon inserts and have had no futher trouble.

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Where did you find the screw set, and are they available in SS?

I'm not sure but I think I bought them from Brownells. I'm sure they are avaiable in SS. In fact I think I have seen them in either torx or Allen style heads. Mine are standard slots and blue.

Thanks for that information!

Some of the heavier duty Ruger revolvers used to come with little nylon washers in place under the main screws. I don't know if they discontinued the practice, but perhaps they are present beneath the screws that aren't backing out. Anyway, you specifically mentioned the sight pin backing out, and the best solution for this problem is to replace it with a slightly larger diameter pin, as pins don't have threads and there's nothing for thread locker to grab onto. As for actual screws, it's pretty important to completely degrease the screw and the threads in the hole and let them dry thoroughly before applying the thread locker. Also, there are different brands of thread locker and one may work better for you. I recall a green one that worked well, but can't think of the name.

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Originally Posted by Der Gebirgsjager

I recall a green one that worked well, but can't think of the name.

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Green Loctite is "bearing and sleeve retainer". Can't be removed without heat.

Just got the New Redding/Saeco Catalog for 2020.

They are offering a new Product, a wax that is supposed to lock machine screws into place.

I bought a Grace screwdriver from John Kopec a loong time ago. Supposed to be for Colt gripframe/triggerguard screws. But it worked just as well for Ruger screws.
I always tightened the screws on My Colts and Ruger's before every Cowboy match.

Guess that screw loose problem is why Ruger puts Red Loctite on the long gripframe screw on their SingleActions.

Thread lock liquids dont work on stainless steel. Especially stainless fasteners and a stainless frame. Working in the boat buisness I learned that there is a special primer to dip your screws in, and a special loctite to react with the primer.

Basically threadlocker is designed for steel and to react with properties in rust. Since stainless doesnt rust...your up the creek. This was back in 2008, so it appears there are new products with different properties now. How old is your tube?

If it were me, id get a toothpick and the tube of rtv silicone from the garage and use the smallest dot on the screws. I know it isnt designed for this, but it does work..remember those boats? They had to have water tight compartments, so sealant had to be used on the fastener and in the hole. Its more servicable than any loctite.

I've had the rear sight pin back out before on several Blackhawks. What I have done to remedy this is; remove the pin, set it on an anvil, use a 3/32 punch to put a flat spot near the end (leaving the end round). When you install it put the unaltered end of the pin in first (from the right side) so that the peened end doesn't go through the sight.

As for the rear sight pin coming out of Rugers, I’ve fixed several by pushing them out about 1/3 to 1/2 their length, bending them slightly (down about an 1/8” or less) and then driving them back in with a nail set punch. Works great. They stay put.

I usually peen the end of a pin thats loosing or backing out. clamp them tightly in a vise with soft jaws ( even better is to put several layers of index card in the jaws and drill a blind hole short of pin depth). then lightly tap on the end of the pin with a light ball peen hammer checking as you go. Usually .003-.005 is enough increase. This way the pin expands and gives a slightly larger head.
In screws fit is everything. A paper washer may help to gold screws. Locktite can do fine but on threads with play or worn surfaces ( think large tolerances). Sometimes new screws help a lot with this. There is also vibra tite available this is a plastic like liquid locker that may work. Square head surfaces help a lot. a head that only contacts at one point isnt near as good. When a thread and shoulders are right when you spin it in by hand it goes thunk and locks to where you need a wrench to break it loose.
On the screws since loctite has failed I would try a thin plastic washer cut from a sandwich bag or similar

VibraTite.


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A short piece of monofilament fishing line wrapped around the screw's shank before it is installed will also keep it from unscrewing due to vibration. The RTV will also work a treat. We used to apply a drop of RTV to the many screws in the Gunners Primary Sight on the M1 Abrams when reassembling it for this very purpose.

I had the same issue with a Freedom Arms 44 Magnum. When I called FA about it, the gunsmith told me to either keep checking screw tightness everytime, or wrap a layer of teflon tape around the screws. I did ask about using Loctite and was told "No!". Anyway, it was only a minor PITA to wrap the screws as they are small and the tape had to be cut to fit the threads. It worked perfectly and though I occasionally check the tightness of all 5 screws, not one has ever loosened.

My shooting partner is a metal fabricator and welder by trade and questioned the advice from FA, but he has witnessed that the advice works over many many stout loads.

It's kinda wierd that the 44 loosened up and the 454 hasn't (though I check it too). I do check my RBH's after cleaning (357, 44 Mag, and 45 Colt all large frames) but they stay snug. FWIW, I keep spares of RBH screws, pins, etc etc and the screws all have a dab of yellow threadlocker painted on the threads.

Think I will try the teflon tape idea first. It's free and I already have it. I'll report back on this thread after I shoot with it.

Another easy way to get a locking screw is to take a piece of fishing line,,, insert the end into the hole, then follow it with the screw. The fishing line will "wrap" itself into the threads. Once the screw is tight, you can clip off the tail of line, and a match will melt any tiny piece left sticking out.
Inexpensive, easily removed if necessary,, and not permanent in any form.

I know you mention having tried blue loctite already. I use it on most screws and find its most important to mace sure screw and threaded hole are clean. Then I put the Blue L-T on the screws thread and run it in, half way out and all the way back in. Lastly I let it dry overnight. Seems to work pretty well for me even on the stainless guns. I haven't had issues with loose screws since I started using it.

The sight pin coming loose I do the "slight bend" fix too. Not too much bend, but a little will keep it from popping out.