New gun and a blast to shoot!
I'll get out and start load development on it, as soon as our howling winds stop!
https://i193.photobucket.com/albums/...psaxijyw2y.jpg
https://i193.photobucket.com/albums/...psulvrvwhp.jpg
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New gun and a blast to shoot!
I'll get out and start load development on it, as soon as our howling winds stop!
https://i193.photobucket.com/albums/...psaxijyw2y.jpg
https://i193.photobucket.com/albums/...psulvrvwhp.jpg
Did this begin life as a "baby rolling block" ?
Sharp and fun lookin rifle
Great caliber!!!
I got a lil excited thinking I missed a new release!!
CW
I never thought I'd see a ported, picatinnied, holographed rolling block. But there it is. Why is the barrel two toned? Is it a stub job?
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In the condition I received this gun in,
both the chamber and bore were beyond repair, so rechambering was NOT an option! So I decided to turn it into something useful.
Now, as a 357 Maximum and some 190 gr. powder coated cast Boolits, it gets to start a brand new life, and from what I am seeing so far, this is going to make for one awesome little deer rifle!
So the muzzle brake looks like an integral portion of the barrel ... yes?
What twist rate?
Did you do any trigger work?
I betcha that little bugger is nice n lite and well ballanced. Nice job.
I would love details on the stub method. Does the scope mount boss serve as a barrel nut? I like it too- except the earschplitten loudenboomer thingy....[emoji16]
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IMHO the only next gun I'd like to get (dream on) is a modern roller or falling block in 357max or 300AC/variant. Extend the receiver and an I-beam in the forearm to free float the barrel. Fun single shot (hate break action rifles) with better than 32/20 or 357 mag performance. I guess a #1 in 30/30 would be fun too but kinda overkill for most purposes.
The muzzle brake is screwed onto the barrel, just like this one is:
https://i193.photobucket.com/albums/...photos/014.jpg
Twist rate is 1-16"
I did and it is 3 pounds 2 oz..
Well balanced -yes! Nice and light - I have a fully decked out Remington 700 that weighs less!
Thank you bigted!
the blued portion of barrel above the forend is the "stub" and was bored out to accept the stainless barrel, and the stainless barrel runs the full length of the stub and butts up against the locked breech face.
There is no barrel nut.
A Ruger #1 or #3 can be had in 357 Maximum or even a rimmed version of the 300 Blackout.
I have a Ruger #1 switch barrel gun in 30-30 Ackley Improved, and using 375 Winchester brass, it will match the ballistics of the 308 Winchester with bullet weights up to 155 grains.
Great work! Seeing some of your other stubs on a thread a couple of years back helped push me over the edge to do a couple myself. I'm toying in my mind with a 50-70 or .577 Snider from a Yildiz 12 gauge folder at present. Thanks for sharing.
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Be mindful of the cartridge pressures and what the case head thrust will be against the standing breech face.
Does the receiver have a big fat rounded shotgun firing pin or the smaller rifle firing pin?
Is the lock-up strong enough?
Is the breech face strong enough and what type of medal is it made out of?
With heavy loads, or even moderate loads, will the receiver have any flex to it?
How solid is the fit at the hinge area?
How is the lug welded onto the barrel, and what is the strength limitation in that area?
Is the receiver "hard" or "soft"? Meaning, is it hard enough to break or crack, or will it be soft enough to take a couple of rounds, then you have a barrel to frame gap that you can stick a dime in?
Please understand that I mean absolutely no disrespect to you in asking these questions. I do this for a living and have for well over 30 years, and I have learned what will and what won't work with most firearms, and I do not want to see anyone get hurt or killed, and sadly enough, I have seen it both ways in my time, and up close and personal! NOT from my work, but from things other guys did, not knowing what the consequences of their actions would be.
I said all of that to just say this - BE CAREFUL!
No offense taken. The reason I've considered the 1860's era cartridges is the very low chamber pressure spread out over a large cartridge head. The Yildiz is brand new, small firing pin, steel breech face insert in a the alloy frame. The hinge pin is substantial as well. I would be loading blackpowder only as well. If I go ahead with it I'll be PMing you along the way if ok.
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That will be fine!
https://tippmannarmory.com/shop-all/
357mag 27" barrel - 9#, 900$. That is heavy. Receiver only 400$. Invest. cast 1018 steel. Don't know how the fore-end is held on, no barrel bands.
A Ruger #1 or #3 can be had in 357 Maximum or even a rimmed version of the 300 Blackout.
Where?
Ruger offers or use to offer their #1 and #3 in 357 magnum, and a simple rechamber job will turn them into a a 357 Maximum!
Any of the break open single shot rifles, as well as the two guns mentioned above, chambered in 300 Blackout or 300 Whisper, just need a rim counterbore cut for the use of 357 magnum brass. Or use 360 Dan Wesson brass and not lose anything in neck length. Rimmed or rimless, they all use the same reloading dies and load data.
Rimmed or rimless, once a rim counterbore is cut, it can be used interchangeably in the same gun with no other changes.
https://i193.photobucket.com/albums/...hisper/001.jpg
https://i193.photobucket.com/albums/...hisper/010.jpg
https://i193.photobucket.com/albums/...Rimmed/001.jpg
https://i193.photobucket.com/albums/...Rimmed/006.jpg
https://i193.photobucket.com/albums/...Rimmed/016.jpg